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| | #21 (permalink) | |
| ... ![]() | Quote:
that's why generally you're supposed to reduce the torque to which you tighten the plugs / nuts / bolts / whatever. somewhere i read that it should be reduced to 70% (so if normal spec calls for 30 ft-lbs, using anti-seize you'd tighten to only 21 ft-lbs). of course, i could have this last part wrong, so please do correct me if you know otherwise! | |
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| | #22 (permalink) | ||||||
| Et cetera ad nauseum ![]() Joined: Dec 2003
Bike: 2002 Bandit 1200 S
Location: St. Cloud, MN, USA
Posts: 18,313
| Interesting point. I always wonder about friction modified by contaminants when using a torque wrench. I think I'll quit using it.
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| | #23 (permalink) | |
| ... ![]() | Quote:
i, on the other hand, will use it wherever possible! i was working on my car today, and ALL of my suspension bolts that i put copper anti-seize on previously came off smoothly and cleanly. the few that i had not treated in the past were so corroded and rusted to the other parts that i snapped the bolt heads clean off. these were M8 bolts (roughly 3/8"). i use anti-seize on pretty well every bolt / thread that i work on, but i also tighten them down to a lower value (by now, i just go by feel and don't use the torque wrench unless it's a totally new bolt size that i haven't wrenched on before). | |
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| | #24 (permalink) | |
| Kickstand Operator ![]() Joined: Mar 2007
Bike: '01 Yamaha V-Star 1100 '79 GS850
Location: Longmont Colorado
Posts: 283
| Quote:
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| | #25 (permalink) | |
| Kickstand Operator ![]() Joined: Mar 2007
Bike: '01 Yamaha V-Star 1100 '79 GS850
Location: Longmont Colorado
Posts: 283
| Quote:
In the rust belt, what I said about exhaust bolts applies to every exposed bolt on the car. | |
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