ATTENTION ALL M50 OWNERS! My issue resolved! FIX YOURS NOW B4 IT'S TO LATE! - Page 6 - Motorcycle-Journal Forums

Quantumcat · 08-27-2009, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burnchassis

I used water proof marine wheel bearing grease.Water does nothing to this stuff,you can't wash it off your hands.

I gotta agree with marine grease for places where water might be an issue. Not that I'm some lubricant expert, but I've never had a problem yet (knock on wood

).

I bought a tub of Bel-Ray marine grease years ago and it sits alongside my moly and lithium based greases. Unless you're replacing a lot of wheel bearings or headsets, it should last a decade or two.

burnchassis · 08-27-2009, 09:23 PM

Well I gave up on splicing,and just uploaded 13 short videos.
Remember no rips on my red-neck-ish type way of doin things.

taiguy · 08-28-2009, 05:45 AM

great videos! You really make it seem not so intimidating.

I just bought my 07 m50 and have been riding the hell out of it the past week. I'm coming up on my 600 mi tune up so this seems like a great time to check on the final drive gear shaft as well.

Assuming everything is still in working order (just dry) what parts do I need to order from the dealer? I might as well be thorough and grease up everything I can while the bike's apart.

I see the oil seal on page 4-11 (part no. 23). Is there anything else?

Any special tools I should order as well? I see the snap ring pliers on page 4-13, the 22mm long socket, and the final drive gear coupling holder on page 4-14. Are these necessary or can I just go swing by harbor freight?

Thanks again for your documentation on this!

burnchassis · 08-28-2009, 08:52 AM

I got by with only the 22mm long socket.
My gear holder was the wheel on the ground,and the 2x4.
I used a small flat head screwdriver to beat the snap ring in.
Those tools make it easier,but I didn't need them.
Oil seal is all you will need to replace,if just greasing that spline.
Thanks
CS

mrlmd · 08-28-2009, 10:06 AM

The question was asked before, and never answered. Do you think this applies to the S50 too?
Wouldn't Dr. Bob know about this?

cchriste · 08-28-2009, 11:11 AM

That looks soooooo easy. I am only worried about taking the rear tire off. Once I do that, its only a few bolts and an oil seal to get off. I think I can do it. I still wish I were close enough to you so I could come over and beg for your help

I'll give it a shot anyway.

This may be in the thread anyway, but is there a parts list for only the seal, o-rings, tension clip, grease to use....and I guess that's it. I want to get the exact stuff. Thanks for all the hard work and vids....I would never even attempt it without the help you have provided.

Edit: Never mind...I see the grease you used just a few posts up. I just need the parts then.

burnchassis · 08-28-2009, 11:13 AM

Not sure,but I think it was answered.I think It will apply to any bike using that same shaft drive....and very possibly other shaft drive models,that are sealed like that.Bottom line is ,Check it out it will only take a few minutes.If your shaft,and primary are rusted,you will be able to tell before you cut off that seal.Set the drive on the ground,so the shaft is facing up,then take your hand and slap the top of the shaft compressing the spring,and forcing it into the drive.If you have a problem you will see rust dust fly out....I had a ton of dust in mine. Dust can come out...so that's how the water is getting in.
I am no expert,so I do not know how many or what kind bikes are involved.In fact, I had no clue what I was doing in this repair,but I'wasn't scared to try.
I'll gladly try to answer any questions I know the answer to.
CS

burnchassis · 08-28-2009, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cchriste

That looks soooooo easy. I am only worried about taking the rear tire off. Once I do that, its only a few bolts and an oil seal to get off. I think I can do it. I still wish I were close enough to you so I could come over and beg for your help

I'll give it a shot anyway.

This may be in the thread anyway, but is there a parts list for only the seal, o-rings, tension clip, grease to use....and I guess that's it. I want to get the exact stuff. Thanks for all the hard work and vids....I would never even attempt it without the help you have provided.

Edit: Never mind...I see the grease you used just a few posts up. I just need the parts then.

If your not broken,all you will need is that oil seal..and maybe some gasket maker to help seal the final drive to the bike.
For those that may still be scared to try,I offer my services to you free.All you need to do is get it to me.

CS

camaleon · 08-28-2009, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burnchassis

If your not broken,all you will need is that oil seal..and maybe some gasket maker to help seal the final drive to the bike.
For those that may still be scared to try,I offer my services to you free.All you need to do is get it to me.

CS

never like the free stuff!

when the times comes, I will send it to you with a fee for your work!

deal?

RED-M · 08-28-2009, 01:51 PM

Burn,
You ARE the man ! Nice videos, exceptional problem solving... and a positive attitude got you back on the road...great job!

rogerl · 08-28-2009, 03:26 PM

Burn:
I just watched your videos and I am glad to see you put your shoes on BEFORE you took the bike for a ride.

Roger L

burnchassis · 08-28-2009, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rogerl

Burn:
I just watched your videos and I am glad to see you put your shoes on BEFORE you took the bike for a ride.

Roger L

lol
Only because the road is hot,and that darn brake lever is studded...jk
I didn't think Icould make it without 1 good rip.

CS

rogerl · 08-28-2009, 09:22 PM

I am VERY anal about wearing shoes. My wife and son come into my workshop without shoes and I send them packing. When I ask my wife to help me with somthing I always tell her "and put on some shoes". Seeing you wrenching on your bike without shoes was like fingernails on the chalkboard. Well to each his own I guess.

Roger L

draf · 08-29-2009, 12:29 PM

Great videos, Burn! THANKS A LOT, MAN!!!
It really seems easy what you did, but I know it will take me a whole day to do it, but I will certainly do it this winter. I have ordered the oil gasket and I'll take it today from the shop.
Thank you very much for sharing all this with us! You rock!

burnchassis · 08-29-2009, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by draf

Great videos, Burn! THANKS A LOT, MAN!!!
It really seems easy what you did, but I know it will take me a whole day to do it, but I will certainly do it this winter. I have ordered the oil gasket and I'll take it today from the shop.
Thank you very much for sharing all this with us! You rock!

You guys are all very welcome!
I'm sure that 90% of you would do the same thing for others If given the chance.

CS

spikes · 08-29-2009, 02:00 PM

Nice job on everything Burn !! Went and checked on mine today ,turns out mine did have the same problem as you, they tore the motor and tranny down to find pretty much nothing.
Anyways the parts are on back order from Suzuki, hopefully they'll be in this week, I'm goin' out of my freakin' mind !!

burnchassis · 08-29-2009, 02:06 PM

OMG SPIKES!!!!!

Same thing even after you told them to double check it??????
Them BASTARDS!
You need to have that dealership call suzuki and announce this problem .
There will be a recall on it if there is enough documentation on it.
Please force them to make a report of it ...explain I did the same thing,and Suzuki needs to take care of it before someone dies!
Stay on top of them to be sure they call please!
Then take it home,and fix it yourself! lol
They surely won't charge you the 15 + hours labor for a engine removal/split...will they??
CS

spikes · 08-29-2009, 05:26 PM

It's gonna cost about $1200 . I jumped the gun , thought it was the tranny. Gave the bike to the shop the day after it happened.
On the up side of this, I asked how everything in the engine was, A+ !! Tensioners, clutch(original-60,000 kms) the only thing was some carbon build up on top of the pistons. Maybe running a little rich or babying it (no bloody way) !!
I guess that's the cost of education !! From here on in it' s me, the manual and a case of beer !! ( and Burn if a house comes up for rent in your neighborhood I'm movin'

burnchassis · 08-29-2009, 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPIKES

It's gonna cost about $1200 . I jumped the gun , thought it was the tranny. Gave the bike to the shop the day after it happened.
On the up side of this, I asked how everything in the engine was, A+ !! Tensioners, clutch(original-60,000 kms) the only thing was some carbon build up on top of the pistons. Maybe running a little rich or babying it (no bloody way) !!
I guess that's the cost of education !! From here on in it' s me, the manual and a case of beer !! ( and Burn if a house comes up for rent in your neighborhood I'm movin'

Ouch my total was $83 for diagnosis $140 for parts $35 for overnighting them.
$258.00 to do it yourself.
or
less then $10 to prevent it.
Sorry bro,but at least now you'll be riding soon.Let m guess....1 week for parts?
BoulevardSuzuki.com, Suzuki parts & Suzuki accessories, The #1 Suzuki Motorcycle Parts and Accessories Shop
Did you have your shop call the Suzuki recall line to report this?
CS

spikes · 08-29-2009, 10:20 PM

Ya they're going to call them and I'll be calling and faxing a copy of the bill also when the parts are in and the work is done !!
Let's hope by Friday she's back on the road and p!$$in' of the neighbors at 5am when I leave for work !

08-27-2009, 09:23 PM	#102 (permalink)
burnchassis U.B's LoveChild Join Date: Jun 2008 Bike: 2005 M50 PCIII K&N Thunder intake kit,custom pipes wrapped,DE-paired,side plate LED METZ 200 Location: Cincinnati,Ohio Posts: 1,214	Well I gave up on splicing,and just uploaded 13 short videos. Remember no rips on my red-neck-ish type way of doin things. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3UIWC...eature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWZE5...eature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugvou...eature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YuZgT...eature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TftGz...eature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChkjK...eature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUAeH...eature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBO6G...eature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDQoG...eature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Imm0x...eature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPhvP...eature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eDHv8...eature=channel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kOnBj...eature=channel Sorry it took so long ,at least you all can see what to do. CS Attached Thumbnails __________________ Rippin twisties! BIG GRIND! M50 Wheelie Grinding pegs Final drive repair HOW-TO Final drive+shaft rebuild HOW-TO Getting to the front u-joint HOW-TO Remove your drive ,and CHECK IT! HOW-TO Lumpectomy HOW TO Clutch adjust HOW TO Clutch install HOW TO Metzeler 200 tire mount/ install HOW TO Lower your front end FREE! HOW TO Lower your rear end! HOW TO Still looking for the new throttle on/off switch. QUIET PIPES RISK LIVES! Last edited by burnchassis; 08-27-2009 at 09:42 PM.

08-28-2009, 05:45 AM	#103 (permalink)
taiguy Newbie Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 15	great videos! You really make it seem not so intimidating. I just bought my 07 m50 and have been riding the hell out of it the past week. I'm coming up on my 600 mi tune up so this seems like a great time to check on the final drive gear shaft as well. Assuming everything is still in working order (just dry) what parts do I need to order from the dealer? I might as well be thorough and grease up everything I can while the bike's apart. I see the oil seal on page 4-11 (part no. 23). Is there anything else? Any special tools I should order as well? I see the snap ring pliers on page 4-13, the 22mm long socket, and the final drive gear coupling holder on page 4-14. Are these necessary or can I just go swing by harbor freight? Thanks again for your documentation on this! Last edited by taiguy; 08-28-2009 at 05:53 AM.

08-28-2009, 08:52 AM	#104 (permalink)
burnchassis U.B's LoveChild Join Date: Jun 2008 Bike: 2005 M50 PCIII K&N Thunder intake kit,custom pipes wrapped,DE-paired,side plate LED METZ 200 Location: Cincinnati,Ohio Posts: 1,214	I got by with only the 22mm long socket. My gear holder was the wheel on the ground,and the 2x4. I used a small flat head screwdriver to beat the snap ring in. Those tools make it easier,but I didn't need them. Oil seal is all you will need to replace,if just greasing that spline. Thanks CS __________________ Rippin twisties! BIG GRIND! M50 Wheelie Grinding pegs Final drive repair HOW-TO Final drive+shaft rebuild HOW-TO Getting to the front u-joint HOW-TO Remove your drive ,and CHECK IT! HOW-TO Lumpectomy HOW TO Clutch adjust HOW TO Clutch install HOW TO Metzeler 200 tire mount/ install HOW TO Lower your front end FREE! HOW TO Lower your rear end! HOW TO Still looking for the new throttle on/off switch. QUIET PIPES RISK LIVES!

08-28-2009, 11:11 AM	#106 (permalink)
cchriste Clunked into first gear Join Date: Jan 2009 Bike: 2005 M50 Black Posts: 204	That looks soooooo easy. I am only worried about taking the rear tire off. Once I do that, its only a few bolts and an oil seal to get off. I think I can do it. I still wish I were close enough to you so I could come over and beg for your help I'll give it a shot anyway. This may be in the thread anyway, but is there a parts list for only the seal, o-rings, tension clip, grease to use....and I guess that's it. I want to get the exact stuff. Thanks for all the hard work and vids....I would never even attempt it without the help you have provided. Edit: Never mind...I see the grease you used just a few posts up. I just need the parts then. __________________ Poor college student wanting the following: Gman Bully processor / K&N intake package Mustang wide seat V&H Cruisers Gi-pro with ATRE Saved up so far: $195.00

08-28-2009, 11:13 AM	#107 (permalink)
burnchassis U.B's LoveChild Join Date: Jun 2008 Bike: 2005 M50 PCIII K&N Thunder intake kit,custom pipes wrapped,DE-paired,side plate LED METZ 200 Location: Cincinnati,Ohio Posts: 1,214	Not sure,but I think it was answered.I think It will apply to any bike using that same shaft drive....and very possibly other shaft drive models,that are sealed like that.Bottom line is ,Check it out it will only take a few minutes.If your shaft,and primary are rusted,you will be able to tell before you cut off that seal.Set the drive on the ground,so the shaft is facing up,then take your hand and slap the top of the shaft compressing the spring,and forcing it into the drive.If you have a problem you will see rust dust fly out....I had a ton of dust in mine. Dust can come out...so that's how the water is getting in. I am no expert,so I do not know how many or what kind bikes are involved.In fact, I had no clue what I was doing in this repair,but I'wasn't scared to try. I'll gladly try to answer any questions I know the answer to. CS __________________ Rippin twisties! BIG GRIND! M50 Wheelie Grinding pegs Final drive repair HOW-TO Final drive+shaft rebuild HOW-TO Getting to the front u-joint HOW-TO Remove your drive ,and CHECK IT! HOW-TO Lumpectomy HOW TO Clutch adjust HOW TO Clutch install HOW TO Metzeler 200 tire mount/ install HOW TO Lower your front end FREE! HOW TO Lower your rear end! HOW TO Still looking for the new throttle on/off switch. QUIET PIPES RISK LIVES!

08-28-2009, 10:06 AM	#105 (permalink)
mrlmd Seat Tester Join Date: Dec 2007 Bike: Suzuki GZ250 - for starter, now Suzuki S50 Location: Shell Point (Crawfordville) Florida Posts: 75	The question was asked before, and never answered. Do you think this applies to the S50 too? Wouldn't Dr. Bob know about this?

08-28-2009, 01:51 PM	#110 (permalink)
RED-M Third gear and cruising Join Date: May 2008 Bike: 2005 RED M-50 Location: Central New York Posts: 508	Burn, You ARE the man ! Nice videos, exceptional problem solving... and a positive attitude got you back on the road...great job!

08-28-2009, 03:26 PM	#111 (permalink)
rogerl Clunked into first gear Join Date: Oct 2007 Bike: 2006 Silver M50 Location: Northfield, Ohio Posts: 205	Burn: I just watched your videos and I am glad to see you put your shoes on BEFORE you took the bike for a ride. Roger L

08-28-2009, 09:22 PM	#113 (permalink)
rogerl Clunked into first gear Join Date: Oct 2007 Bike: 2006 Silver M50 Location: Northfield, Ohio Posts: 205	I am VERY anal about wearing shoes. My wife and son come into my workshop without shoes and I send them packing. When I ask my wife to help me with somthing I always tell her "and put on some shoes". Seeing you wrenching on your bike without shoes was like fingernails on the chalkboard. Well to each his own I guess. Roger L

08-29-2009, 12:29 PM	#114 (permalink)
draf In Training Join Date: Jul 2007 Bike: Suzuki Boulevard M50 2006 Location: Montreal, Canada Posts: 101	Great videos, Burn! THANKS A LOT, MAN!!! It really seems easy what you did, but I know it will take me a whole day to do it, but I will certainly do it this winter. I have ordered the oil gasket and I'll take it today from the shop. Thank you very much for sharing all this with us! You rock!

08-29-2009, 02:00 PM	#116 (permalink)
spikes Sprocket Pilot Join Date: Sep 2008 Bike: Suzuki M50 Black Location: Innisfil,ON Posts: 822	Nice job on everything Burn !! Went and checked on mine today ,turns out mine did have the same problem as you, they tore the motor and tranny down to find pretty much nothing. Anyways the parts are on back order from Suzuki, hopefully they'll be in this week, I'm goin' out of my freakin' mind !! __________________ Who gave me these damn directions?

08-29-2009, 02:06 PM	#117 (permalink)
burnchassis U.B's LoveChild Join Date: Jun 2008 Bike: 2005 M50 PCIII K&N Thunder intake kit,custom pipes wrapped,DE-paired,side plate LED METZ 200 Location: Cincinnati,Ohio Posts: 1,214	OMG SPIKES!!!!! Same thing even after you told them to double check it?????? Them BASTARDS! You need to have that dealership call suzuki and announce this problem . There will be a recall on it if there is enough documentation on it. Please force them to make a report of it ...explain I did the same thing,and Suzuki needs to take care of it before someone dies! Stay on top of them to be sure they call please! Then take it home,and fix it yourself! lol They surely won't charge you the 15 + hours labor for a engine removal/split...will they?? CS __________________ Rippin twisties! BIG GRIND! M50 Wheelie Grinding pegs Final drive repair HOW-TO Final drive+shaft rebuild HOW-TO Getting to the front u-joint HOW-TO Remove your drive ,and CHECK IT! HOW-TO Lumpectomy HOW TO Clutch adjust HOW TO Clutch install HOW TO Metzeler 200 tire mount/ install HOW TO Lower your front end FREE! HOW TO Lower your rear end! HOW TO Still looking for the new throttle on/off switch. QUIET PIPES RISK LIVES! Last edited by burnchassis; 08-29-2009 at 02:10 PM.

08-29-2009, 05:26 PM	#118 (permalink)
spikes Sprocket Pilot Join Date: Sep 2008 Bike: Suzuki M50 Black Location: Innisfil,ON Posts: 822	It's gonna cost about $1200 . I jumped the gun , thought it was the tranny. Gave the bike to the shop the day after it happened. On the up side of this, I asked how everything in the engine was, A+ !! Tensioners, clutch(original-60,000 kms) the only thing was some carbon build up on top of the pistons. Maybe running a little rich or babying it (no bloody way) !! I guess that's the cost of education !! From here on in it' s me, the manual and a case of beer !! ( and Burn if a house comes up for rent in your neighborhood I'm movin' __________________ Who gave me these damn directions?

08-29-2009, 10:20 PM	#120 (permalink)
spikes Sprocket Pilot Join Date: Sep 2008 Bike: Suzuki M50 Black Location: Innisfil,ON Posts: 822	Ya they're going to call them and I'll be calling and faxing a copy of the bill also when the parts are in and the work is done !! Let's hope by Friday she's back on the road and p!$$in' of the neighbors at 5am when I leave for work ! __________________ Who gave me these damn directions?

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