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Old 09-25-2007, 08:51 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Let's Talk Batteries

I've got a bike, brand new w/a little over 600 miles on it. It got wrecked back in March and now (in September) it appears the battery is dead. I've hit it with the charger (6 amps) a few times, but it won't take a charge (I guess). The charger needle just lingers near the bottom of the range.

When I turn the key, I get nothing. Not even a light. I checked the battery last night with a voltmeter and I got:

Charging: 13,97 volts
Idle: 3.56 volts and steadily dropping

Once while it was on the charger, I turned the ignition key to "ON" and everything lit up. I immediately turned it back off.

I hooked up jumper cables last night to my Dodge Ram and I still got nothing. I'm thinking the cables must be bad (they were cheapos).

Question 1: What are the odds that this battery's dead for good?
Question 2: Would you think the fuse is blown, and is that it under the left-hand fairing?
Question 2: Should I expect the dealership to pony up a new one? I'm guessing not, as I let this one sit for 6 months.

My plan is to take any input here and get another set of jumper cables so that I can try again tonight.

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Old 09-25-2007, 09:14 AM   #2 (permalink)
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If you trickle charge it for 24 hrs., put it back in the bike, and it won't light up the gages and lights, you may have a plate short from the accident. It should read around 12 volts with nothing attached.

Some of the parts stores will throw it on the tester for you at no charge. If you just want to have something to power the bike during your rebuild, measure the dimensions of the battery and get a replacement battery from the hardware store. These are usually made for lawn tractor and what not and are sold by size. They usually cost $20 - $30.
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Old 09-25-2007, 09:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks for the quick reply!

I rode it home from the accident, would that rule out a plate short?

Also, I'm finished with the rebuild. I'm ready to ride. Should I feel safe with an Auto Zone battery, or do I need to go to the dealer?

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Old 09-25-2007, 09:17 AM   #4 (permalink)
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I don't know Landry.

My wife let her bike sit without starting it, and the battery does the same thing. No accident, no fuse blown, just sitting idle.

I'm just gonna put a new one in it.
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Old 09-25-2007, 09:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themeatmanlandry View Post
Thanks for the quick reply!

I rode it home from the accident, would that rule out a plate short?

Also, I'm finished with the rebuild. I'm ready to ride. Should I feel safe with an Auto Zone battery, or do I need to go to the dealer?

If you rode it after the accident, chances are it's died of natural causes. If your all set to ride it, I'd get a decent battery. Since your in TN you could probably get away with a cheaper battery but, why bother. Check around for prices, I've been hosed on the price before. Maybe shoot Bill ( Blade ) an email. He could probably get you one to your door in less than 4-5 days.
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Old 09-25-2007, 09:51 AM   #6 (permalink)
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A lot of places won't ship batteries, which I think is humorous. HOW did the battery get to the dealer in the first place? You can't ship? Do the dealers all have a lead smelter, a plastic extruder and a tank full of acid behind the shop?

[EDIT] A jump should work, right?

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Old 09-25-2007, 09:56 AM   #7 (permalink)
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> I rode it home from the accident, would that rule out a plate short?

No.

> Also, I'm finished with the rebuild. I'm ready to ride. Should I feel safe
> with an Auto Zone battery, or do I need to go to the dealer?

Yes and no, in that order.

Not much real quality difference among batteries of a given type.
If Auto Zone (or Walmart for that matter) has an exact type replacement, go for it. Will probably be just as good as what the dealer sells..........and might even be better.

FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS THAT COME WITH THE NEW BATTERY !!!!

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Old 09-25-2007, 10:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yes. Be very careful and don't have the car/truck running. The gixxer has quite a few electronics you don't want to cook.

Disclaimer: Paul does not advocate the jump starting of a motorcycle with a full size vehicle. Palanon does not assume any liability in the event of damages resulting from said operation. Do not use in shower or while sleeping. Not intended for human consumption. Not microwave safe.

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Old 09-25-2007, 10:10 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themeatmanlandry View Post
I've got a bike, brand new w/a little over 600 miles on it. It got wrecked back in March and now (in September) it appears the battery is dead. I've hit it with the charger (6 amps) a few times, but it won't take a charge (I guess). The charger needle just lingers near the bottom of the range.

When I turn the key, I get nothing. Not even a light. I checked the battery last night with a voltmeter and I got:

Charging: 13,97 volts
Idle: 3.56 volts and steadily dropping

Once while it was on the charger, I turned the ignition key to "ON" and everything lit up. I immediately turned it back off.

I hooked up jumper cables last night to my Dodge Ram and I still got nothing. I'm thinking the cables must be bad (they were cheapos).

Question 1: What are the odds that this battery's dead for good?
Question 2: Would you think the fuse is blown, and is that it under the left-hand fairing?
Question 2: Should I expect the dealership to pony up a new one? I'm guessing not, as I let this one sit for 6 months.

My plan is to take any input here and get another set of jumper cables so that I can try again tonight.

Sounds like you have a dead short between the cells. If you have someone hold the voltmeter to the leads while you crank, you can see if it's hosed. If it has a charge of about 12.xx to 13 volts before cranking then drops down below 10 or so when cranking then the battery is shot.
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Old 09-25-2007, 10:34 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by palanon View Post
Yes. Be very careful and don't have the car/truck running. The gixxer has quite a few electronics you don't want to cook.

Disclaimer: Paul does not advocate the jump starting of a motorcycle with a full size vehicle. Palanon does not assume any liability in the event of damages resulting from said operation. Do not use in shower or while sleeping. Not intended for human consumption. Not microwave safe.

I had the truck running.
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Old 09-25-2007, 11:20 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Should be OK. It's the rare times the vehicles alternator is pushing out a lot of juice that can overload and damage a bikes rather small electrical system. Even in that case, a fuse will usually blow first.
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Old 09-25-2007, 11:36 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Cool. I'll try to jump it (with the truck motor off!!) with better cables. If that doesn't work, I'll just break down and buy a new battery.

To make matters worse, at 11:00 last night, I tried to jump the bike. No go? Thassokay, I'll just take the Bandit out for a late-night spin for an hour or two. I go in . . . put on some pants (shut up!!) . . . put on my boots . . . get a shirt . . . put on my jacket and gloves (2 zippers, 4 velcro) . . . don my helmet . . . open up the garage door and find . . . rain. Crap.

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Old 09-25-2007, 04:56 PM   #13 (permalink)
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what is a plate short. My wife said these circumstances are identical to hers.
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Old 09-25-2007, 06:01 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by filson445 View Post
what is a plate short. My wife said these circumstances are identical to hers.
You think your WIFE is a plate short?

No, that's not what you meant?

It's a shorted cell. That's why most lead-acid batteries fail. Sulphur salts form on the plates (faster when not fully charged) and then fall to the bottom where they short out the lead plates. For each shorted cell, you lose 2.2 volts.
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Old 09-25-2007, 10:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Got ya.
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