Thinking of violating the Violators

[Rockyrikoko]

Due to the mass of requests I’ve gotten both on and offline, here is the recipe for the Rocky Turndowns…



3x 2” mandrel J-bends (I used aluminized but if you can find a good price stainless is recommended for durability)
Hooker Headers 12570HKR - Hooker Mandrel Bend Tubing - summitracing.com


2x The first inch or so of the OEM pipe along with the mounting bracket and 2 screws. (Pretty much every part of the pipe in this pic minus the heat shield)


1x 2”x25’ header exhaust wrap (I used black)
Heat Shield Products Standard Black Header Exhaust Tape / Wrap 2000 Degree - Header Exhaust Tape / Wrap 2000 Degree Black 2" x 25'


2x Hose clamp larger than 2.5” (I shot for a 3” clamp)
Murray Gold Seal at Lowe's: # 40 Clamp, 2-1/16"-3"


1x Can of paint that can withstand 1k degrees. I used BBQ grill paint by Rust-Oleum (shown). (I wasn’t happy with the paint I used so I can’t recommend a particular brand)


1x Decent welder that you feel is competent enough to handle your baby.


The welding part is the job of the guy you hire to figure out. If you get the stuff listed above, you have all the materials needed to make these pipes. After the pipes have been assembled you need to grind the welds. They don’t have to be completely flush or perfect, you just don’t want to have a bump protruding from under the wrap. If you plan on having them chromed then the welds will have to be flawless and the bead will have to be ground perfect, but for a number of reasons finishing with chrome is not recommended. Next you need to rough up the pipe with sand paper in the neighborhood of 500 grit to aid in the paint adhesion. Then wash the pipes off with soap and water. Be sure to allow the pipes to dry thoroughly and follow the directions listed on the can for applying the paint. FYI, the paint isn’t just for looks it will aid in keeping your pipes from corroding. Once you are happy with the paint and all has sufficiently dried, wrap them up. Slide the mounting bracket on the pipe. Start at the end/bottom of the pipe and work your way up maintaining ~¼ of the width of the wrap in overlap (For you brainiacs that’s a ½”). Be sure to wrap them tight. Failure to wrap them tight will result in your wrap unraveling as you ride down the highway… very embarrassing! Once you get to the top cut the wrap and hold it in place using the hose clamp. Repeat on the other pipe. Time to mount the pipes. If you have the OEM engine guards the top right side will need to be detached and laid on the floor. Install the pipe on the rear cylinder first tightening about 90%. Then install the front pipe at 90%. Rotate the pipes so they look right. Check em out from the front back and side. Once your happy with their placement go tighten the extra 10%. And your ready to go!

This info is provided as a guide for those wanting to recreate my pipe project. I am not a mechanic so although I have had great results with my set-up, I have no clue how well they will work with your bike’s configuration. I’m happy to answer any questions that weren’t covered in this thread. Just throw em out there and ill answer as soon as I can.

Originally Posted by Trigger1985

Thanks. I take it the J Bends were un-bent to get the right shape?

No, you don’t want to unbend your J-bends, if you just want bends you could get cheap compression bends from your local exhaust shop. What your paying for is the mandrel bend. The pipes are bent 180 degrees so to get a 90-degree bend for instance you would cut them at the mid point in the bend. If the cuts are made correctly you wont need any other pipe aside from the 3 bends. I recommend the mandrel bends because they look more refined.

[Rockyrikoko]

For anyone thats curious why I recomend the mandrel bent pipe...

Pipe A is how a bend looks from 99% of exhaust shops. (compression bend)

Pipe B is a mandrel bend.

This is the difference inside the bend between the mandrel and compression bent pipe. Both pipes are 2” but the mandrel remains 2” all the way through.

[Trigger1985]

ooh, now I see it thanks

[07M50Limited]

Nice info...Thanks

[NGKTECH]

Nice write up!!!! Thanks

[Mario]

Wish the welders in the machine shop looked like that

yes I know that is not a welding tool but a torch

and look at the guy in the background "maybe she will think I am cool"

[Rockyrikoko]

Originally Posted by Mario

and look at the guy in the background "maybe she will think I am cool"

LMAO, I didn't even notice that guy

[Rockyrikoko]

Hey guys! I haven't been to the hideaway for quite a while and I was curious if anyone ever got around to creating their own pipes and how they came out and such.

[FastCougar]

I'm getting ready to ... I have my "flange" material coming tomorrow (304SS 2.375" Solid Round .5" thick) and I already have my 1.5" OD 304SS mandrel bent tubing. Now I just need to find the time ... this weekend I'm booked, so it looks like the wife will have yet another reason to resent this bike

[fargoben67]

gimme 2 more years! once i get this bike paid off and buy another one i want to turn my m into a bober

[NGKTECH]

I wanted/want to but decided to sell the bike come this spring 2010 so theres no point