valve adjusments.. 8000miles never done..

[GeorgiaRoller]

Originally Posted by Ray Nielsen

I've gotta comment on valve clearances here with my experiences. I had an M50 and helped several other C50/M50 owners with maintenance over the past few years. I'm a retired motorcycle mechanic with over 50 years of wrenching under my belt.

At 600 miles the four bikes I checked ALL had tight or reduced clearances and were adjusted accordingly. I believe that the initial closure or reduced clearance is due to initial break-in and the valves settling into their seats. I've seen this on most other bikes too.

On my own M50 clearances were checked at 7500, 15,000, 22,500 and 30.000 miles, mostly to keep the extended warranty in effect. Only one valve needed minor adustment at 7500 miles and nothing changed in further checks up to 30,000 miles. That seems to show that initial valve adjustment is critical, then longer than normal intervals can be observed.

My M50 developed increasing valve train noise beginning about 25K miles and finally at 32K miles the noise was pinpointed as bad cam chains and tensioners. Thankfully the extended warranty saved me the $2000 repair costs. BTW, the cam chains appeared to be of Chinese manufacture and maybe the tensioners too. Both cam chains were badly stretched and one tensioner was all the way extended while the other one was stuck.

My dealer also replaced the valve stem seals and piston rings due to excessive oil consumption - about 800 miles/quart - all under warranty.

Just my two bits worth on the subject.

Ray Nielsen, in Minneapolis and sitting out rain today!

Good stuff. You always have very informative posts.

[russd]

I just had mine done @ 7500 mile mark the 200.00 bucks I spent was for my pice of mind more than the the bike needed it they also checked the brakes, changed the rear diff lube,and oil& filter

[Clint]

Originally Posted by Ray Nielsen

That seems to show that initial valve adjustment is critical, then longer than normal intervals can be observed.

I agree completely, and I've hear that from many riders. After thinking about it, I'm almost certain I had the dealer do the 600-mile service. I don't recall what the valve report was.

For you guys that have never done it, you're taking quite a gamble. At least do it once after break-in.

[The Dark Knight]

never done is now have done... more dissassembling than adjusting on this job.. already had depaired it so those werent in the way.. Job sucks.. hands down.. just blahh.. id rather adjust a BBC's roller rockers with stud girdles in a small engine compartment.. or even a 392 timmy with the old lock nut push rods...

[FastCougar]

I'm glad this thread bubbled up to the top over the last few days ... I just bought my bike 3 weeks ago (first time rider) and have already put on nearly 400 miles ... bought it with 1995 on the odometer. I'll do this as my winter storage project, along with the de-pair, naked jugs, blackout & custom exhaust.

[burnchassis]

How far off were they DK?
CS

Originally Posted by The Dark Knight

never done is now have done... more dissassembling than adjusting on this job.. already had depaired it so those werent in the way.. Job sucks.. hands down.. just blahh.. id rather adjust a BBC's roller rockers with stud girdles in a small engine compartment.. or even a 392 timmy with the old lock nut push rods...

[The Dark Knight]

both intakes were fine on each cylinder.. exhaust on the rear was in spec but on the .008 or .009 on one and prob at .008 on the other.. front exhaust was on the tighter side of .007.. My "feeler" gauge method is to make it feel like a magnet when you slide it back and forth.. which isnt easy to feel with your feeler gauge in a wade at weird angles working it back and forth with the tips of your fingers..

[burnchassis]

I'd trade a valve adjustment for a rear end rebuild.
Anyone?
lol
CS

[The Dark Knight]

well the turbo kinda got in the way a bit.. not bad at all.. and i removed the throttle body a bit to get to the front easy, and to get to the intake on the rear cylinder, i couldnt see any other way of getting to it.. i just didnt like how the valve and rocker were sunk in there and trying to get the feel off the oragomy'd feeler gauge all doing it from the side just wasnt my cup-o-tea

your diff or gears didnt go out did they? i knew about the drive shaft star splined "gear" thing shearing off..

[CruizrDude]

Just had my bike in for valve adj. at 27000 miles. Joked to shop owner I had been a little lacking with this. He kinda smiled and asked if I had trouble starting the bike. I said no starts and runs great. He said to bring in nite before because the engine needed to be cold. While he had the tank off I told him to change the coolant and plugs. When I picked the bike up he said the intakes were a little out. Total bill $180. Much better than the $1400 i would have spent following the recommended maintenance schedule. Did not feel any increase in performance or fuel economy!!!!!

[TNM50]

I was told the same thing by a local bike mechanic who has been working on Jap bikes for over 30 years. He said if it starts easily then the valves are fine. Told him I had 10K on the bike and he told me to bring it in between 15k and 18k to have them checked.

[The Dark Knight]

We should release The Bear Jew on the stealerships that insist it be done according to the schedual

[Marino13]

I did mine @ 600 miles and all of them except for one were out of spec and needed adjustment. The intake valves were the worse 1 was almost bottomed out. There would have been problems if I had let it go and not checked them.

I am not a mechanic at all and I was able to get it done correctly by taking my time and following the directions and a little help from the VR. But the bottom line is take the time to learn how to check them yourself and you don't have to pay the stealer OR worry about your bike being damaged from neglect.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Marino13

I did mine @ 600 miles and all of them except for one were out of spec and needed adjustment.

This is exactly why they should be checked once early in the bike's life sometime. Certainly within the first 5K miles. After that......who knows.

It's kind of like an insurance policy. I've recently heard from guys who only change their oil every 20K miles or so too. If you believe in one, why not the other ????

[Marino13]

It is a real pain in the nads to do it yourself but I think it's worth it. First time took me a good 4 hours but it was the first time I took the seats off, took the tank off, and all the pair valve crap was in the way, also it was my first time using feeler gauges. I just did mine a second time at 7000 miles yesterday and it only took about 2 hours. Only one exhaust valve was borderline tight and was adjusted. All the others were in spec when checked.

It gets easier as you get used to doing it and it's much easier without the pair valve tubing in the way. I chopped that up and used it as chromed spacers to raise my headlight up 2" to fit my windshield better...

[johbren]

I have an 07c50 almost 19,000 miles now and never had the vavles checked. starts and runs fine and get 56-58 mpg. with the DJ drive and gutted stock pipes with cherry bombs installed in the stock pipes. stock air box

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by johbren

I have an 07c50 almost 19,000 miles now and never had the vavles checked.

So....finish the story, please.
Do you think that is a wise thing to do ??
I certainly don't.

A burned valve can come on very slowly and can be VERY expensive to fix.
The simple fact that it "seems" to be running OK means virtually nothing.

Have you changed the oil yet?
If so, why? That is just a "recommendation" too.

[Marino13]

^^^^

Just because your valves haven't burned up yet doesn't mean they won't if you keep neglecting them. Remember the valves in our bikes generally get tighter over time. Not a good thing to let go to chance IMO