Replacing a chain & sprockets

[D_Klein]

Here are the photos and notes from my repair. It was my first time replacing a chain and sprockets, so I encourage the experts to tell me what I did wrong (or praise me for a job well done!).

The bike is an '05 GSX-R750 with 16k+ miles that I purchased new. The dang thing was making some very scary "popping" noises upon acceleration from 0 mph, and I knew for certain that the chain was TOAST. Unfortunately, xmas expenditures prevented me from purchasing the mandatory $100 chain tool until now. Living in Phoenix, where it is possible to ride all year long, I felt guilty for having my bike cooped up in the garage, and never before have I gone more than a week without riding. I've been having withdrawals in the worst way! Needless to say, I'm a happy motorcyclist now that the job is done.


Before I forget... match-mark the shift linkage!

-Remove shift linkage
-Remove left fairing
-Remove sprocket cover


Fully loosen tensioners


CRUD CITY!!! I should really get in here and clean more often.


Grinding the pin to be removed
Note: This step was not necessary for a 525 chain (per the instructions of the chain tool manufacturer), but I did it anyway to avoid the possibility of breaking the installation/removal pin, and because air tools are fun.


The ground pin


Removing the drive sprocket with breaker bar
Note: I had a friend ready to apply the rear brakes to avoid the sprocket from spinning, but the nut was so loose that it wasn't necessary. NOTE TO SELF: re-check nut torque within the next 300 miles (blue threadlocker applied upon installation).

[D_Klein]

Removing the pin


Old drive sprocket vs. new
This is where I caught a snag. I spent a noteable amount of time comparing the two parts since they're clearly different. When all is assembled, the two end up dimensionally identical, but I was very unsure about the difference in composition; the new sprocket is a solid steel part, whereas the stock sprocket is comprised of three parts; the steel spline center, the steel sprocket, and a hard rubber compound joining the two. I just about gave up on the job, but fortunately a trusted friend was available online and he assured me that the difference between the two parts are negligible. Onward.


CLEAN!!!
Note: I used brake cleaner after removing the major gunk by hand. I'm not sure if that's a safe solvent to use in this area, but I'll soon find out!

-Remove rear wheel
-Remove rear sprocket
-Install NEW rear sprocket


Reinstalling nuts in crosswise fashion to specified torque
(Suzuki shop manual does not specify threadlocker; special locking nuts are used)


Installing new sprocket, washer, & blue Loctite


Installing engine sprocket nut; torque to 83.5 lb-ft

[D_Klein]

Removing extra links
(A keen eye can tell from this picture a minor lack of attention to detail on my behalf)


Chains stretch. A LOT.
Same number of links, huge difference in length. (New chain on LEFT)


Installing the new link

-Use chain tool to "rivet" installed pins.
-Use calipers to measure riveted pin heads (5.45mm - 5.85mm dia.)
-Adjust chain tension & rear wheel alignment
-Put everything else back together
-DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING!!! Torque specs, extra parts, muffler bearings, etc.
-Test ride
-Clean up
-Have a beer.

The job turned out to be a snap, aside from how long it took me; but I'd rather spend twice as long on an unfamiliar job making sure I do it right. I'm sure that I'll be able to do it twice as quick next time around. The test ride went well; I checked the chain tension at the end of the street, then a mile and a half later, and everything seemed to be normal. Got on the highway, everything's good.

Oh yeah, and what repair would be complete without a good knuckle-duster?!

[Clint]

Awesome writeup. My only question is why you didn't think you needed the cushioned front sprocket. Obviously it was there to absorb driveline shock. Have you ridden the bike enough since to tell whether there's a difference?

[SKTR]

Hey Dennis, Agree with Clint on the quality of your project and the write up. I changed the drive sprocket on mine as well (added 1 tooth). Used the cheaper sprocket too ($20 vs $120 at my stealership). Have put approx 5k on the ride since the changeout and have only positive comments, including no noticeable driveline shock. Since I'm an oldtimer and riding a Marauder, I may not torque test it as you may. Can only say I'm pleased with mine and wish you well with your changeout. Jim

[D_Klein]

I actually cancelled the procedure for about an hour because I was so heavily in doubt about whether or not the lack of the rubber "buffer" would have any ill effects. A trusted friend assured me that the differences would be negligible, if any (confirmed by a call to the service department of my local stealership).

The jerk at Cycle Gear who ordered my parts for me gave me a rear sprocket with one less tooth on it, so aside from the difference there, the throttle does seem just a tiny bit more responsive.

Also for the record, there is a rubber buffer to absorb driveline shock within the rear hub. If this weren't the case, I would've shot down the aftermarket sprocket, no question.

[Clint]

OK. I wasn't sure if your bike had the hub damper as well. Good 'nuff.

[pgman]

I read this thread with great interest because I recently bought a used 2001 VZ800 Marauder with a newer chain and sprocket set. The dealer doing the chain and sprockets put non-OEM sprockets on, I think, because the adjustment is all the way back and there is less than 1000 miles on the chain. The bike has V&H pipes and re-jetted carbs - is it common to put non-OEM sprockets on to supplement an exhaust / carb upgrade? I can't imagine the chain streched this much so quickly. Anyway, to be on the safe side, I want to change the chain and sprockets real soon and make sure they are OEM spec.

My bike has an O-ring chain - what tool(s) do I need to do this job? I have a shop manual for it so I know what Suzuki says I need, but I am not sure if I will need to press links on the new chain or what. Also, I am not sure what brand / type of chain and sprockets to buy so any suggestions would be appreciated.

[D_Klein]

pgman, replacing the stock sprockets doesn't necessarily go hand-in-hand with an exhaust/carb upgrade, but it'll give you more torque or horsepower depending on whether you go larger or smaller than stock.

However, if your chain is adjusted all the way back, then I'd be inclined to believe that you may have one more link than necessary on the chain. Changing gear ratios prompts the addition or subtraction of one more more links, respectively. Given your current setup, I think you should address the issue with your mechanic; chain tension needs to be tightened as time passes, and you're not able to do that if your rear wheel is adjusted all the way to to the rear of the bike.

To replace an existing chain, you'll need a chain tool with a riveter attachment; I got mine for $90 at Cycle Gear. I had to save up the cash, but specialty tools are invaluable if you know you'll use them more than once. I don't know much about the different brands of chains, but I used an RK and I'm very happy with it's performance after 5,000 miles. If you'll be returning to the stock gearing, you may have to do some research and/or some guess & check to ensure that you have the correct amount of links on the chain.

Good luck!

[pgman]

Thank you, Dr. D!

I talked to someone at Bike Bandit about this and they were very helpful. They recommended an RK brand chain and I know from my shop manual how many teeth and links are in the OEM gearing. I just wonder why the shop that did this changeout didn't do it right. What I need to do now, though, is count teeth. I should think that only the front sprocket was downsized because my assumption is cruiser bikes can never have enough grunt off the line. If my mechanical knowledge is correct, a smaller rear sprocket would make the bike tach less on the highway with the trade off being less zing from stop light to stop light. A smaller front sprocket would make it quicker. As it is, the thing wants to pick the front weel up if I twist too hard. I could do with a little less of that!

Also, since this bike has no tachometer, I can't tell for sure but it does sound like it is turning over quite rapidly when I get up to 55 or 60 (which I have only done once or twice - I am still new to this riding thing). Then again, it IS a (relatively) small V-twin cruiser. I know these are not particularly suited to a lot of high-speed running. If I had to guess, I would say that the front sprocket is a tooth or two smaller than OEM - causing my saggy chain. If I find out that this is true, can I just put an OEM size back on there and keep using the chain I have now? I know it only has about 1200 miles on it. Or, is it $50 well-spent having the peace of mind of a new chain? I don't know the good or bad of it. I have heard that neglected chains can fail and cause catastrophic things to happen.

I would prefer to do this work myself because a Honda / Saki dealer did it originally and (obviously) didn't exactly do the math right. I realize, of course, that chains are not specific to any brand of bike, but my point is that I don't really trust these guys. Maybe they saw a zuki in their shop and just didn't care to do a good job - or perhaps they didn't have the right service manual. All I know is that there is no Suzuki dealer near me, and the one that is within a 45 minute drive is kinda lousy (their attitude). THAT is the only reason I was reluctant to buy the Suzuki in the first place.

With an O-ring chain, there is no "master link" and I need a pressing tool of some sort to connect the ends correct??? Is that this "chain tool with riveter attachment"? Sorry I am so ignorant - I want to learn this stuff so I don't do it wrong (and possibly kill someone). Can the chain be assembled on the bench and installed on the bike whole, or do the ends of the chain have to be married while it is installed? Finally, what type of alignment tool is best. I've seen laser ones which are really cool, but can a simple clamp-on one work just as well?


Really finally, I have read about some sort of lube for O-ring chains that doesn't splatter all over the place. Can anyone tell me again what that is and where you buy it?

[Blade]

The dampening in the rear hub is called a cush drive.

[karlfitt]

Originally Posted by pgman

Thank you, Dr. D!

I talked to someone at Bike Bandit about this and they were very helpful. They recommended an RK brand chain and I know from my shop manual how many teeth and links are in the OEM gearing. I just wonder why the shop that did this changeout didn't do it right. What I need to do now, though, is count teeth. I should think that only the front sprocket was downsized because my assumption is cruiser bikes can never have enough grunt off the line. If my mechanical knowledge is correct, a smaller rear sprocket would make the bike tach less on the highway with the trade off being less zing from stop light to stop light. A smaller front sprocket would make it quicker. As it is, the thing wants to pick the front weel up if I twist too hard. I could do with a little less of that!

Also, since this bike has no tachometer, I can't tell for sure but it does sound like it is turning over quite rapidly when I get up to 55 or 60 (which I have only done once or twice - I am still new to this riding thing). Then again, it IS a (relatively) small V-twin cruiser. I know these are not particularly suited to a lot of high-speed running. If I had to guess, I would say that the front sprocket is a tooth or two smaller than OEM - causing my saggy chain. If I find out that this is true, can I just put an OEM size back on there and keep using the chain I have now? I know it only has about 1200 miles on it. Or, is it $50 well-spent having the peace of mind of a new chain? I don't know the good or bad of it. I have heard that neglected chains can fail and cause catastrophic things to happen.

I would prefer to do this work myself because a Honda / Saki dealer did it originally and (obviously) didn't exactly do the math right. I realize, of course, that chains are not specific to any brand of bike, but my point is that I don't really trust these guys. Maybe they saw a zuki in their shop and just didn't care to do a good job - or perhaps they didn't have the right service manual. All I know is that there is no Suzuki dealer near me, and the one that is within a 45 minute drive is kinda lousy (their attitude). THAT is the only reason I was reluctant to buy the Suzuki in the first place.


It is better to learn how to work on your own bike anyway. i feel it is part of ownership. And you know the job was done right.


With an O-ring chain, there is no "master link" and I need a pressing tool of some sort to connect the ends correct??? Is that this "chain tool with riveter attachment"? Sorry I am so ignorant - I want to learn this stuff so I don't do it wrong (and possibly kill someone). Can the chain be assembled on the bench and installed on the bike whole, or do the ends of the chain have to be married while it is installed? Finally, what type of alignment tool is best. I've seen laser ones which are really cool, but can a simple clamp-on one work just as well?


The chain must be put together on the bike, bike frame prevents taking off and putting on the chain in one piece.
For alignment tool, I just use my eyes. Lye down and look down the chain as it runs from rear sproket to front, isi ti straight?

And yes, chain tool with riveter attachment.


Really finally, I have read about some sort of lube for O-ring chains that doesn't splatter all over the place. Can anyone tell me again what that is and where you buy it?

I just installed a Pro-Oiler on my bike. kind of expensive, but so far I like the convenience, and my chain and rear rim are much cleaner than using spray on oils.