2001 Bandit clutch problem?

[eyeeatingfish]

Just got my bike back for carb work and now i may have found a new problem. 2001 Suzuki badit 600, 40,000 miles.
I was in 3rd gear and going about 20-25mph and i was going to pass a car turning left and i rolled on the gas. The bike started to accelerate a little but as i rolled the gas farther i heard the engine suddenly rev hgher without me accelerating more. This happened for just a breif second. A little stumped i started playing with it as i was driving and i found that if i gave it a lot of gas in 3rd gear while i was accelerating the engine would rev higher for a sec without the bike accelerating. It seemed like some gear or something in the clutch was slipping. Do clutches or gears start to slip as they get older? Im not real familiar with how manual transmissions work so i dont know what might be happening but it seems like something is slipping since the engine revs higher for a second.
This thing wasnt real obvious, im not sure but it might have happened in 4th gear too. Ive had the bike since 12,000 miles and never had any clutch or transmission work done on it. I dont usually ride my bike real hard either. The problem arrose during medium to heavy acceleration, not normal kine.

Any thoughts?

[hotcargo]

1st - you might try and adjust your clutch cable to get a bit of freeplay at your lever
2nd - if still no good , take it to a couple of good recomended bike mechanics to get an honest opinion
yes a clutch will wear out to the point it needs replacement , but I would say it may only need adjustment of the cable considering your usage .......Cheers .....Steve in Oz

[Clint]

I agree, though if the cable's adjusted properly and the oil's in good condition, I'd just assume it's worn and replace the clutch disks. PM Blade from his vendor forum about replacement parts.

Edit: The fiber disks should be around $12 from a dealer. You can reuse the steel disks if they're in good shape.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by hotcargo

1st - you might try and adjust your clutch cable to get a bit of freeplay at your lever
2nd - if still no good , take it to a couple of good recomended bike mechanics to get an honest opinion
yes a clutch will wear out to the point it needs replacement , but I would say it may only need adjustment of the cable considering your usage .......Cheers .....Steve in Oz

What kind of oil do you use and when was it last changed?

[Harry Palmer]

40.000 miles,could be synthetic oil,but if it were mine,I would buy a new clutch,fibers and steel,then a new cable,fil it up with some 10w40 castrol,and ride another 40 thousand. Oh yeh i'd put the springs in new too,

[eyeeatingfish]

I think i use a partial synthetic in a grey bottle from sweden or something. Its not your average baseline oil.

Is it easy to work on the clutch? The symptoms I am describing are a clutch issue though right?
Just spent 500 for a shop to overhaul my carbs and id prefer to save money on this one.


Hey rowdy, i see that little map with lines that look like they are routes you travelled. Did you do that on a bandit? My arms start to get sore after 2 hours on my bandit.

[Clint]

Yup, I did. It takes conditioning and will power. You can click on my signature to read about the '06 trip.

Buy yourself a Clymer and quit paying for that bike twice. Clutch work is relatively straight-forward.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by eyeeatingfish

I think i use a partial synthetic in a grey bottle from sweden or something. Its not your average baseline oil.

Is it specifically for motorcycle use?

If not or you are unsure, I think I'd spend the $10 or so and put in some non-synthetic cycle oil first before tearing the clutch apart. Chances are good, mind you, that the clutch does need a rebuild (or will real soon) but checking the free play in the cable and changing the oil might postpone it a while longer.

A clutch rebuild is not to bad if:

1) You have some mechanical ability and experience.
2) You have a shop manual specific to your model
and
3) You have some degree of patience.

If any of those is missing, I'd advise saving up and have somebody else do it.
It can be daunting for a complete newbie.

[eyeeatingfish]

Its a oil specific to motorcycles. I think it was $35 a gallon or so.

I have a decent amount of tools.
I have a shop manual specific to my bike.
I have some degree of patience.
I took my carps out and put them back in, and i do my own brakework...

I also have some degree of messing things up.

If something starts slipping is it a specific piece or should i change a bunch of parts?

[palanon]

I'm not quite sure but, I believe the 2001 B6 has a hydraulic brake system. Before going to crazy, I would try cleaning the clutch mechanism.

On the left side of the bike you will see the clutch piston/diaphragm mounted on the front sprocket cover ( look for hydraulic clutch line ). Remove the sprocket cover/ clutch assembly as a unit ( don't disconnect hoses or anything else ). On the back side of the cover you will see the clutch piston, a round assembly with a small hole. When you squeeze the clutch, this piston pushes against a small rod that goes into the case to the left of the sprocket.

Clean the cover and actuator/piston assembly thoroughly. As you'll see, this area gets really crudded up with crap from the chain. Then pull out the round metal rod and clean that also. Reassemble and test.

It doesn't take much grit to make the actuator/piston hang up. WD 40 works great for cleaning up this area.

If this doesn't work, you'll probably need to replace the clutch disk (s). You can usually reuse the metal disks. You just need to replace the fiber ones. Just ask the vendor/dealer for a clutch pack for your bike.

Let's just hope it's grit binding thing's up. Good luck !!

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by palanon

I'm not quite sure but, I believe the 2001 B6 has a hydraulic brake system.

And maybe a hydraulic CLUTCH too!

Maybe that's why he hasn't responded to the suggestions about adjusting the cable!

Good advise here. Better than any I could give so I bow out!

[Clint]

No, it doesn't.

[eyeeatingfish]

I went and looked in my repair manual, it shows me what i need to measure and whatnot but i dont see a section on how to remove it or a diagram on what it all looks like. Maybe that is in a different section, ill look again. EDIT: ok i found a diagram... it helps but made me confused too.
A few questions.
Is there oil in the clutch system or can i leave the oil in the engine while working on the clutch?
So if the clutch cable isnt done right this can cause slipping? Im guessing too tight and there wont be enough force? Maybe im not even understanding how a clutch works hehe.
Is the starter clutch seperate or the same system?
To an untrained eye is worn parts going to be easy to identify? Once i open it all up how do i know what is normal and what isnt?
Could it be a transmission problem? or is what im describing the clutch slipping?

[Clint]

The engine oil is also the clutch and transmission oil. You'll have to remove some or all of it. What manual do you have? This should all be spelled out.

If there isn't at least a small amount of free play in the cable, it may not be allowing the clutch spring to fully press the plates together. This is critical.

Starter clutch? Say what now?

You're definitely experiencing clutch slipping. What the cause and solution are is what you're investigating.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by eyeeatingfish

So if the clutch cable isnt done right this can cause slipping? Im guessing too tight and there wont be enough force?

After all this discussion, you still have not checked the clutch lever free-play?? If there is no slack, it may not allow the plates to mesh completely and might cause slipping.
You must do this immediately; no food, no sleep, no sunsets on the beach and no sex until you do !!!!

Originally Posted by eyeeatingfish

Maybe im not even understanding how a clutch works hehe.

This is probably NOT a good sign!

[palanon]

What they said. Oh, the starter clutch is just that, the starter clutch in the starter motor.

[Clint]

Never heard it called that, and I've changed several in my day. Which part is the "clutch", exactly?

Edit: Just checked my Clymer, and you're correct, of course. I'll be danged.

[eyeeatingfish]

I havent checked it yet cause ive been working, but i havent been driving the bike either.
Ill check the play soon, maybe tomorrow. What kind of play am i looking for? Should the level freely just go back and forth or should there be a little bit of tension before you can really feel the lever start topull tight?

But as I understand it, as i pull the clutch lever the first couple milimeters or whatever shouldnt be tight/engaging anything? It shouldnt be taught right from the getgo?

And when i said i dont understand clutchs, i meant i dont really have a mental 3d image of how they do their thing. I have a mental image of how a piston and valves and camshaft work though.

I dont like the idea of draining the oil but i guess i could always just put it right back in since its brand new anyway.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by eyeeatingfish

But as I understand it, as i pull the clutch lever the first couple milimeters or whatever shouldnt be tight/engaging anything? It shouldnt be taught right from the getgo?

Yep, that's right. There should be a tiny bit of travel where it is completely loose. You should be able to move the lever back and forth that tiny bit with no effort at all. The adjustment, if needed, is right there at the end of the cable where it connects to the lever assembly.

[eyeeatingfish]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Yep, that's right. There should be a tiny bit of travel where it is completely loose. You should be able to move the lever back and forth that tiny bit with no effort at all. The adjustment, if needed, is right there at the end of the cable where it connects to the lever assembly.

I checked the tension, and the lever wouldnt move at all with very slight pressure. Alright i let in the cable so that there was lever play. My guide said about 10-15mm and i got roughly about there. Lets hope that solves the problem. Ill ride it saturday and if there are any problems ill mention it again here.

I dont know how it would have gotten that way unless some mechaninc not knowing what he was dooing played with it.