Need huge help 05' YZ125 Clutch mechanics - Motorcycle-Journal Forums

orangetrip · 02-17-2007, 10:08 PM

Hello everybody! My 2005 YZ125 is breaking the clutch's push rod and push lever axle. I bought new parts and during the first minute test the bike broke them again. Sympthom: The clutch gets stuck "dead". Someone help me!!! If you know someone who should know please tell him my email is amoreno@onelinkpr.net. There are some pictures so you can see whats happenning. Thanks to all for your help!!!

Aussie Steve · 02-19-2007, 05:48 PM

Hi Orangetrip

I sent an email to you direct hope it helps!.

Steve

**Clint** · 02-19-2007, 07:10 PM

This is a forum. Please ask questions and post answers in the forum. It doesn't help anyone if we merely serve as an email catalog.

Aussie Steve · 02-20-2007, 05:34 PM

Hey Rowdy

Here is the gist of the message I sent....

The spratchet valve modulator is possibly the problem. If you removed the grimlett lever before releasing the booblier washers then you will need to reset the niblicki...(is that spelt right?) arm before operating the clutch.

Truth be known..... I wasn't sure what I was looking at from his pics and I wanted to find out from him direct what he had done so I could offer some help on the forum......Please Please Pleaseeee Mr Red don't smack me!!!! (Oh and that is definatly NOT what I emailed him.

Only joking Red...must be withdrawal symtoms...not be able to ride and all!!!

Steve

**Clint** · 02-20-2007, 05:50 PM

Why, I oughtta! J/K. Thanks for posting.

orangetrip · 02-22-2007, 09:58 PM

Thanks Aussie and Red but I am in the same place.

Here is the URL address of yamaha parts:

http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx

Motorcycle/2005/YZ125 YZ 125 T1

The parts in my pictures are #22 and #23

Why they are breaking? I need your help!

Thanks to all!!!

Aussie Steve · 02-23-2007, 03:31 AM

Sorry Orangetrip couldn't get the page to work...can you perhaps download the info to this forum and then I may be able to get some idea of how the clutch mechanism works on your particular bike. I reckon the actuation point on the engine case may be the problem if the lever and distance piece is meant to be in one piece.

Post back and give me some more pointers if you can! Meanwhuile I will try the site again

Steve

Aussie Steve · 02-23-2007, 03:41 AM

Hey Orangetrip I managed to get into the site and see the pics of your clutch. I see the pushrod ends and your original pics you posted showed the end broken off correct???

If you can leave this with me for a while to let me have a think. The clutch seems to have a couple of bearings I did not expect.

Steve

Aussie Steve · 02-23-2007, 04:08 AM

Orangetrip

Check the following.

Part #24 bearing.... is it seized this would cause the lever to be very hard to operate, although how the rod gets broken is hard for me to figure.

In your first pics you show a rod, part #22, a lever, part #23 and another small item.....what is that!.... I am assuming it is the old rod end as the online parts only show a rod....part #22 with one end turned down to a lesser diameter.

Have you replaced the ball bearing in the other end... leaving this out may cause the rod to break.

In your first post you state the clutch "gets stuck dead"...how do you mean...does it start to seperate and then stop causing the rod to break? Is the clutch lever on the handlebars very hard to pull? Check the bearing # 18 to see if it is seized I am assuming the long rod passes thru this and works against the secondary short push rod part #17

Make sure there is clearance between the outer case and the clutch pressure plate part #8 so the clutch can operate.

Make absolutly sure you have the parts 19 and 11 in the correct place...you haven't swapped them around???? the washer plate # 11 looks like it is larger and therefore would allow certain parts to slide. If this is not in the correct place or out of alignment the clutch would jam and possibly cause a breakage.

Having looked at the pics of the clutch mechanism it is fairly straight forward. The lever moves allowing the "cam" end to push against the rod therbye applying a seperating motion to the clutch plates.

There cannot be any major problem if the clutch is re-assembled in the correct order. I strongly suspect the washer plate is not in its correct position causing the clutch push rod to attempt to seperate the plates but not run throught the washer.

Keep us posted as to your fix!

regards

Steve

Aussie Steve · 02-23-2007, 05:10 AM

Orangetrip

Just got back from taking my dogs out...to the river to cool off...Red eat your heart out!!!!...got to thinking is part #17 in the right way round and is it behind the bearing #18 as per the diagram. Also are there any bits left out...nothing worse than finding "extra bits" when you have re-assembled!

S

orangetrip · 02-25-2007, 07:19 PM

Many thanks Steve for all your help!

I am going to check, specially the washer thing, and keep you all posted.

What is really strange for me is that, if we reassembled it in the wrong way, why it broke exactly as the first time?

02-17-2007, 10:08 PM	#1 (permalink)
orangetrip Newbie Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 3	Need huge help 05' YZ125 Clutch mechanics Hello everybody! My 2005 YZ125 is breaking the clutch's push rod and push lever axle. I bought new parts and during the first minute test the bike broke them again. Sympthom: The clutch gets stuck "dead". Someone help me!!! If you know someone who should know please tell him my email is amoreno@onelinkpr.net. There are some pictures so you can see whats happenning. Thanks to all for your help!!! Attached Thumbnails

02-19-2007, 05:48 PM	#2 (permalink)
Aussie Steve U.B's LoveChild Joined: Jan 2007 Bike: 02 1200 Bandit Location: Western Australia Posts: 1,206	Hi Orangetrip I sent an email to you direct hope it helps!. Steve __________________ Just remember you ARE entitled to my opinion!!!!

02-20-2007, 05:34 PM	#4 (permalink)
Aussie Steve U.B's LoveChild Joined: Jan 2007 Bike: 02 1200 Bandit Location: Western Australia Posts: 1,206	Hey Rowdy Here is the gist of the message I sent.... The spratchet valve modulator is possibly the problem. If you removed the grimlett lever before releasing the booblier washers then you will need to reset the niblicki...(is that spelt right?) arm before operating the clutch. Truth be known..... I wasn't sure what I was looking at from his pics and I wanted to find out from him direct what he had done so I could offer some help on the forum......Please Please Pleaseeee Mr Red don't smack me!!!! (Oh and that is definatly NOT what I emailed him. Only joking Red...must be withdrawal symtoms...not be able to ride and all!!! Steve __________________ Just remember you ARE entitled to my opinion!!!!

02-22-2007, 09:58 PM	#6 (permalink)
orangetrip Newbie Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 3	Maybe this will help you to help me! Thanks Aussie and Red but I am in the same place. Here is the URL address of yamaha parts: http://www.yamaha-motor.com/sport/parts/home.aspx Motorcycle/2005/YZ125 YZ 125 T1 The parts in my pictures are #22 and #23 Why they are breaking? I need your help! Thanks to all!!! Last edited by orangetrip; 02-22-2007 at 10:01 PM.

02-23-2007, 03:31 AM	#7 (permalink)
Aussie Steve U.B's LoveChild Joined: Jan 2007 Bike: 02 1200 Bandit Location: Western Australia Posts: 1,206	Sorry Orangetrip couldn't get the page to work...can you perhaps download the info to this forum and then I may be able to get some idea of how the clutch mechanism works on your particular bike. I reckon the actuation point on the engine case may be the problem if the lever and distance piece is meant to be in one piece. Post back and give me some more pointers if you can! Meanwhuile I will try the site again Steve __________________ Just remember you ARE entitled to my opinion!!!!

02-23-2007, 03:41 AM	#8 (permalink)
Aussie Steve U.B's LoveChild Joined: Jan 2007 Bike: 02 1200 Bandit Location: Western Australia Posts: 1,206	Hey Orangetrip I managed to get into the site and see the pics of your clutch. I see the pushrod ends and your original pics you posted showed the end broken off correct??? If you can leave this with me for a while to let me have a think. The clutch seems to have a couple of bearings I did not expect. Steve __________________ Just remember you ARE entitled to my opinion!!!!

02-23-2007, 04:08 AM	#9 (permalink)
Aussie Steve U.B's LoveChild Joined: Jan 2007 Bike: 02 1200 Bandit Location: Western Australia Posts: 1,206	Orangetrip Check the following. Part #24 bearing.... is it seized this would cause the lever to be very hard to operate, although how the rod gets broken is hard for me to figure. In your first pics you show a rod, part #22, a lever, part #23 and another small item.....what is that!.... I am assuming it is the old rod end as the online parts only show a rod....part #22 with one end turned down to a lesser diameter. Have you replaced the ball bearing in the other end... leaving this out may cause the rod to break. In your first post you state the clutch "gets stuck dead"...how do you mean...does it start to seperate and then stop causing the rod to break? Is the clutch lever on the handlebars very hard to pull? Check the bearing # 18 to see if it is seized I am assuming the long rod passes thru this and works against the secondary short push rod part #17 Make sure there is clearance between the outer case and the clutch pressure plate part #8 so the clutch can operate. Make absolutly sure you have the parts 19 and 11 in the correct place...you haven't swapped them around???? the washer plate # 11 looks like it is larger and therefore would allow certain parts to slide. If this is not in the correct place or out of alignment the clutch would jam and possibly cause a breakage. Having looked at the pics of the clutch mechanism it is fairly straight forward. The lever moves allowing the "cam" end to push against the rod therbye applying a seperating motion to the clutch plates. There cannot be any major problem if the clutch is re-assembled in the correct order. I strongly suspect the washer plate is not in its correct position causing the clutch push rod to attempt to seperate the plates but not run throught the washer. Keep us posted as to your fix! regards Steve __________________ Just remember you ARE entitled to my opinion!!!!

02-23-2007, 05:10 AM	#10 (permalink)
Aussie Steve U.B's LoveChild Joined: Jan 2007 Bike: 02 1200 Bandit Location: Western Australia Posts: 1,206	Orangetrip Just got back from taking my dogs out...to the river to cool off...Red eat your heart out!!!!...got to thinking is part #17 in the right way round and is it behind the bearing #18 as per the diagram. Also are there any bits left out...nothing worse than finding "extra bits" when you have re-assembled! S __________________ Just remember you ARE entitled to my opinion!!!!

02-25-2007, 07:19 PM	#11 (permalink)
orangetrip Newbie Joined: Feb 2007 Posts: 3	Many thanks Steve for all your help! I am going to check, specially the washer thing, and keep you all posted. What is really strange for me is that, if we reassembled it in the wrong way, why it broke exactly as the first time?

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