Wiring dummy needs help---PLEASE

[Mavman]

I have a Suzuki Boulevard M50

I'm going with a side mounted vertical Licence plate......

I'm looking at using "Lite'N Boltz", they are a 2 wire 12vdc design that I found at customdynamics.com to illuminate it. My question is......could I simply just wire them directly to the battery?

Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

[Clint]

You bet. Just make sure to properly fuse the hot side, near the battery, and with as low a fuse amp rating as you can.

Alternatively, there's often an unused, fused or breakered wire somewhere on most bikes for features not installed. Anyone?

[ForbidInjustice]

I run everything directly to the battery. From a side-mount plate bracket, that should be quite close to the battery, so pretty easy to do, and you can probably get it very clean-looking. [I never did install illumination for mine though, even though it is required by law.]

I'd rather run it to the harness.. to the headlight illumination, so it will be on whenever the headlight is... otherwise, if you run it directly to the battery, you're going to have to install a toggle switch, or it will be on ALL the time, even when the bike is off [bad idea]. I don't favour those toggle switches for stuff like that, because what's the point? Do you want to have to remember to flip the switch every time the sun goes down?


Ride on wind!


Edit: As Mr. Rowdy says, remember the fuse..

[Mavman]

Hi ForbidInjustace, yep, Concerning the toggle switch--very true...what's the point.

I'm just kinda worried about tapping into the harness with my very limited wiring ability...and don't have alot of money to have it done. But thinking easy for me and harmless to set up.

Here's where I'm at with what to purchace so far. By the way, would the fuse mentioned below be a high enough amp/voltage?

an inline fuse holder-(accepts a 5x20mm fuse Rating @250VAC-5amp) from radio shack.

Fast-acting 5x20mm glass fuse-(5.0 amps, 125 volts) from same.

Concerning the harness-(I could attach a pic if ya want).......there's one directly under the seat running wires to the tail light/turn signals and license plate light. Problems is....with out taking the fender and this and that off I can't tell what wires are goin' to what...(keep in mind, I'm an embarrassment to the wiring world)..Could I just tap into these by trial and error (with the fuse hooked up of course) till the license plate lights work??

Thanks FI for this and any additional info.

P.S. THANKS Rowdy for the fuse info I appreciate you pointing me in the right direction.

[ForbidInjustice]

I am pretty good at tapping into wires, so I usually go down that route.. I unhook the battery, take a razor blade or knife and shave down the wire to expose it, and then make an area big enough to splice the wire in. You'll probably have people replying to this and telling you that this is a bad idea... or to do it via a better method.. before you even get around to messing with it. I would find that light that already illuminates the license plate, and splice it in there.. it's already hooked up.. and I bet you it's fused!

I'm not very good with fuse ratings.. with my 12v neon lights, I used to buy the inline fuse holder, and one of the glass 10a or 15a fuses.. I can't remember which it is, but I believe it's 10amp. As you know with fuses.. if you get it too low, it will blow quite often. If you get it too high, you risk blowing your component, thus eliminating the purpose of the fuse. Maybe you can check with the seller of your lights? They may know the best fuse rating to use.


Ride on wind!

[Mavman]

Ok, sounds good. I'll check with the seller about the fuse/try to find that wire and let ya know.

Again, I appreciate the help! THANKS.

[Clint]

As far as splicing - you can buy those crimp on, side-by-side splicers (like this). They work well if properly sized. I tend to solder everything I do, even terminals. Vibration and dust are the enemy.

[Mavman]

Got a response today form "truck customizers" today stating that a 1amp/12vold fuse should work fine due to the lnb's not drawing very much current. Still waiting for the (lite'N Boltz) to arrive that I ordered and haven't looked real hard for the license plate wire yet-(still considering other options) and such. Just wanted to update you all.

p.s. I might possibly go with a toggle switch also since I currently do spotty if any-(will most likely change) night riding, but would have the illumination option there when needed.

THANKS

[ForbidInjustice]

Yeah, if you don't do that much night riding, a toggle switch isn't a bad idea.. but if the "Lite 'n Boltz" are LED lights, then why? The toggle switch is just one more thing to have to wire in and put somewhere. Those LEDs last what.. 100,000 hours or something? Your great-great grandkids will still be around before those lights burn out. Most things like that nowadays are made with LED lights [even traffic lights now], to avoid having to replace them as often, obviously.

Glad you're making progress. Holler if you need to.


Ride on wind!

[Mavman]

Custom dynamics web site had me thinking they were LED a while back till I went here

http://1tail.com/sa/p/Lite_N_Boltz_d...ish_(pair).htm

turned out there filiment.

Scott

[ForbidInjustice]

Aww, lame. They need to get with the program!

[Mavman]

Update....got my Lite'N Boltz last night in the mail....going a different route to set up though. I found the license plate wiring-for me that's a blessing, (done a temp splice and YES it's fused and the lights work ) I'm in the process of re-routing that to the swing arm and hook up. I'll post pics when I get done.

p.s. Wanted to mention that their BRIGHTER than I thought they would be, tested them in the dark garage when I done the "temp splice", maybe not as much as LED, but they work for me

Thought I'd share with all that's lended a hand. THANKS

[Mavman]

Ok.....the end result I went with connection wise is:

But connectors
black tape
shrink tubing
zip ties

Ran original license plate wiring back through between plastic fender and metal underbracket, connected more wiring, then zip tied all to swing arm. Hooked up the lite'N Boltz...Cut off all the license plate hangy stuff off the back-(gotta big beafy tire look now )..DONE . Here's the pics.

p.s. Wiring just behind the plate is not "super clean looking" due to the possibility of needing to change license plate/burned out light bulb down the road.

AND Just wanted to say THANKS to one and all that helped make this happen.

[ForbidInjustice]

Looks great! [and the bike does, too]. Glad you finished your project, brother.

[MagnumForce]

Man, your bike is smokin hot! Me likey.

[Mavman]

Thanks guys. I'm looking into putting an (aeromach license plate flamed accent) on the license plate and get some (arlen ness flamed mirrors) to help with the visual effect.