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Sportbikes & Sport-tourers Got a supersport, sport-tourer or streetbike? If you prefer the twisties to the open road, this is the place to talk about it!

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Old 07-25-2005, 01:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
U.B's LoveChild
 
jaydog19833's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Bike: 04 GSXR 600
Location: Lake George, NY
Posts: 1,288
Default Maintenance: Noobs or not

So I had today off. Time to service the bike. Many riders don't always clean much other than the plastic of the bike. I went through a full maintenance check and despite my lack of pictures I hope this helps some of you remember what to do and check for.

So for starters I did the traditional oil change. I don't think I need to elaborate much on this topic but if anyone needs help I'll let you know.

Next came removing the side fairings and cleaning off all the excess road debris and chain lube that LOVES to collect on the inner fairing. Removing the fairings also gives you more accessibility to the motor obviously.....but I'll get to that in a moment.

Since the bike was warm I also did a normal scrubbing of my chain. Every 250 miles or so I clean mine off with some good ol' WD40 and a clean rag. Once the chain and sprocket are shining like new I apply some Chainwax or Black Label chain lube. For those of you noobies; always do this when the chain is warm and make sure you don't saturate the chain with lube otherwise your bike will be COVERED in excess lube that flies off once you start moving. I usually apply the lube liberally then hold a clean rag over the chain and pull the rear wheel one full rotation to clean off the excess.

Next came the removal of the seats.....partially to clean off dirt and grime that accumulates under the padding but most importantly to be able to lift up the gas tank.

To raise the gas tank on my bike; all you have to do is remove the driver seat and 2 allen bolts just below your handlebars. Once there the tank simply pivots upward. Under the passenger seat there is a support rod used to suspend the gas tank while you work underneath. Directly under the tank there is the air filter (box). After removing about 9 phillips screws or so you can remove the plastic cover which exposes your air filter. Make sure when you do this you do not leave the cover off for too long. Dust and whatever else in the air can go DIRECTLY into your motor; so do this carefully. After removing the air filter I blew off extra dust and collections on the filter....with a little bit of picking too. Now I know for sure the filter is in good condition so I replaced the plastic cover on the air box.

Next came the removal of the entire air box in order to reach my spark plugs. This is relatively easy but may seem a little thretening to you newer users. (I'm sure this is described better in the manual). You need to loosen 2 hose clamps that wrap around the cylinders and remove 3 hoses. On the top of the airbox there is 2 bolts which are easlity removed also. Once here you see the 4 holes where the spark plugs rest. Using the tool provided in my tool kit I removed the plugs gently and inspected each one closely. Some had a little bit of carbon deposit which I gently cleaned off with a needle. Next each plug was measured with a feeler wrench. Your tool kit does not inlcude this tool but they only cost about 3 dollars at any auto store. Each motorcycle may have a different setting but mine calls for .8 or .9 mm of clearance between the plug gaps. Only one was not correct by about .1 mm so I corrected it by ligtly banging the top of the plug on a countertop and measuring it again. I then replaced the spark plugs. When returning the spark plugs make sure not to overtighten them or be rough with them. They are made of ceramic or porcelain (not really sure which) but are brittle so make sure not to break them or you are in a world of trouble. Next came the replacement of the airbox and gas tank; obviously backtracking.

Now came the checking of the brakes. I started with the rear. All you need to do is remove 2 bolts and the rear brake falls off. I checked my brake pad and it was in fine condition. After seeing this I also cleaned off the calipers to rid of any brake dust and road debris. Just remember never to press the rear brake pedal otherwise getting the brakes to disengage is a wonderful problem which may result in you bleeding all your brake fluid.

Front brakes were the same. Just remove 2 allen bolts on this one and the brake is ready for inspection. My fronts were significantly more worn but still in good shape. I just cleaned them and returned them. Again....do not press your brake lever when the brakes are off the rotors.

Last came the most fun job of all.......checking as many screws, bolts and allen bolts to make sure everything is tight. Good reminder; check your clutch lever pivot. Mine was coming loose! Also it wouldn't hurt to clean off any gunk or dust stuck in random places throughout your motor. And last (this is easier to just read from the manual) but grease all the locations that require regular lubrication. There are caps on the clutch lever, shifter, throttle and all the brakes. I use a grease gun that is also found at any neighborhood store with the specified brand listed in your manual.

And now the fun part.....putting the bike all back together and cleaning off all your greasy fingerprints. I don't think anyone will need a tutorial on how to clean plastic and rims.

And here she is: Almost 12,000 miles on her and she runs clean and new. Just a normal day off for me and I hope you guys do the same riding on the machine you lay your life on every day!