Do you use the front brake much?

[KD57]

Handy for when you do it by yourself. The rear is easy, but the front either requires 2 people or the brake bleeder tool thingy. Unless you have 5 ft. arms of course.

[Rickster]

Thanks Mike, it makes more sense to me now, specially the part about taking the cover off the master cylinder to check the Voltage.

[themeatmanlandry]

Originally Posted by MikeHump

All you have to do to test it is take a voltmeter and open up the resevour (spelling?) and put the tip of the voltmeter into the fluid and it will give you the reading. The maximum allowable voltage is 0.3 volts, according to state regulations.

So, just put the positive lead in the reservoir and leave the negative on the workbench?

[MikeHump]

Originally Posted by themeatmanlandry

So, just put the positive lead in the reservoir and leave the negative on the workbench?

hahaha of course you need to attach it to a ground. I thought that was implied though.

[themeatmanlandry]

Originally Posted by MikeHump

hahaha of course you need to attach it to a ground. I thought that was implied though.

Just checking. When I take info from people I don't know it's hard to develop any degree of trust.

I still like that part about bleeding off the filthy crap in the caliper as you compress the pistons.

[omegajim]

What, now I need a voltmeter on the bike to keep an eye on the brake fluid?

Which reminds me, has anybody seen a miniature - or bike sized voltmeter?

Was looking to put one on the old Yamaha, I figure any one of these days the alternator is going to go. Between the years and miles, something's bound to go .

[MikeHump]

I actually just looked at my bike, and the brake lines don't seem to be made of steel like they are on cars. So the metal flakes probably won't appear in a bike's brake fluid.

[Rickster]

Most bikes do have some metal brake lines, it's just rubber where there needs to be movement for the suspension travel.

Also most feel it's an upgrade to replace the rubber hoses with braided stainless steel ones.

[MikeHump]

Originally Posted by Rickster

Also most feel it's an upgrade to replace the rubber hoses with braided stainless steel ones.

Yeah, it's an unnecessary upgrade though (performance-wise). Factory brake lines provide the same performance. The braided ones do look cool though.

[KD57]

I have improved performance by installing a shorter brake cable, but don't really know if it was the shorter cable, or the fact I could bleed it off better that increased the performance. I have seen some cheap rubber cables that expanded too much and caused a lesser performance over one that didn't expand.

[themeatmanlandry]

Originally Posted by KD57

I have seen some cheap rubber cables that expanded too much and caused a lesser performance over one that didn't expand.

I've always heard that the lack of expansion is what makes the steel lines more desirable. You get more response at the caliper per "squeeze unit" at the lever.

[KD57]

Originally Posted by themeatmanlandry

I've always heard that the lack of expansion is what makes the steel lines more desirable. You get more response at the caliper per "squeeze unit" at the lever.

Absolutely correct. You will have a shorter, tighter pull at the lever since no travel is taken up by the hose expansion. All the fluid goes straight to the caliper.

[CaptCrashIdaho]

Steel lines make a BIG difference. In fact, if you want to upgrade the FEEL and performance of your brakes braided lines is the first thing to do...followed by sintered pads.

Remember, we tend to think of expansion only in terms of diameter but lines also expand on the long axis of the lines.

Personally the feedback provided by braided lines is priceless.

[themeatmanlandry]

Originally Posted by CaptCrashIdaho

Remember, we tend to think of expansion only in terms of diameter but lines also expand on the long axis of the lines.

Excellent point.

[KD57]

Most cables on street bikes are way too long to start with. I usually shorten mine to the limit of upwards travel and what is needed to turn the bars to full lock. No sense in having a big loop of cable hanging down. V-stars are bad about that. I also put shorter braided cables on the Harley. Made a difference.

[MikeHump]

Are factory bike brake lines made of something other than steel? They don't seem to be steel, but there's always the possibility that they are, if they have an insulated rubber coating. They seem hard when I squeezed them but I'm sure that was due to the pressure in the system. I was just wondering because all cars come out of the factory with steel brake lines. That's why I had the comment that the braided brake lines are mostly for show, because when it comes to cars they really are for show only, the factory brake lines actually work better in most cases. I'm not too familiar with bikes though.

[palanon]

Factory brake line for bikes are rubber (synthetic ) hoses. The brake lines need to be able to move around on a bike.

The S.S. braided lines work better because they don't allow the hoses inside to expand under pressure.

[CaptCrashIdaho]

Originally Posted by MikeHump

That's why I had the comment that the braided brake lines are mostly for show, because when it comes to cars they really are for show only, the factory brake lines actually work better in most cases. I'm not too familiar with bikes though.

On cars aren't most of the exposed/undercarriage runs actual steel tubing? With rubberized stuff on shortruns that move?

PLUS with power brakes I assume you wouldn't get the feedback that squeezing a brakelever on a bike does--I think.

[G51000]

I put stainless on my Moto Guzzi years ago, After 10 years or so the rubber ones were beginning to get ozone cracks. The stainless line give a more positive brake feel.
BTW- I use the front brake and rear every time I stop , and I only use the left disc one the front for normal stops,along with the rear. I feather with the right rotor.
The bike has a linked brake system. The left front caliper is in series with the rear master cylinder and rear brake, I think it is 40/60 ? the 60 to the front. In hard braking I stomp the rear brake pedal and feather to almost lock up on the front wheel. Say from a 30/40mph stop I can chirp the front, with 'much' pressure on the rear and 'maybe' the rear wheel will break loose and slide the last 4/6 feet or so.
I can stop quicker than most,{before ABS} even without using the front hand brake. Most people will over brake on the rear and slide.
I can stomp the foot brake without my hands on the bars and leave them off till just before coming to a complete stop.
The only problem for me is when I change over to my 72 Eldorado, it has drum brakes on both ends and leave a lot to be desired after getting off the G-5.
Maybe it is just me but I rtend to lock up the rear wheel in fast stops. Also when doing some hard riding they will fade to almost no brakes, front or rear. It gives plenty of warning so it is not a problem.

[MikeHump]

Originally Posted by CaptCrashIdaho

On cars aren't most of the exposed/undercarriage runs actual steel tubing? With rubberized stuff on shortruns that move?

PLUS with power brakes I assume you wouldn't get the feedback that squeezing a brakelever on a bike does--I think.

Yes, all factory brake lines on cars are steel except for on the moving parts (ie: where the brake lines connect to the wheel, to allow for suspension travel). I don't know if power brakes slow the feedback or not (I don't think they do though). I would assume that in a car, the feedback is already slowed, due to the large amount of travel that the hydraulic fluid has to make, as opposed to the small amount of travel in a bike. All the power booster does is add an additional 18-21 pounds (generally, and as long as the power booster is working correctly) of pressure onto the master cylinder. Basically, it's as if you're stomping really really hard on the brakes. Just makes it easier on the foot. I think though, that all of the valves in cars also slow the brakes. The metering valve delays application of the front brakes until the rear brakes have been applied slightly, to prevent front wheel lockup. I don't think that metering valves are on bikes though. So brake application in cars is probably always going to be slower than in a bike.

Oh and for the original topic, I try to use both brakes every time I stop. On light application of the brakes though, I do use the rear a little bit before I use the front, to simulate the metering valve effect of a car. I don't know if that's really necessary though.