New dead battery

[Mydlyfkryzis]

Originally Posted by Aussie Steve

Yes I just wanted to clear up the fact I meant bump starting the bike not jumping it from another bikes battery....I would never try that anyway as the electronic equipment of both bikes can be easily damaged.

As for checking the battery you should get about 12.5 to 13 VDC across the terminals of a good battery. You can check its being charged by running the engine to about 3 to 5K rpm and the multi meter across the terminals should read between 14.5 to 15 VDC. If it isn't there is a fault with the charging circuitry or alternator. This should not go down when the lights are switched on as extra couils in the alternator come into play for the extra current draw

Also I do not know where this idea that an alternator cannot put out enought power...they changed from dynamo type generators on old British iron for the simple reason that an alternator can put out more juice. Many problems occure because the Japs put just enought of an alternator to run everthing on their bikes and no more. Also batteries are now so flimsy internaly that breakdown after a year or so is almost guaranteed...this is the price we pay for fast light bikes.

I just replaced my 7 year old battery in my Nighthawk. Not too flimsy.

The alternators do not put out full capacity at an idle. Not even your car alternator does. Depending on the operating range of the engine, full output can be as late as 4000 RPM. Most have their full ratings in the 2500-3500 engine operating RPM.

For instance, My NH has a 330 watt alternator (about 30 amps max). My bike draws about 16 amps to run lights and ignition. At an idle, The alternator is about 10 amps short of this. At 3500 RPM, it can charge the battery at 10 amps and still power all the lights and ignition. Once the battery is fully charged, the requirement for charging is about 0 amps. The entire output of the alternator is then available for the rest of the bike. The voltage regulator makes sure the output matches the needs. I have 2 50 watt driving lights. When the battery is low on charge (after starting), I do not have enough current available to charge the battery quickly and run the lights. If I leave the lights off until the charge rate drops to less than 1 amp, I can run the driving lights without dropping voltage output on the alternator. (I have a voltmeter/amp meter on my bike).

Since my engine has about a 7500 RPM operating range (1000 idle to 8500 max), the maximum output is setup around the middle of that.

A cruiser engine with a 4000 RPM range will probably charge fully around 2000 RPM. A 600CC, 14000 RPM motor will usually be in the 4-5000 RPM range for full output.

The alternator is sized as a compromise between physical size and output. Since motorcycles spend very little time at idle, designing for a large output at idle is a waste. The smaller size is lighter, and absorbs less power.

[Aussie Steve]

That is what I was trying to say... an alternator is up to the job and as I said earlier it is the better option. The fact that it doesn't charge sufficiently at lower revs is a given that needs to be understood.

A partially charged battery is a problem waiting to happen and to rely on an alternator to charge a flat battery is, (unless you run your bike at 4000 rpm for the next 200 miles anyway) a waste of time, as you have explained.

As for having a battery last for 7 years well I guess there are always the exceptions to the rule but I would suggest that most will change batteries every two years or so. My experience is if you don't maintain the things they go even sooner.

[omegajim]

Every 2 years is why I got sick of the traditional lead acid battery.

Now I use a absorbed glass mat battery (agm) and it's been going 5 years with no signs of quitting. Pretty impressive actually.

[Aussie Steve]

How much are these as I will probably be getting rid of my B12...possibly for a newer one or a similar bike and it is not worth paying too much over the price of a standard lead acid.

I saw the latest Kawasaki 1400 sports/tourer and they are very well priced...around $12,990Au as apposed to $12,500 for the Bandit...probably get it for less if you try hard enough!

[omegajim]

Well you didn't say you were planning on getting rid of the bike.

If you plan to do it within a year, get another lead acid. If you're not so sure about the time table, by the fancy agm battery. Down under, prolly close to 75 of your dollars.

Then the bike will start so well, you may want to keep it a bit longer.

btw, I found out from a battery expert (he worked for Ray-o-vac, so he might know a little about batteries) and he said, "heat is harder on a battery than cold."

So the short battery life you are running into may be partly due to heat (say 30 centigrade).

[Mydlyfkryzis]

My 7 year old Battery was a Yuasa regular Lead-Acid. However, it was really marginal the last year I used it.

Kept on battery tender all the time. Distilled water only.

I just replaced it with a Yuasa AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) model. I am hoping for a similar life, but won't need the distilled water (Battery is sealed type).

Keeping a lead acid battery charged is the only to to get maximum life out of it. If you run a battery dead, it shortens the life and capacity of the battery.

A battery Tender or equivalent (automatic charger with a float mode) is the best way to keep the battery happy. I park my bike and plug it in.

[macinstien]

How do you charge it? I have no idea how to hook it up. Doesn't show in the manual.Just got it 2 days ago and it wouldn't start today. Its been 25 years since I've had a bike.

[Aussie Steve]

Are you talking about a standard charger...if so just take the battery out...you can disconnect it and leave it in situ but you may get battery acid all over from the charging process.... Take off the vent caps and top up each cell if needed with distilled water.

Connect the red cable of the battery charger to the positive...+ battery post and the black charger cable to the negative...- post. Plug the charger in and leave for 15 to 25 hours to charge depending on the chargers output...usually 4 amps and the state of the battery.

Always disconnect the charger or switch it off before disconnecting the charger cables to prevent sparks and never look directly down the little filler holes. It is also reccomended that you attach the + cable first and remove it first.

You will need to keep an eye on it to make sure no cells dry out. You may also have to top up a cell or two at the end. If you have a hydrometer test all cells before topping up at the beginning. Any cell that is more than 20 points different indicates a stuffed battery and a minimum of around 120 to 140 is needed. Anything less also indicates a stuffed battery.

You cannot add water and then test as you will get an inaccurate reading so do all testing at the beginning or half way through the charging process

Good luck

[omegajim]

In addition to Steve I can add this.

Keep an eye on the water; any exposed battery plates are cooked. Therefore, if 10 percent of the plates are exposed, you lose 10 percent of the battery.

2nd, one of the cells will use more water than the rest, and one will use less than the rest. Call it inconsistency in the mfg process.

3rd, you are best off using the lowest charge setting on your charger. Over charging the battery isn't good for it either.

Luckily enough, the 1 amp trickle chargers will do the trick for just over $20. It may take several hours, but the battery will get charged.

Oh and before I forget, the battery may have been sitting on the store shelf awhile. Although that shouldn't matter because you don't add the acid until you are ready to use the battery.

good luck.