Does it really matter? Oil brand...

[Danr]

Originally Posted by 919Hooligan

My friends dad bought a Sportster back in 1979. By the time he made it home from the dealer it was really running rough. Upon further inspection he found an empty oil tank. So, in his infinite wisdom, his father went out and decided that he would hold it at full throttle in neutral until it blew so that they could take it back and tell the dealer he never made it home. So, for 15 MINUTES he pinned the throttle until it finally gave. When he called the dealer they pointed out that in the SIGNED sales contract it was the responsibility of the new owner to check all fluids and inspect the bike before leaving the dealership, meaning that it was due to neglect and that they were out of luck. His dad had just converted his brand new sporty into a paper wieght.

Well this is not motorcycle related but in 1971, I bought a new Ford Maverick with the bullet proof (or so I thought) 200 cid engine, two weeks old it develops a rod knock, so I thought I would get a new motor, uh uh Ford had the dealer refit the rod and crank bearing on the bad journal. needless to say I was not a happy camper, Took it out back of my property drained the oil and saved it in a container. Ran the motor until a rod (same one that was refitted) came threw the block. I got my brand new crate motor and it ran for 15 years and 160,000 miles before I sold it and I never felt a bit of guilt about it.

[Rockhead]

Originally Posted by Danr

Well this is not motorcycle related but in 1971, I bought a new Ford Maverick with the bullet proof (or so I thought) 200 cid engine, two weeks old it develops a rod knock, so I thought I would get a new motor, uh uh Ford had the dealer refit the rod and crank bearing on the bad journal. needless to say I was not a happy camper, Took it out back of my property drained the oil and saved it in a container. Ran the motor until a rod (same one that was refitted) came threw the block. I got my brand new crate motor and it ran for 15 years and 160,000 miles before I sold it and I never felt a bit of guilt about it.

You’re my hero

Since were on this topic, for my 99 Celica (Non oil related) I had the road hazard warranty for the tires through a outside vendor after the stock set of tires only lasted 17K. Well the coverage was only $15 per tire and they never asked questions. Pretty much for any reason you could bring back the tire that was unable to be repaired.

I went through four sets of tires in seven years on that deal. When you got the new tire all you had to do was reinsure that tire for $15. Not bad, a new set of tires for only 60 bones, of course you had to space out your mishaps.

[raycogxxx]

Your owner's manual will list the types of oil approved for your bike-brand is little less important-I just put in Valveoline 4 Cycle 10W40 into my M50-meets or exceeds all the manufacturers requirements. Got 4 qts at local auto parts store for $3.39/qt.

[cm121]

Originally Posted by kstateskier

Do I HAVE to go with YamahaLube 20w40SE or SAE or can I use an automotive equivalent for my VStar?

Seems like the yamaha Version is more $$$ because it SAYS Yamaha on it...

[cm121]

Originally Posted by cm121

hi can i put valvoline 20w-50 premium motor oil into a ktm 250cxe

[4dtvman]

Originally Posted by Danr

Well this is not motorcycle related but in 1971, I bought a new Ford Maverick with the bullet proof (or so I thought) 200 cid engine, two weeks old it develops a rod knock, so I thought I would get a new motor, uh uh Ford had the dealer refit the rod and crank bearing on the bad journal. needless to say I was not a happy camper, Took it out back of my property drained the oil and saved it in a container. Ran the motor until a rod (same one that was refitted) came threw the block. I got my brand new crate motor and it ran for 15 years and 160,000 miles before I sold it and I never felt a bit of guilt about it.

That's funny because same thing happen to me but it was the ford service manager that did it.

[Deno]

As to showroom bikes not having fluids in them, that is not true at all dealerships. The local metric bike dealer let me test ride one right off the showroom floor last fall. It had gas, oil and everything ready to go. All he did was slap a plate on it.

[HAMMERPETE]

Originally Posted by kstateskier

My bad ya'll... Allow to explain myself... I'm a rookie moto owner! Woke up this morning at 5am from a bad dream... I dreamt that I've been driving my new motorcycle around for the last 200 miles with no oil! haha sounds stupid right! So I go out to the garage and open the oil fill cap and SEE NOTHING... I grab a flashlight and look into the oil window and see nothing! Shake the bike to try and find the oil level... Anyway it wasn't until I figured out that the level of oil was above the window so I wasn't going to see any level in the window. I also stopped by the yamaha dealer and popped the oil fill cap on a brand new bike and couldn't see any oil either! Imagine my relief! Either way I was just in a foul mood this morning wanting to figure out what kind of oil my bike needs and get it changed for a piece of mind! Talk about waking up on the wrong side of the bed! haha! either way I went with the YamahaLube 10W30 and a new filter... Thanks everyone.

And YES "Meanman" was a typo! haha didn't even mean to do that...

You know another situation that will freak you out. Atleast this happened with my V-star (2000). The manual says level the bike and you can should see a specific level of oil in the sight glass. Well if you ride the bike at this level and ride rather spirited...curves etc the oil level light will come on.
The original owner of mine failed to tell me this.
Basically he rode the bike and it came on...he freaked and added more oil...then off loaded the bike.
Well I changed the oil at the correct interval. I set the level to the bike manual specifications. Light came on and I freaked. Verified with my local shopfor the solution..add the oil to the top of the sight level. I rode the bike another 10K miles before I sold it. The bike ran like a champ.

[Silas]

Rotella Synthetic 5w40 at Wal Mart about $16. Change often.
Come on guys, give a straight answer to an old, old question.

[Blade]

I run either Kendall 20w50 motorcycle oil or GoldenSpectro 20W50 Blend, which is 50/50 synthetic-petrolieum base.

[omegajim]

scooter oil. Expecially on the newer bikes.

The older bikes, like mine, semi synthetic whatever. She's bound to go any day anyhow. Or maybe not.

[inspiron]

Puh-leez.

As Landry said on the first page, asking which oil is best is equivalent to asking which religion is best, or which hair color makes a woman most sexy. There is no right answer.

Synthetic, Semi-Synthetic, Mineral oil ... RTFM, and use whatever meets the manufacturer's specifications.

[IntruderCruiser]

Amsoil motorcycle specific oil with an Amsoil filter -- put in it after you have some mileage on the bike -- maybe 3 to 4 thousand

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by inspiron

There is no right answer.

Synthetic, ...........

Well, as a matter of fact there IS a right answer.

Many independent studies, scientific analysis and thousands of satisfied users provides solid proof that synthetic oil is better.

Having said that, any good dino oil that meets mfg. specs is all you really need in most circumstances.

The question is: Do you want to pay extra for better protection?.......admittedly maybe overkill ?
Some do and some don't. Neither decision is "wrong", just different.

Now, as to which brand of oil within a given type is best ????????
Studies on that have shown that there ain't any significant difference among the major brands.

So the answer is: Stay away from no-name, off-brand oils. Follow mfg. recommendations as far as weight and spec. and change intervals. And if you want the best protection available, use synthetic, but be prepared to pay extra for it.

And one final caveat: Do NOT use any oil in a bike that is labeled "Energy Conserving" or that states that is has "friction modifiers" if the bike has a wet clutch. Might cause slippage.