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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Kickstand Operator ![]() Joined: Oct 2007
Bike: 2007 Suzuki S50 /07 Yamaha FZ6 / 1992 Yamaha RT180
Location: Lithia Springs, Georgia
Posts: 286
| Ninja 250. @70mph, tachs slightly over 8k rpm, if speedo is correct. Has anyone put a 15 tooth c-sprocket on and how does it perform? Has anyone put the 16 tooth c-sprocket on and how does it perform? I know hole shot will definitly will be much slower. But does it overload the engine? I went to a website, speed calculator, and according to the chart it will drop rpm's approximately 1k @ 70 mph. Any input? ![]() ![]() ![]()
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Kickstand Operator ![]() Joined: Oct 2007
Bike: 2007 Suzuki S50 /07 Yamaha FZ6 / 1992 Yamaha RT180
Location: Lithia Springs, Georgia
Posts: 286
| Haven't heard anything, so I'll try a 15 tooth and test. then try the 16 tooth and test. Will post results as soon as I am able. ![]()
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| | #3 (permalink) | |
| In The Zone ![]() Joined: Apr 2007
Bike: Suzuki GZ250
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 2,516
| Quote:
I'm assuming that the front sprocket is 14T stock ?? Different bike with totally different power band characteristics but........Suzuki GZ250, went up one tooth on the front and made for a much smoother ride around town but lost 8-10 mph on the top end. You might find the same thing but your top end started out a good bit higher than the GZ thumper. You might be better able to tollerate a loss there. Changing the front sprocket should be relatively easy; go for it. I seriously doubt that you can get away with +2 without some signigicant performance loss.
__________________ Loud pipes risk rights! | |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| No Significant Other ![]() | It all depends on how you ride. There is always a trade off. Low end or high end. Stop light to stop light or highway, there really is no magic bullet. Once you try different sprockets ( gearing ), you'll know what works best. In most cases, it's easier on you and the motor if you just change the rear sprocket. In most cases it's at least a 2 or 3 to 1 ratio. 16x48 etc.. Smaller front sprockets can create more wear on the sprocket and chain and place more stress on the shaft ( cush is usually on the wheel ).
__________________ " In the name of the Speedo, the Tach and the Holy Throttle, amen. "
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| In The Zone ![]() Joined: Oct 2007
Bike: 2008 ZZR600
Location: Under a rock in Texas
Posts: 2,572
| Yep, much better to use a larger c/s sprocket and do the tuning w/ the rear, although it's more expensive and more of a hassel that way. Go too big and the chain will be too short. But it's cheap and easy to change out the c/s to see what affect it has on your gearing. Also the wheelbase changes as you run the chain adj. travel to it's limits, which may or may not affect handling.
__________________ The "other" ZZR rider.
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Kickstand Operator ![]() Joined: Oct 2007
Bike: 2007 Suzuki S50 /07 Yamaha FZ6 / 1992 Yamaha RT180
Location: Lithia Springs, Georgia
Posts: 286
| All I want is to lower the rpm's, cause I use the bike for commute only. Small amounts of Interstate use and suburb use. I don't need holeshot. I mainly got the 250 to reaquaint myself to riding again and for the price. I have the S50 for mild cruising. Thanks to all who input on this question. ![]() ![]()
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