C50 Valve Adjustment

[TaterDog]

Other than listening for tapping, are there any other indications whether my valves are adjusted properly? I've got a little over 4,500 miles on my bike, and my valves were adjusted at 600 miles. Don't know if I need to have it checked now or again at 7,500 miles. Any thoughts?

[Jerryzuki]

This might not be the best advice ever but I had mine checked at around 3000 miles (I think). They were all fine and I now have something like 10,800 and haven't had them checked again. I plan on having them checked this winter sometime. I’m of the opinion that "if they checked fine at some point, they will not tighten up on their on". If anything they will loosen or wear and I would hear a tic or rattle. But that’s just my line of thought.

[Colorado Cajun]

My guess is you are probably okay. A tight valve is worse then a loose valve from what I hear. I know they can loosen up but I don't know if they can tighten up on their own. Try sendins a PM to Volusia. He knows about these types of things.

[Rocken]

I can't see paying someone to do it every 7500, 14500 it was bad enouf at 600 miles. How mouch did you pay for yours? I put out $230...

[Colorado Cajun]

I think I payed $125, that was just to check the valves.

[92Notch]

I just recieved my service manual and vlave adjust tool yesterday (along with oil, oil filters and the filter wrench ), I plan to do mine soon, I have ~7300 miles on the bike right now. The service manual is well written, its a good book IMO (i was looking through it last night)

[TaterDog]

I think I paid about $125 for my 600 mile service which included valve adjustment. I've got a service manual, but I've heard that it's more difficult than it looks due to space requirements. I'd be interested to see how it goes for you, 92notch.

Based on what you've all said, I'll probably wait a while before having it checked (or doing it myself). I haven't noticed any problems, so assume I'm okay. By the time winter hits I should be close to 7000 miles, so that may be a good time to check.

[dragbar]

if they actually opened up your valve covers and physically checked (vs. listening with scope) for $125 I'm driving to your dealership.

[Rocken]

Dragbar I so love your new helment. what was the link to it?

[TaterDog]

Originally Posted by dragbar

if they actually opened up your valve covers and physically checked (vs. listening with scope) for $125 I'm driving to your dealership.

Dunno what they did, but I did notice a difference after. Valves had been really noisy before, but only light tapping after, so I figured they must have done something. Now whether or not they changed the oil, etc., . . .

[92Notch]

I've got 7600+ miles on her right now ... I plan to try the adjustment the weekend after laborday at the earliest. I'll post my results .... i still need to get an off-set thickness gauge (like this one). i figure stuff will be tight in there .... hopefully I do not need any other special tools ... thankfully, there's a harborfreight about 4miles from me if i need some offset wrenches or something (thier hand tools are all lifetime warrenty now )

[Colorado Cajun]

Originally Posted by dragbar

if they actually opened up your valve covers and physically checked (vs. listening with scope) for $125 I'm driving to your dealership.

I showed up to the shop to pick up my bike and I entered through the service door. You can see into the shop through glass and the tech had the rear end of the gas tank proped up and was putting the valve cover back on when I walked in.

[TaterDog]

Originally Posted by 92Notch

I've got 7600+ miles on her right now ... I plan to try the adjustment the weekend after laborday at the earliest. I'll post my results .... i still need to get an off-set thickness gauge (like this one). i figure stuff will be tight in there .... hopefully I do not need any other special tools ... thankfully, there's a harborfreight about 4miles from me if i need some offset wrenches or something (thier hand tools are all lifetime warrenty now )

Good info. If this works okay for you, I'll do the same.

[v0lusia]

Here is some good info (slightly different on the C50 but close enough)
http://www.therusks.com/HowTos/Volus...0Procedure.pdf

Also
JPaige from VolusiaRiders.com posted this....
Throw away the feeler gages, back off 1/8 turn for intakes, 1/4 turn for exhausts.

If you do the math, you convert the pitch of the screw into degrees of rotation.

.75mm pitch = .02952756" per revolution = .000082" per degree
intake .003" to .005" = 36-60 degrees (call it 45)
exhaust .007" to .009" = 85-109 degrees (call it 90)

Sooo, to achieve the clearance for the intake valve, loosen the lock nut, screw the tappet down until it touches the top of the valve, and then back it off 45 degrees (1/8 turn) Same thing for the exhaust, back off 90 degrees (1/4 turn)

[TaterDog]

Probably a good approach, given how much little space there is to use the feelers. Thanks for the info.

[92Notch]

I used the directions posted above (http://www.therusks.com/HowTos/Volus...0Procedure.pdf), worked like a charm. It is a %%%%% getting to the rear cylinder valve cover bolts/nut, next time I may remove the little pipe that runs from the rubber hose, over the cylinder, and bolts to the side of the rear cylinder. I could not remove the valve covers with my tools, I headed to harborfreight and bought these Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices (offset box wrench), could not have done the job w/o them. Also, make sure you have an allen set that goes up to 10mm, you'll need a 10mm allen. Do not buy the feeler gauge I listed above, get a normal one and bend them per the instructions, make sure they have .004 and .008. I used the Suzuki special tool to adjust the valves; the redneck tool described in the instructions would have worked fine ... probably even better then the official tool on the real exhaust valves. It takes some dexterity in the fingers to get to all the stuff... also, I changed the spark plugs since I needed to pull them anyways. ... welp, I got my oil draining right now, wanted to post while it was fresh in my mind. Reserve a full day to do it the first time. I'll do it again myself the next time its due ... at 11,000, 14,000 or whatever the book says

[TaterDog]

Thanks, 92Notch, I was hoping you would post soon with an update. One question -- how much adjustment did you have to make? Were they too loose or too tight?

[92Notch]

Originally Posted by TaterDog

Thanks, 92Notch, I was hoping you would post soon with an update. One question -- how much adjustment did you have to make? Were they too loose or too tight?

don't know ... I just loosened up the lock nut, then backed the little screw out a few turns with my fingers... until it was real easy to get the gauge in there, then screwed it back down until it pinched the feeler gauge, then back it off and played with it until it was just right. ... the bike sounds the same to me, i hear no more or no less valve ticking.... that was just putting my ear there, I did not use a scope.

[DaveMc]

I did my valves for the first time today, at 3459 miles. I was not convinced I was getting a good read from the feeler guage since it was a at such a wierd angle and was also rubbing against the rocker. So I used the "math" method described above. I think my exhaust valves were a little too tight before I did it (just based on feel). Anyway, I only had a real problem getting one valve cover bolt off, the one on the front exhust, the bolt on the inside (nearest the centerline of the bike). I had to remove the radiator to be able to get my wrench in there. The wrench would reach with the radiator on, but not with enough room to loosen the bolt. Someone else on the board recently said it helps a lot to remove the rubber snorkel that runs from the side intake into the fuel injection assembly. Amen that.

Took her for a test ride after everything was bolted back together. I cannot tell a big difference in how she runs; I think maybe C50Ts just have noisy valve trains (given where they are on the engine, etc.). But I feel good knowing I did it and the whole experience boosted my confidence level for future mechanical work. Next time I'll use the special Suzuki tool; should make holding the adjuster in place easier.

[DaveMc]

Some more info:

I saw this at another site. A guy wrote in saying the dealer did not do a valve adjustment at 600 miles and said it was not necessary and really only get out of whack when the bike has been run too hard.

The response is by Mark Zimmerman, author of The Essential Guide to Motorcycle Maintenance. On valve adjustments he said:

"This is always a controversial issue. Most manufactures spec valve adjustment/ inspection intervals that tend to be on the conservative side, they do this to protect themselves from warranty issues. Most dealers have a pretty good feel for what's going on, so in this case I'd trust their judgment. As an aside, many manufactures have increased their inspection intervals after the bike has been on the market awhile and some sort of service history established. Since your letter writer mentions no running problems I think he/she is good to go. BTW, typically a tight valve creates hard starting, poor idling, back firing and low power, and eventually lost compression. If the guy is really worried, I'd suggest he take the bike in and have the valves checked, but the bottom line is that the valves are unlikely to need any attention. Last thought, last year my race engine, a 600cc Rotax went the whole season without a single valve adjustment, although I do check them every 4th race. Take care, – Mark "

from: Motorcycle Maintenance, Repair, Changes: General

At least it confirmed a suspicion of mine.