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Roadliner No Yamaha didn't make something to keep roads clean, it's a Motorcycle.

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Old 03-20-2008, 11:02 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Sorry willie, didn't mean to start an argument, but I guess everyone is entitled to their opinion.

That's what these forums are about, Right?
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Old 03-24-2008, 11:14 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Sorry willie, didn't mean to start an argument, but I guess everyone is entitled to their opinion.

That's what these forums are about, Right?
Your setup is similar to mine, I just don't have the BAK. I just reread the instructions, and the cobra instructions definitely say to leave off the oxygen sensor. I first put on the speedsters, and then a few days later added the Fi2000R. The bike definitely backfired more until I put on the Fi2000R. It is better now, but still does on occasion. I am going to order the BAK. Does anyone have my similar setup and want to share the pots settings on their Fi2000R?

2006 Stratoliner S.
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Old 03-24-2008, 12:34 PM   #43 (permalink)
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This may not apply..... but on 4 cylinder cars (SRT4 Neon Turbo) when we put on free flow exhausts and catless down pipes we have to use a sparkplug anti fouler screwed into the 02 bung/port on the exhaust and then the 02 sensor is screwed in to avoid lean codes (backfire). You may be able to try this on the "Liner". Auto zone sells the anti foulers in different sizes for about 5.00 pr.
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Old 03-24-2008, 01:12 PM   #44 (permalink)
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The stock processor does not get physically changed by adding a processor. If you remove the add on processor. The bike returns to the original setup. Adding the piggyback processor changes the controls of the first processor. The presents of the O2 sensor causes the processor to look at the gas to air ratio in the exhaust pipe. In doing this the fuel ratio is forced to be controlled by the O2 sensor and not the new processor. You don't want this. Very little change takes place as long as the CO sensor is in use. The motor will or could improve some, but you will not get the real benefit of the processor as long as the O2 sensor is still in line. As said earlier It's your bike. Do as you like.

Willie
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Old 03-24-2008, 02:19 PM   #45 (permalink)
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The stock processor does not get physically changed by adding a processor. If you remove the add on processor. The bike returns to the original setup. Adding the piggyback processor changes the controls of the first processor. The presents of the O2 sensor causes the processor to look at the gas to air ratio in the exhaust pipe. In doing this the fuel ratio is forced to be controlled by the O2 sensor and not the new processor. You don't want this. Very little change takes place as long as the CO sensor is in use. The motor will or could improve some, but you will not get the real benefit of the processor as long as the O2 sensor is still in line. As said earlier It's your bike. Do as you like.

Willie
Makes sense to me. I bought the Fi2000R with the cobra pipes, but now think maybe I should have gotten the PCIII, since so many downloadable maps to try. I think, though, I will get the BAK and then take my bike to the dyno and have the Fi2000R tuned.
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Old 03-24-2008, 02:48 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Quote:
The presents of the O2 sensor causes the processor to look at the gas to air ratio in the exhaust pipe. In doing this the fuel ratio is forced to be controlled by the O2 sensor and not the new processor. You don't want this. Very little change takes place as long as the CO sensor is in use. The motor will or could improve some, but you will not get the real benefit of the processor as long as the O2 sensor is still in line.
Thats why we relocate the sensor on the 4 bangers about an inch away from the main exhaust flow with the sparkplug anti fouler. You still have the computer see the sensor, but it just gets "fooled" in simple terms. No codes, and no backfire.
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Old 03-24-2008, 05:37 PM   #47 (permalink)
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MY O2 sensor is gone and The only time I have any barking, is when I first start the bike when it's cold and lean. As soon as its warmed up a little its SMOOOOOOOTH. Love it. Wouldn't have it any other way.

BILL
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Old 03-27-2008, 09:42 AM   #48 (permalink)
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MY O2 sensor is gone and The only time I have any barking, is when I first start the bike when it's cold and lean. As soon as its warmed up a little its SMOOOOOOOTH. Love it. Wouldn't have it any other way.

BILL
Which fuel management addon are you using?
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Old 03-28-2008, 08:22 AM   #49 (permalink)
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I have the Power commander lll with the P.A.K.. I gained 11 Hp. The other thing I like is the synthetic oil. It lowers the oil temp 40 degrees and I gained 2 FP. of torque. But don't change the oil before 800 miles minimum. It will ruin the clutch.

Willie
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Old 03-31-2008, 10:40 AM   #50 (permalink)
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I have the Power commander lll with the P.A.K.. I gained 11 Hp. The other thing I like is the synthetic oil. It lowers the oil temp 40 degrees and I gained 2 FP. of torque. But don't change the oil before 800 miles minimum. It will ruin the clutch.

Willie
Thanks for the tip, just crossing 300 miles.
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Old 04-07-2008, 03:10 AM   #51 (permalink)
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Well, I finally got the patrick racing BAK in. So I installed it, and I already had the cobra speedster longs, and the Fi2000R installed. Runs great, but occasionally pops. Installed the air kit, and now it almost never pops. Even when cold. I even got it up to 4k in second, and then completely let off the throttle several times, no popping. This would have caused a pop before. Then it warmed up, and I can't believe the power this thing has, it was already amazing. But now is smoother, throatier and def a power increase. I wasn't going for power, just wanted it to run well after pipes. It runs great. I think I am going to try to get it on the dyno next week somewhere. BTW, the Fi2000R is stock, no adjustments.

[crossposted from other thread, but felt like I should post this here.]
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Old 04-09-2008, 08:41 PM   #52 (permalink)
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I have an 07 Roadliner S with the yamaha drag pipes. It backfires on deaccel frequently. Dealer has been trying to fix and in contact with factory. They have checked for exhaust leaks, changed the air/gas mixture via on board computer, tried using a power commander, put in hotter plugs...still backfires. Any suggestions or anyone with similar problem.
thx
This is going in a whole new direction. Can't find the answer? You may what to consider this. I had a lot of backfiring with my V-Star 1100 that had hardchrome pipes. After a value lash adjustment I had only the odd pop here and there. The values were tight, which could leave them open a bit getting fuel into the pipes.
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Old 04-10-2008, 10:01 AM   #53 (permalink)
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I'm runnin' the PR BAK,PCIII,& D&D slip on.
I used FX's map for PR BAK,Roadhouse slip on.
It runs great.
I don't have access to a dyno and the $ for one.
The mileage is about the same.

JJ
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Old 04-24-2008, 07:34 AM   #54 (permalink)
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Default roadliner backfire on decel

just a little thing i have done and it works incredibly well, the engines compression ratio is only 9.5:1 therefore it doesn't support a high octane fuel burn. the higher the octane the colder the fuel is when it enters the combustion chamber if there is not enough compression to support a complete burn of the fuel, there is remaining fuel in the cylinders after combustion occurs and the exhaust valve is not open long enough to scavenge the cylinder completely. i know the owners manual says to burn 92 or higher octane but try this it works for mine. instead of filling the tank with 92 octane blend your fuel 3 gallons 92, 1 gallon of 87 and see what happens if you get a spark knock reduce the amount of 87 and increase the amount of 92 or simply just try a tank of 89 octane. i hope this helps let me know if it works for you.

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Old 04-24-2008, 12:08 PM   #55 (permalink)
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just a little thing i have done and it works incredibly well, the engines compression ratio is only 9.5:1 therefore it doesn't support a high octane fuel burn. the higher the octane the colder the fuel is when it enters the combustion chamber if there is not enough compression to support a complete burn of the fuel, there is remaining fuel in the cylinders after combustion occurs and the exhaust valve is not open long enough to scavenge the cylinder completely. i know the owners manual says to burn 92 or higher octane but try this it works for mine. instead of filling the tank with 92 octane blend your fuel 3 gallons 92, 1 gallon of 87 and see what happens if you get a spark knock reduce the amount of 87 and increase the amount of 92 or simply just try a tank of 89 octane. i hope this helps let me know if it works for you.
For what its worth. I'm still running stock with 2500 miles on the bike. I've only used 91 octane up to this past weekend. Our town has 1 service station that deals in high octane fuel. I decided to try the 104 octane. It popped quite abit until it warmed up.
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Old 05-13-2008, 11:49 PM   #56 (permalink)
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I to have some popping and backfire at times. I also have the 3" hard krome longs with stock cpu. I'm hoping the power commander will take some of it out and improve performance as well. (not like it needs it) More power is always better ...right! .. Figure I'll just save and get the air box kit and tuner at the same time..
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Old 05-24-2008, 09:51 PM   #57 (permalink)
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The popping all report on closed throttle deceleration is either from: 1. An air leak at the head or within the pipe allowing air to be drawn into the pipe and exposed to unburned combustion gasses, or, 2. Most likely a lean running condition at closed throttle (idle mixture setting) on deceleration set by the onboard computer to reduce emissions.

A lean or rich fuel/air mixture is slow burning compared with an ideal one, and at closed throttle on deceleration the burning air/fuel will still be cooking when the exhaust valve opens...plus to add problems any free oxygen in the exhaust pipe from either a leak or reversion flow will cause more burning and noise.

The fix is simple...Make a richer closed throttle mixture from about 1000 to 2500 rpms by adding a fuel controller such as Cobra or better yet PCIII, and seal all potential sites for exhaust leaks at the head/header connection and pipe joints with high temp silicone seal such as Permatex Ultra-Copper.

Open drag pipes will still have some reversion flow from the pipe outlet to the head when used without a baffle...the Yamaha Speedstar have a built in anti-reversion cone to slow the wave, but they still will pop at closed throttle unless additional fuel is provided.

Usually a setting of about 3 (Green) on the Cobra, or 8-10% additional fuel in the PCIII matrix of closed throttle and 1000-2500 rpms will fix it.

Late post but hope it helps

Gary in Fairbanks
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Old 05-26-2008, 11:21 PM   #58 (permalink)
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Well, that is prbly the best explaination I've heard so far, so it's official. I'm buying the PCIII this week... Thanks for the post..
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Old 06-28-2008, 01:14 AM   #59 (permalink)
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I have a 06 Stradliner. It has vance&hines two into one it has tunder big air kit. with vance&hines fuel pack. It backfired bad at frist, I have changed values on it. It does not backfire as long as I hold throttle closed on deaccolation.
Thanks For no help from Yamaha or Vance&Hines.
PS
Vance and Hines won't give up their values do in their mapper.
Ron Aebischer
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Old 07-03-2008, 04:10 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Hey Guys: I was able to play with the numbers on my Vance and Hines maper I got all the pop out of my Stradliner.
But it wasn't easy.
Ron
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