? battery problem or something else

[mrlmd]

I'm new to riding, recently bought a 1999 GZ250 hardly used (with 2914 miles on it), as a starter bike, from a mechanic I know who was storing the bike for 2 years. He put a new battery in it before I bought it (from Battery Source, a 7L-BS sealed 12V 6Amp). The bike started instantly and ran great, but the battery would be dead in a few days needing to be recharged to get the bike to start. When I bought the bike, the same thing happened - if I could start it after recharging the battery it ran great, and after riding for 20 miles, if I shut it off, the battery would be half dead and not have enough juice to turn the starter fast enough to start it, or you'd hear the clicking and the starter would not have enough juice to turn. I returned the battery thinking it was defective and the guy in the store agreed after he put it on a load tester and I got a replacement. The same thing happened - the first time I used it the bike would start and run well and then it if was shut off, the battery acted as if it was dead and hadn't enough juice to turn over the starter. The headlight goes on when the key is in the on position, and the battery voltage would drop to 8.5-9V even before hitting the start switch. I recharged this battery multiple times and eventually brought it back for another replacement, being on the 3rd battery now. I've cleaned thoroughly all the connections I can see on the battery and starter, I can't see any frayed wires anywhere, I don't leave the rear parking light on. and there's no open circuits anywhere with the key in the off position. The bike will start instantly from a portable battery pack but not from this battery. The guy in the battery store says the batteries are working fine after testing them. It's hard to believe that 3 new batteries could be defective, but I can't find anything obvious wrong with the bike. I know the bike only puts out the equivalent of a trickle charge when it's running, but is this the right size battery to use even though that's what's reccommended? Is this battery I'm getting not large enough, is anyone using a larger capacity battery? Or is the problem somewhere in my bike I'm overlooking? Any suggestions would be appreciated, Thanks.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by mrlmd

The guy in the battery store says the batteries are working fine after testing them.

Any suggestions would be appreciated, Thanks.

The charging system in your bike is not working...........or else you are "chugging" around, staying at low RPMs all the time or spending more time stopped in traffic than actually riding.

The guy at the battery shop should have offered to test your BIKE in addition to the battery(s).

You are probably gonna need the assistance of a Zuki shop........at least for a test.

I have an '06. There isn't much extra capacity in them little batteries.......and no space for anything bigger. Even if everything is working correctly, if you accidentally run it down, it takes an external charge or a LOT of riding to charge it back up. I replaced one that I didn't really need to.

P.S. and please fill out your profile.

[DrBob]

Yup, bad charging system- the bike is running off the battery instead of the charging system. Most likely the rectifier, part number 32800-29B00, about $110. But it is possible that it is just a loose or bad connector, or a bad stator, so check (or have checked) before buying a rectifier.

[mrlmd]

With the bike running at mid range rpm I measure 13.5-13.8 V across the battery terminals, so isn't the charging system working? This bike is like brand new and has very little use, what could be wrong other than a dirty connection somewhere and where's the best place to start looking besides the battery terminals and starter connection on the lower right hand side.
Even if I charge up the battery on an external charger to 100%, it still will not crank the engine over fast or long enough for it to start.

[DrBob]

Hmmm...which is it? Your first post says the bike starts fine with a freshly charged battery or jump start but goes dead after a 20 minute ride, now you say it does not start at all with a fully charged battery. The first symptom indicates a problem with the charging system, the second indicates a problem with the starting system. Please clarify the symptoms.

[mrlmd]

It will start immediately with an external jump start (larger) battery. It usually will not start with the fully charged 7L-BS's I put in, for the 3rd replacement. Even after I have charged these up to 13.3-5 V and an indicator of "100%" on my charger, these batteries don't have enough capacity to turn over the starter fast or long enough to start the bike. That's why I'm trying to find a dirty connection or current leak somewhere or thinking maybe these batteries are too cheap (~$60) or poorly made to put out their advertised rating. Can I have a short or current leak in the ignition switch when it's turned on, or a short or current leak in the headlight assembly when the switch is turned on, draining the battery or diverting current from the starter?

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by mrlmd

It usually will not start with the fully charged 7L-BS's I put in, for the 3rd replacement.

these batteries don't have enough capacity to turn over the starter fast or long enough to start the bike.

thinking maybe these batteries are too cheap (~$60) or poorly made to put out their advertised rating.

I think the key word in your first sentence above is USUALLY.

You have a single cylinder engine with a transistorized ignition AND a small battery. What this means is the ignition is pretty robust and it will fire on the first revolution and that's usually all it takes. It doesn't NEED to turn very fast and WON'T turn very long.

A couple of thoughts........from having a bike like yours and going through a dead battery:

1) Put in a new plug, properly gapped. Never mind if the one in there is (or looks) new. Plugs are cheap and when you have only ONE, very important!!

2) Pay attention to good choke technique. On mine, if the bike is cold and the temp is above 60F, then I only need about 1/3 choke to fire on the first or second rev. Colder than that, slightly more choke. If the bike is still at all warm from riding (or it is VERY hot outside), then NO choke.

3) With the battery out (for safety), loosen, clean and re-tighten the connections at the OTHER END of the main battery cables.

4) Bite the bullet and get the recommended sealed battery. About $85-90 but that might be the whole problem, although I really think it's not likely.

From the readings and symptoms you have quoted, it doesn't appear that there is anything wrong with the charging system or the starter.........but remember what I said about riding slow most of the time or sitting in traffic a lot; that won't keep the battery charged.

Now for the bad news:
If the above doesn't solve the problem, you might have to visit a dealer. With a bike that old and so few miles, your problem might really be a gummed up carb. instead of electrical.

[mrlmd]

I've done everything else but the idea of a new plug is a good one - maybe then it'll light up and fire off quicker and not have to crank as much. What is the gap of the plug (the owner's manual recommends an NGK DR8EA size plug)?

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by mrlmd

I've done everything else but the idea of a new plug is a good one - maybe then it'll light up and fire off quicker and not have to crank as much. What is the gap of the plug (the owner's manual recommends an NGK DR8EA size plug)?

Forget that. See my reply in the OTHER Forum where you started a thread today.

And now I have egg on my face because............

Originally Posted by mrlmd

The headlight goes on when the key is in the on position, and the battery voltage would drop to 8.5-9V even before hitting the start switch.

......this was in your FIRST post and I missed it.

My appologies for being sarchastic in the other thread.

( but your "mechanic" should have picked up on this right away).