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| | #2 (permalink) | |
| In The Zone ![]() Joined: Apr 2007
Bike: Suzuki GZ250
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 2,546
| Quote:
Take the cable off of the bottom of the speedometer (only....leave other end attached). Roll the bike forward a ways and watch the loose cable end. If the cable is turning, the speedometer itself must be bad. If the cable is NOT turning, then there must be a problem with the drive gear(s) where it attaches to the front wheel. Note: The cable won't turn much. It might be better to raise the front end and spin the wheel by hand.
__________________ Loud pipes risk rights! | |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| U.B's LoveChild ![]() Joined: Jan 2007
Bike: 02 1200 Bandit
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 1,125
| I had a similar problem a few years back. Most Jap bikes have a sealed bezel on the top but with careful use of a small screwdriver and patience you can remove it without too much damage and it can be re used. Once this is removed you can access the drive mechanism after removing the screws that hold it in place. The mechanism will have a direct drive to the magnetic spool. This drives the needle around the face. The common problems are.....rust build up on the edges causing the spool to run unevenly or crud build up causing the same. If the spool doesn't spin freely the needle will not register any movement. The spool also needs to spin without any roughness...unfortuanatly if this is the problem then you are not likely to be able to repair it yourself due to the cradle it spins in being made from soft zinc and having tiny brass bearings pressed in. Another area to check is the drive collar near the base of the instrument this attaches to the spool directly and sometimes comes loose over time. A light tap with a small hammer may be all that is needed to drive it home to its mating surface. I would try this before pulling the instrument apart. Before attempting any of this I would try what ER suggested as even if a cable looks OK it isn't....sometimes the small collet that holds the inner cable in its correct position slips allowing the speedo end not to engage correctly with the drive...or vice versa. A new cable attached as ER said will give an indication of the drive working or not. If it is this then repairing the drive is not really an option just go to a wreckers and get a replacement. One final test before doing anything is cut the old cable down to a short length with the squared drive section still on. Insert it into a drill with the squared off section poking out and put it into the speedo. Run the drill and check to see if the speedo registers...make sure the drill is spinning in the right direction...some speedo's run clockwise and others anti clockwise. Sorry about the long post but I have fixed supposedly "stuffed" instruments several times at very little cost. Good luck.
__________________ Just remember you ARE entitled to my opinion!!!! Last edited by Aussie Steve; 10-27-2007 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Dyslexic keyboard |
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| | #5 (permalink) | |
| In The Zone ![]() Joined: Apr 2007
Bike: Suzuki GZ250
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 2,546
| Quote:
![]() Good post, Steve!
__________________ Loud pipes risk rights! | |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| U.B's LoveChild ![]() Joined: Jan 2007
Bike: 02 1200 Bandit
Location: Western Australia
Posts: 1,125
| Lucky you Bill.... Generally there is no way to repair the drive as they are usually sealed and even if you could pull it apart you will find a nylon/plastic bevel drive and pinnion which cannot be either repaired or replaced...due to the drive being sealed. The bevel drive has two or more tangs that locate in the wheel housing and it is these that usually fail... either that or the gear teeth. If you look on your speedo face near the bottom there should be some numbers/model number. Any bike with the same model number will have a drive of the same ratio....now all you need to do is find one that fits...try a wreckers.
__________________ Just remember you ARE entitled to my opinion!!!! |
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