Lower my 1998 Bandit 600S

[viejo]

I just bought a great looking low mileage Bandit, and love it. I had a 1980 KZ 1000 some years ago, and just got back into riding...Tired of just working all the time! Here's the issue; I'm short, and the bike seems heavier than my old KZ, so my low speed turns and 'angling' are awkward. Maybe more practice will help get me comfortable again, but if there would be some way to 'lower' the platform even an inch, it would be great. It's got a single rear shock absorber for adjusting ride 'stiffness', but not sure if it would affect height. The Corbin seat helps, but I'd still like to get lower. Any ideas? Thanks much.

[Clint]

Welcome. Please fill out your profile.

Holeshot Performance Products, Inc.

Look under "Bandit 600/1200" and "Suspension upgrades". Welcome to M-J!

[robertc729]

[Navy_p503]

Thats the same bike i'm looking at buying. Welcome to the boards!

[viejo]

Originally Posted by RowdyRed94

Welcome. Please fill out your profile.

Holeshot Performance Products, Inc.

Look under "Bandit 600/1200" and "Suspension upgrades". Welcome to M-J!

Thanks Rowdy - Dang, they look perfect! We're off to San Diego in the morning - first vacation in three years - and will order them from the motel. They look easy to install also, which is a break for me. I have to keep the yellow paint fresh on my Ford diesel dipstick so I can find it. I love this little bike; it only has just over 7500 miles on it, and runs so well. Navyp503; I doubt you'll be disappointed if you get one; so far it has been nothing but happy surprises. Thanks for the welcome robertc729; and thanks again Rowdy for the ten-minute-after-posting solution.

[viejo]

Originally Posted by RowdyRed94

Welcome. Please fill out your profile.

Holeshot Performance Products, Inc.

Look under "Bandit 600/1200" and "Suspension upgrades". Welcome to M-J!

Now that I'm determined to get these installed on the bike; just exactly how do they work? Is the entire bike evenly lowered? Or, would I end up with a 'rake', like a 'chopper'? Hopefully not, hard to imagine the performance of one of those in mountain territory. Thanks again.

[Clint]

You might want to lower the forks in the clamps a little to match. Steering will be slightly slowed otherwise. The front wheel is the pivot point when lowering the rear, so you'd only drop the forks a quarter inch or so.

[viejo]

Originally Posted by RowdyRed94

You might want to lower the forks in the clamps a little to match. Steering will be slightly slowed otherwise. The front wheel is the pivot point when lowering the rear, so you'd only drop the forks a quarter inch or so.

If Holeshot is claiming up to 2" lowering on a 600, it would make sense that the front forks would be altered also. So, the assumption is that the 'lowering' would occur in the rear, and the fork adjustment would compensate. Makes sense; as long as it doesn't end up looking like a backyard 'chopper'. Thanks again -

[palanon]

What Rowdy said. You'll probably want to raise the tubes in the tree. You could measure the relation in hight, front to rear, and adjust accordingly after lowering. Also, Dale at Holeshot is a great guy and KNOWS how to deliver great customer service. If needed he would talk you through it. No joke. The man is obsessed about making his customers happy.

Actually, your old KZ is around 100 lbs. heavier than the Bandit 600S. What could be throwing you off are the newer tire designs. When I got the B12, I took it to a parking lot to do the old "get to know the bike" thing. Slow speed turns, figure eights ect. and the bike kept wanting to low or high side.

I checked the shop manuals and was suprised to find out that there was only 5 lbs. difference between the B12 and the 76 KZ 750. I also found how much tire, chasis, engine and suspensions had improved. Newer bikes turn in quicker and lean over much farther. You also don't need as much "body english" to lean them in or straighten them up.

[viejo]

That's good news, palanon, thanks. There's nothing worse than an amateur like me in search of a solution. If I can get some attention after the sale, I'm sold. And you're right also that the first thing I noticed on this Bandit was the terrifying quickness of all the controls and steering. My short term goal is to develop a more tender approach to all movements/actions. I had checked, googled, several times the weight and seat height of my old KZ, but came up blank; wouldn't have known I was throwing around another 100lbs back then! Got to mention; we got to San Diego this afternoon during rush hour traffic; saw many sport bikes and one cruiser aggressively cutting through all the traffic...Guts....or something. Thanks

[palanon]

It's not the same model but, close enough for comparison. Almost 600 lbs.

1980 Kawasaki Z 1000 MK II specifications and pictures

[viejo]

Hey Rowdy - Back [sort of] on this. That Holeshot outfit is really a great experience. Very un-Walmart...Spoke with Dale; he answered the phone when I ordered them, then sent me a email showing installation on his 1250. It's been raining heavily here and I've had some overtime, but today I got to really look at the changeout, with the new struts now in hand. But the doubts of the amateur again struck; the installation itself is quite simple; replace the existing struts by installing the Holeshot struts in the same available holes, using the existing bolts. But the new struts are the same length as the existing, ie, holding the new ones matches up with the existing strut length and mounting holes...From this then; how could they 'lower' the bike some 2" as claimed? No way this guy ain't on the level, but what am I missing on this? Thanks.......a worried wrencher.

[palanon]

I haven't had to change out the dog bones on mine ( I'm assuming that's what the kit contains). I don't think it would take a drastic difference in length or the spacing of the holes. Since they are at an angle maybe that results in a larger drop. Knowing how good Dale is, I'd just do the swap and find out. Even if he sent the wrong ones, which I doubt, Dale would send you out new ones post haste.

Go for it !!

[Rickster]

Sounds like someone has already lowered it. The dog bones need to be longer to lower the bike. 1/8 inch longer, will lower the rear of the bike almost 1 inch.

[palanon]

Yeah Rick, that's what I was thinking. 1/4 - 1/2 = 2 in. drop. By just holding it up there I'm not sure you could tell. I'd want to pull 'em off and lay one on top of the other.

[viejo]

Yes...That of course would be best, to get one off t match exactly. Hard to tell laying one against the other while in place...Dang I hope someone hasn't been 'here' before with an aftermarket fix on this issue. Well, if so, I wouldn't bother Dale about refunds; seems like my mistake; I'd put them on Craigslist. Since it's raining again I may get a chance to do the compare tomorrow; concrete not possible in this slop. Thanks Guys - Appreciate

[palanon]

I'm sure Dale would understand IF their a match. If it's already been lowered, how would you know? Plus, I'm sure you saw all the other goodies on the Holeshot site. Dale would take them back. That's what keeps customers like us coming back.

Just pop 'em off in the a.m. and check. Worse case, send them back for some nice billet pieces, maybe a fork brace, tire hugger, sport rack...mmmmm shiney bits.

[viejo]

Yeah, I'm all over it after the breakfast bacon. When outside my comfort zone I'm usually such a little old lady about stuff...I'm betting that my tomorrow report will be raving about the flat footed'ness of the Bandit - Thanks much.

[Clint]

Aren't there two sets of holes on one end? That might give you more than you think. Like palanon says, it doesn't take much due to the cantilever. You'll just have to pull them and see. It's an easy job with the centerstand. Just find something (or someone) to lever the back tire up and down for you. Let us know what happens.

[Rickster]

I have used a piece of 3/4 to 1/2 inch nylon rope to raise, and lower the rear tire.
Run it through the spokes at the 12 o'clock position of the rear tire, than up over the seat/fender, and tie a knot in it, be sure to leave enough slack, so that you can slip a bar through to twist for taking up the slack. If it looks like it might scratch your paint, you can put a soft cloth between the rope and the shinny parts. Use a zip tie, or some tape, to hold the bar in place when you need both hands free for wrenching.