No fire - 650 VStar

[Roadtoad]

I have a 2000 650 VStar and have never had one minute of problems...until now. Everything is still original. Approx 2 wks ago, began having problem with it shutting off when idleling at stop signs, etc. Was real hard to restart. Once restarted, ran perfect...until the next time. Decided to start with replacing battery and plugs. Has not corrected the problem. Two days ago the rear coil quit firing. Today both coils have quit firing. Have checked all connections, all safety switches, all hookups, everything seems to be perfect. My question is could it be the pickup coil or the stator? Anyone have any suggestions? Would love to be able to fix problem myself without taking it the shop and giving up my money. I'm open to any and all suggestions. Wanted to take this bike on vacation in two weeks but it looks like I'll be spending my vacation working on my bike instead.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Roadtoad

Would love to be able to fix problem myself without taking it the shop and giving up my money.

You've had the bike for 7 years or so and other than routine maint., it has cost you what, ZERO dollars in repairs ??

So now you would rather screw up your vacation and get frustrated trying to do something you are not trained for rather than paying someone who IS a trained mechanic ??

I'm sorry but I just don't understand that mentality. In a lot of cases, people end up throwing away MORE money than they would have paid the shop.

When you get sick, do you try to treat yourself or do you see a doctor ??

Nothing personal; this comes up ALL the time. I just don't understand it.

[Roadtoad]

It's not that. Why would I take it to a shop without having some idea of what is wrong so that the "mechanic" will fix everything even if it isn't broken. This comes from experience with the local mechanics. The ones around here dollar you to death and when you are ready to give up, then they decide that they know what the problem is. As far as the doctor goes, yes I do treat myself unless I have something that warrants hospitalization. I thought this area was for bikers helping bikers. If I am wrong, let me know and I will find another way to figure it out.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Roadtoad

It's not that. Why would I take it to a shop without having some idea of what is wrong so that the "mechanic" will fix everything even if it isn't broken.

That's perfect.

I didn't get that impression from your post......and I probably should have kept my big yap shut.........but we get SOOOO many people here who have absolutely NO training and experience but still have an obsession with "doing it themselves", no matter how complicated it gets.

After a few rounds of "I did that and it didn't help, what next?" it can get a little frustrating.

Appears that you aren't in that category and I picked a bad place to vent so..... really sorry!

Carry on.

[Aussie Steve]

I guess the best way to attack this problem is to think it through. The alternator provides power for the spark to the coils via whatever the manufacturer deems is necessary to fit in between...so a wiring diagram is the first port of call. Also specs for all the electrical tollerances is required.

I don't think both coils would fail in such a short space of time so it has to be something that supplies them. Check to see if there is a relay in the ignition circuit...should be... and that it operates correctly. A visual check will not be sufficient and a replacement should be tried if there is any doubt. Next with the motor running check across the battery terminals with a digital multimeter set at VDC...twenty setting should be selected or similar.

As the rpms rise so should the voltage... at a peak of around three to five thou rpms you should get about 14.5 VDC across the battery. If not then your alternator is not doing its job properly and cannot provide sufficent current to fire the electronic ignition.

The alternator may not be toast as you will have other components that may cause the drop...the rectifier system may be the culprit and depending upon what alternator you have,(internal/external) the diodes may be inside or on an external pack on the frame somwhere. To check that this is working you will need the specific way to check them for your model. If the readings are not to spec then it is this that is causing the fault.

Be methodical in the way you check the system...for instance if the VDC does rise when you rev the motor then the fault has to be something else.

Electrical faults can be a PITA to find and sometimes turn out to be the most ridiculous things but remember just because it looks OK doesn't mean that it is...........not trying to lecture here! sorry if I did!

Ps if you cannot get the motor to run for the VDC check then check the state of your battery first. This will give a clear indication that the charging circuitry is failing or not. Then go onto the relay and specifications checking.

PPs just re read your post and the problem is worse when the motor is hot??? if so then check for electrical breakdown when hot...easy to say as the thing quits when its hot but the spec test needs to be done then.

Good luck