Is it Spring yet?

[Louis]

On Wednesday after work, I rode my bike for the last time in 2005 to the gas station to fill her up. I put fuel stabilizer in it and the rear wheel on jack stand.

I still need to change the oil and fill it up to the rim, put the front end on jack stand as well, clean and lube the chain and remove the battery. I'm still debating removing the plug and pouring oil down the cylinders.

I hadn't used the bike for about 10 days and being very humid lately, the front rotors and started to develop some surface rust which cleared on my very short trip for gas. Can I safely put WD40 on them and in the Spring use brake cleaner to degrease them?

So, is it Spring yet?

[Clint]

Not sure about the WD, Louis. If it gets in the pads it may want to stay there. As for the oil in the cylinders, you'll need to crank the engine a few times to distribute it. I haven't done it for years. I don't think three months warrants it, especially if I sneak a ride in the January thaw.

[DrBob]

I agree with RowdyRed- the WD-40 would not be good for the brake pads. Put a good coat of carnuba car wax on the exposed part of the rotors, and any other metal, to prevent rust. Before you ride spray some formula 409, brake cleaner, or wash with dish soap to remove the wax from the rotors.

[Trapper]

Let's say that you don't fog or oil the cylinders. Should you turn the petcock off and run the carbs dry after you let the stabilzer run through for a bit?

[Louis]

The SV is FI. No carbs.

[Rickster]

I think Trapper was asking about his Marauder 800. I some times do that (run the carbs dry) to save time, havent ever had a problem. Don't do it on a 2-stroke, your lube is in the gas. If you want to be safe, just pull the plug on the bottom of your carbs

[Clint]

Originally Posted by Louis

The SV is FI. No carbs.

Kinda beside the point. Should you run the fuel system dry or stabilize it? I go with the latter and haven't had any problems.

[Louis]

I know he was asking more for HIS marauder but this is MY thread

I put fuel stabilizer in it and let ir tun a few minutes to ensure that the stabilizer gets into the injection system as well, as mentioned in my owner's manual.

[Trapper]

It's always all about you, Loowee.

[Rickster]

I know it's in the manual, but can anyone tell me why we need to fill the oil up to the rim. Seems to me that fresh oil with no particulate, or contamiated should be enough.

[blackie1491]

Who looks after the Mods. when they hijack each other's thread????
After looking out my windows, I can tell you SPRING has not arrived.

[Clint]

Originally Posted by Rickster

I know it's in the manual, but can anyone tell me why we need to fill the oil up to the rim. Seems to me that fresh oil with no particulate, or contamiated should be enough.

Y'know, I didn't catch that the first time around. Never heard of it and it sounds like a good way to blow up your engine. What the crap are you talking about, Louis?

[Trapper]

I think he meant change the oil and fill THE GAS up to the rim. There's a lot of french people on the east coast so I understand.

Hey Lou, throw me down the stairs, my keys!

[Rickster]

No, I'm prety sure I read in the manual, that you should top off the oil all the way up to the filler cap. Than disconnect the battery as a reminder.

[Clint]

Originally Posted by trappercase

Hey Lou, throw me down the stairs, my keys!

LMAO! I had to think about that one.

I suppose it's for condensation, but I've never heard that in my life.

[inspiron]

Originally Posted by Rickster

No, I'm prety sure I read in the manual, that you should top off the oil all the way up to the filler cap. Than disconnect the battery as a reminder.

Check your manual again.

Oil up to the MAX line, never higher. Too much oil will damage the engine.

Gas up to the top of the tank to prevent condensation forming inside the tank during storage - this could cause the tank to rust and/or cause problems with water mixing with the fuel.

[Rickster]

OK, I just checked my owner's manual again ( 2005 DL 1000 V Strom ). Chapter 8, page 2. Storage procedures, step 2 "Drain the engine oil thoroughly and refull the crankcase with fresh oil all the way up to the filler hole".
Procedure for returning to service. Step 3. "Drain all the engine oil, install a new oil filter and fill the engine with fresh oil as outlined in this manual".

[Clint]

Well, if you're looking for 100% certainty that you won't have any moisture in your crankcase, go ahead. There have been millions of vehicles stored over the years without that procedure. I wouldn't bother.

[Rickster]

I aggre with you Rowdy. I have no intention of filling my oil up to the rim. I'll do as I've been doing for many years. That's to start the bike once or twice a month, and let do a full warm up.
I was just pointing out that it's in the manual. Kind of funny to, becaus I have 2 other Suzukis, and there manuals just say to change the oil, no mention of filling to the rim. Go figure.

[87gsxrnut]

Spring??? I dunno. It was in the 80s here yesterday BIAHHTCH!



Fill the crankcase w/oil?!?!?? WTF?!?!?!? No thanks. Too much work. I have an '87 GSX-R 750 that has more hard miles on her than just about any bike on this board. Stored in freezing cold to unbearably hot conditions in the 14-years since I've owned her.

Just change the oil and filter in the spring and you will be OK.

- Nut