ATTENTION ALL M50 OWNERS! My issue resolved! FIX YOURS NOW B4 IT'S TO LATE!

[burnchassis]

I've looked for a "main" phone number ,but i can not seem to locate.
I'll call them and start a ball,see if we can get it to roll.
CS

[Quantumcat]

Great news that you discovered the problem burnchassis and even better that you're willing to share it for the benefit of all.

I haven't looked at the process of disassembly yet, so the next paragraph may show a bunch of ignorance.

I await the idiot-proof "how to", but I'd like to ask if there are any other parts that would need to be ordered along with the boot. What I mean is...in order to get in there and service it a lot of things have to be removed before you get that boot. Are there parts that need to be replaced due to removing stuff in order to get in there? For example, if you have to remove the pipes, you'd probably want new gaskets. Are there gaskets, o-rings, crush washers/seals that need to be replaced when removing all the ancillary components?

Sorry for repeating my self, but I didn't want to be misunderstood.

Thanks 1,000,000 for passing along this information.

[burnchassis]

I have not gotten to the internals yet,I just ordered parts today so within a week I should have them,and will gladly post a HOW TO.
I was told I needed no special tools to do this.
If your just going to grease it ,no,you should only need the boot...again I'll know more when I tear mine down fully.
AND
You shouldn't have to remove your pipes to remove the rear wheel.
If your axle bolt is froze in there..just keep twisting it out,it will come eventually.
CS

[dispatchbob]

Originally Posted by gr8stdane

If what you say is true, and others also confirm the shaft has not been greased, we can get suzuki to do a recall, and do it at the dealers expense.

Should be on Suzuki's shoulders to correct

[Ray Nielsen]

To add a bit to this discussion, I removed the rear drive to lube the forward splines on the drive shaft just before a trip to Alaska two years ago. NO trace of any grease, but thankfully NO rust or wear either. Slathering the splines with Moly 60 paste I was ready to reassemble. But what about the front U-joint?

Took the swing arm off to access this part and found that the internal splines were dry on both front and rear sides. Lots of work, but after using lots more Moly 60 paste all was reassembled and the trip went just fine.

Later I learned that the rear end of the drive shaft, where it enters the rear drive, has a need for grease too. Suzuki recommends a new seal if you remove the drive shaft -- you'll need a circlip pliers too. After checking this I found it well lubricated with lots of grease and NO rust showing at all. Still, I cleaned it out and using Moly 60 paste again I repacked it and put in a new seal. All is well and I feel confident I'll have no problems for a long while.

Someone at Suzuki should have their fingernails torn out with pliers for this oversight at the factory level. Better yet would be castration with a dull hacksaw blade!

Ray Nielsen, in Minneapolis and sitting out rain and tornados today!

[spikes]

Burn , called the shop ,told your situation, he says they checked that and I'm not so lucky .

[dogginit]

Burn you are my mech. The great info keeps comming and comming. Sorry your bike had to break to find this out but I thank you very much for sharing the info, so the rest of us can take note. I would have ended up spending big bucks and now I know how to prevent it. Thanks again man.

[rogerl]

Burn:
I think that you bought the wrong nut and "O" ring. I found a parts list for the C-50 on the C-50 forum. I have listed the link below. I hope that I am wrong but I think that you need "O" ring #7 and nut #11. Your parts list shows Nut #16 and "O" ring number 32. Look at page 31 on the .PDF

VolusiaRiders.com :: View topic - K1 thru K5 parts break down on PDF

Roger L

[rogerl]

Burn:
One other thing I do not see the boot that you need to remove to get to this. I looked thru the parts list and thru the manual and I do not see the boot. Could you take a photo of this boot. The boot is not on your parts list either.
Also from looking at the drawing in the manual this part will not fail by locking up. It will fail by stripping off like yours did and freewheeling. The splines are basically "locked up" by design.

Roger L

[tanddrew]

Evening Burn

do you know if this is an issue isolated to the "M" and if it affected later year models. I have a '07 C50T with 22,000 miles, so far no trouble of any kind...other than those pesky tires wearing out...HAHA

[SteveL]

Originally Posted by rogerl

Burn:
One other thing I do not see the boot that you need to remove to get to this. I looked thru the parts list and thru the manual and I do not see the boot. Could you take a photo of this boot. The boot is not on your parts list either.
Also from looking at the drawing in the manual this part will not fail by locking up. It will fail by stripping off like yours did and freewheeling. The splines are basically "locked up" by design.

Roger L

The boot is at the engine end of the propeller shaft and the damaged end looks like it is at the final drive (rear wheel) end of the shaft.

To have rust in the place that failed means water intrusion. Two logical places for water entry are at the boot and the other end at the flange joint between the final drive and the propeller shaft cover. If you have ridden through deep water or live in a very wet area, I think it would be wise to inspect and lubricate both the u-joint end and the final drive end of the propeller shaft.

[burnchassis]

Originally Posted by rogerl

Burn:
One other thing I do not see the boot that you need to remove to get to this. I looked thru the parts list and thru the manual and I do not see the boot. Could you take a photo of this boot. The boot is not on your parts list either.
Also from looking at the drawing in the manual this part will not fail by locking up. It will fail by stripping off like yours did and freewheeling. The splines are basically "locked up" by design.

Roger L

The shop manager gave me the list of parts I needed.Im takin his word for it.
The "boot" is called an oil seal ,and it is not at the engine end of the shaft...it is at the rear end of the shaft.
CS

[burnchassis]

Originally Posted by tanddrew

Evening Burn

do you know if this is an issue isolated to the "M" and if it affected later year models. I have a '07 C50T with 22,000 miles, so far no trouble of any kind...other than those pesky tires wearing out...HAHA

If you have a Suzuki and a shaft drive...I would check it out .
Especially the c50 ,and m50...same parts same assembly..I don't know about different years,I only have the 05,but my GUESS is they would all be the same..dry as a bone.
Better safe then sorry.
CS

[burnchassis]

Originally Posted by dogginit

Burn you are my mech. The great info keeps comming and comming. Sorry your bike had to break to find this out but I thank you very much for sharing the info, so the rest of us can take note. I would have ended up spending big bucks and now I know how to prevent it. Thanks again man.

Thank you dogginit for thanking me!
I do it for guys like yourself,that can appreciate my efforts.
CS

[MCSC]

I almost had a bad crash about 20 years ago due to lack of grease during manufacture. My 2 year old Yamaha XT600's lower steering head bearing seized up when I attempted to exit a highway at about 110 kph. I actually had to hit the road with my boot to help stand the bike back up because it continued on straight ahead when I tipped it in.

When I dismantled the steering head, the lower bearing was rusted out and the cage holding the tapered bearings had collapsed. The upper bearing was still like new, with plenty of grease.

[vikingpnut]

Burnchassis you are my hero! It's now on my list of crap to do on my bike, Thank you for persevering and sharing with the rest of us.

[Apertureguy]

I do appreciate the info Burn...but the bike has been so good to me for so long, I hate the idea there may be a major issue like this.

I suppose I will have this checked, although I was really hoping to dodge the bullet.

I imagine it will be much cheaper to have things checked & lubed now, rather than after I go sailing through my Memphis Shade windscreen from when the darned thing locks up while on a highway.

So, Thanks.

[Camp21178]

burnchassis, it is really nice of you to post these how to videos for everybody. Thanks! Do you know if this applies to the S50?

[Manuel]

This is some great news burn. It sucks that you have to be the one to find out the hard way. We will all have to learn from this and check our driveshafts while the bikes are young. Mine only has 8000 Kms. About 5000 miles?? Too lazy to google it. Since I'm in canada, this will be a good winter project while the bike is on it's off season.

Any recommended grease burn? The manual said to use a Moly based grease. I await the idiot-proof how-to video.

How hard is it to get to the U-joint at the engine side of the driveshaft? Does the swingarm really have to be removed? I would like to check that as well.

[bm50Chapin]

I'm thinking the admins oughta take a closer look at Burn for the Member of the Month, he's done more to better our bikes via this forum than anyone else. THANK YOU BURN!!!!!