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Marauder M50 Secret Hideaway It's for Marauder M50 owners!


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Old 09-07-2008, 11:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default step by step instructions for oil chg on M50

Anybody done oil chg on their own and are kind enough to post instructions, maybe with pics for us noobs (If I'm not the only one here )

Thanks ahead!

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Coming soon: Hypercharger/ adaptor.
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Old 09-07-2008, 12:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You dont need any pics.
Under the center of the engine there is 1 nut..actually is a bolt, I think it is 14 mm.
Grab your favorite wrench or socket,and losten it...drain your oil into a pan.
The filter is in plain view in front at the bottom..be careful there not to scratch your machine with a cheap filter wrech.
Be sure you add 4 stroke engine oil designed for wet clutches.
In the heat of summer i use 20 w 50.
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Last edited by burnchassis; 09-07-2008 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 09-07-2008, 12:29 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You evidentally have not come across the manual for the M50 yet. Copronymous was nice enough to find and post the online M50 factory service manual. Save the site as it has lots of valuable information. For your oil change turn to page 27-its section 2-11
http://copronymous.com/images/M50-MANUAL.pdf

Side note-According to your sig, the bike is a 2006, im really hoping you have had the oil changed before, but if a dealer did it that filter is gonna be TIGHT. Dont be surprised if it doesnt just come off, you will have to use a filter wrench, stab it with a screwdriver, or some other method to get that filter off. Get a K&N oil filter #KN-138 I do believe, has a nice nut welded on end of filter for easy removal. Also the factory filter has a special oil filter wrench you can use if you get the special filter removal tool. The filter does not need to be on that tight, snug it down by hand and that should be all you need

Last edited by ranger04; 09-07-2008 at 12:34 PM.
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Old 09-07-2008, 12:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Repeat after me: I, [state your name], solemnly swear to make sure the old filter gasket is removed before installing the new filter. I will, to the best of my ability, not use a ratchet extension, breaker bar, or any other overly long tool to tighten the drain plug. I swear to uphold the sanctity of my oil pan and only snug the bolt.

So help me physics.
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Old 09-07-2008, 01:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clint View Post
Repeat after me: I, [state your name], solemnly swear to make sure the old filter gasket is removed before installing the new filter. I will, to the best of my ability, not use a ratchet extension, breaker bar, or any other overly long tool to tighten the drain plug. I swear to uphold the sanctity of my oil pan and only snug the bolt.

So help me physics.
Thats awsome-Clint you should make it mandatory that anybody who inquires about an oil change should go through this process
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Old 09-07-2008, 02:25 PM   #6 (permalink)
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@ Clint

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Old 09-07-2008, 02:39 PM   #7 (permalink)
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thanks!. yes i picked up a chrome k&n filter. so remove old filter gasket, snug for both the bolt and filter should work fine, got it. looking forward to this as it will save me quite a bit and leave more moola for ups
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2006 silver *debadged* M50/ kury iso-grips ( with throttle boss, grip spikes, front & back pegs, clutch & brake covers)/ chrome accents (oil and brake cap)/ garmin Zumo 550 Gps/ Stock pipes (debaffled, demickey'd, blacked out header side)/ leather saddlebags & supports/ sissy bar & rack/ memphis fat 13" clear/ roadrunner cup holder/ HD fork pouch/ PC3/ 32" drag bar/ sidemount curved plate mount/ clear signals/ johnskit 3in lowering/ chrome rad cover/ Integrated signal back light kit/ removed OEM back signals and license housing/ Sickle Stem Lucifer Mirrors/ kury ultra tour bag/ JK's forward controls.

Coming soon: Hypercharger/ adaptor.
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Old 09-07-2008, 08:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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why is it that Dealers service departments like to use an impact-driver, AND LocTite (or should it seem like) on Oil Filters???????
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Old 09-07-2008, 08:21 PM   #9 (permalink)
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they followed the directions and secured it 1 full turn after the gasket meets the rim. heh
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Old 09-07-2008, 08:39 PM   #10 (permalink)
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That oil filter is a B**** to get off!
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Old 09-07-2008, 08:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Something that wasn't mentioned is that you must be sure to remove your oil filling plug on the top of the engine before you start draining your oil. When I did my first oil change I removed that plug and the oil drained out nicely. On the second oil change I forgot to remove the top filler plug before I removed the drain plug on the bottom of the engine. As a result, when I took the bottom plug out the oil came shooting out into the pan under high pressure making a mess as it splashed up from the bottom of my drain pan.
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Old 09-07-2008, 11:27 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex13 View Post
That oil filter is a B**** to get off!
-must be first oil change-or fist on own

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Old 09-07-2008, 11:27 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paper Plane View Post
they followed the directions and secured it 1 full turn after the gasket meets the rim. heh
I think its actually two full turns
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Old 09-08-2008, 07:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ranger04 View Post
I think its actually two full turns
lol yea i seen that too. finally gave that manual a little peek.
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2006 silver *debadged* M50/ kury iso-grips ( with throttle boss, grip spikes, front & back pegs, clutch & brake covers)/ chrome accents (oil and brake cap)/ garmin Zumo 550 Gps/ Stock pipes (debaffled, demickey'd, blacked out header side)/ leather saddlebags & supports/ sissy bar & rack/ memphis fat 13" clear/ roadrunner cup holder/ HD fork pouch/ PC3/ 32" drag bar/ sidemount curved plate mount/ clear signals/ johnskit 3in lowering/ chrome rad cover/ Integrated signal back light kit/ removed OEM back signals and license housing/ Sickle Stem Lucifer Mirrors/ kury ultra tour bag/ JK's forward controls.

Coming soon: Hypercharger/ adaptor.
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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holy easy. i feel so ripped off now. paid only 17 for k&n filter, 15$ for 4 jugs of 4stroke motorcycle oil. i think i paid like 190$ or so for an oil change and rubber mounted on my back rim (rubber i brought in too).

for those needing the step by step like i did:

ride around for a bit or let idle so oil is warmed up and will drain out nice and easy. put bike sitting vertical. put oil pan under the bolt at bottom of bike. loosen off the oil cap on right side of bike. loosen bolt (14mm wrench) on bottom of bike to let oil drip out into oil pan. once all oil is drained from bottom of bike, take off the oil filter behind the front rad. make sure the old rubber gasket comes off with the filter. take new filter and rub a bit of oil onto the new gasket. turn on by hand only until the filter finally touches. put a piece of tape on it in clear view and turn the filter 2 FULL TURNS (k&n should be a 17mm wrench i think) till the tape is back in it's original position. tighten the bottom bolt now only until it fits snug. top up the bike now with 3.6 liters or so or 3.5 small jugs (4 stroke motorcycle engine oil). tighten oil cap back on. turn bike on and let idle for a bit. check oil level again and top up if necessary. oil should be between the bottom and top line (closer to top line) on the left side of the oil window on right side of bike.

instructions are very detailed just to help you out a little more. no guessing that's for sure. thanks to all that posted helping me out with my first oil change. can't believe how cheap and easy it is to do yourself.
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Coming soon: Hypercharger/ adaptor.

Last edited by dreygun; 09-10-2008 at 08:19 PM.
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:32 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreygun View Post
thanks!. yes i picked up a chrome k&n filter. so remove old filter gasket, snug for both the bolt and filter should work fine, got it. looking forward to this as it will save me quite a bit and leave more moola for ups
If you have never drop ed the screen intake, do it now, and clean it out.
Its the cover behind the drain plug, with 4 bolts in it.
Mine had all kind of crap in it at 600 miles....paint, silicone.
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:45 PM   #17 (permalink)
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damn. i'll have to do next time. thanks for the tip! would the earth magnets on filter keep that stuff in the filter?
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2006 silver *debadged* M50/ kury iso-grips ( with throttle boss, grip spikes, front & back pegs, clutch & brake covers)/ chrome accents (oil and brake cap)/ garmin Zumo 550 Gps/ Stock pipes (debaffled, demickey'd, blacked out header side)/ leather saddlebags & supports/ sissy bar & rack/ memphis fat 13" clear/ roadrunner cup holder/ HD fork pouch/ PC3/ 32" drag bar/ sidemount curved plate mount/ clear signals/ johnskit 3in lowering/ chrome rad cover/ Integrated signal back light kit/ removed OEM back signals and license housing/ Sickle Stem Lucifer Mirrors/ kury ultra tour bag/ JK's forward controls.

Coming soon: Hypercharger/ adaptor.

Last edited by dreygun; 09-10-2008 at 09:02 PM.
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Old 09-11-2008, 06:59 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Magnets only help with ferris debris (metal). Look on page 107 of repair manual for pictures of sump filter (07M50Limited) above.

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Old 09-11-2008, 09:47 PM   #19 (permalink)
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When i see the fool that put my oil filter on i think i may just kick him in the knee, there is NO, I repeat NO reason to tighten the filter on that tight....

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