Blown fuse

[07M50zAllDaWay]

I was on my way back to work from lunch, cruising about 45mph. I hit two bumps and the bike died. No power going to the odometer/speedometer or fuel pump. Lights and horn worked, and the engine would turn over. Just as I expected, it was fuse #3. Replaced it and the bike ran fine. Anything I should look for? I did get caught in the rain last night, that could be the cause. I also have the USB cable to my power commander in the tool compartment, if that shorted to ground could that have blown fuse #3?

[womper]

if you hit a bump and you blew a fuse i'd start looking for bare wires after the fuse.

looks like it shorted out to the frame most probably. the bump was hard enough to move things around to make contact...

my suggestion is look for anything out of place, wires near the frame or other wires and from now on, carry some spare fuses

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by womper

if you hit a bump and you blew a fuse i'd start looking for bare wires after the fuse.

It's pretty rare but the elements in a fuse do sometimes just break from stress or vibration.

I'm with you though. A good visual inspection and maybe even some thumping around on various parts of the frame would certainly be in order.

[omegajim]

there's the outside chance the fuse wasn't all that "good" to begin with.

Or put another way "variation in the manufacturing process."

I wouldn't worry much about it until it happens a 2nd time.

[diamond_jim]

Here's a redneck way to check for vibration-related electrical connection problems. I used it to find a problem years ago on an XS1100. Get out your multimeter and use alligator clips were ever you can to free up your hands. Hook it up to the wires and connections on the bike you are investigating. Once hooked up, take a good orbital sander, wrap a towel around it to prevent scratching the bike and then place it up against parts of the bike near the area of interest. Sure, it's not gonna generate the same vibrations as riding but it can produce a lot of vibrations in the bike near the area of interest. If you see any fluctuation at all on the multimeter then there's a pretty good chance you've localized the problem. This method also works great for finding those small annoying rattles that bikes sometime develop from loose parts.

[burnchassis]

I also tend to think the bike didnt "blow" the fuse ,but broke it on a hard bump.
That filament in the fuse is tiny you wouldnt think it would take much.
Maybe check the fuse box mounts?
Keep us posted plz...I dont ride with fuses,and I'd hate to be stranded.

CS

[07M50zAllDaWay]

Originally Posted by burnchassis

I also tend to think the bike didnt "blow" the fuse ,but broke it on a hard bump.
That filament in the fuse is tiny you wouldnt think it would take much.
Maybe check the fuse box mounts?
Keep us posted plz...I dont ride with fuses,and I'd hate to be stranded.

CS

Fuse box has storage for spares, I'd make sure they are in there!!! Also, never do what I did, which was work on the bike at home and leave the tool kit out. Had to get a ride back to work to get Allen wrenches and needle nose pliers to get the bike up and running.

[womper]

Originally Posted by diamond_jim

Here's a redneck way to check for vibration-related electrical connection problems. I used it to find a problem years ago on an XS1100. Get out your multimeter and use alligator clips were ever you can to free up your hands. Hook it up to the wires and connections on the bike you are investigating. Once hooked up, take a good orbital sander, wrap a towel around it to prevent scratching the bike and then place it up against parts of the bike near the area of interest. Sure, it's not gonna generate the same vibrations as riding but it can produce a lot of vibrations in the bike near the area of interest. If you see any fluctuation at all on the multimeter then there's a pretty good chance you've localized the problem. This method also works great for finding those small annoying rattles that bikes sometime develop from loose parts.

or you could borrow the wife's Steely Dan


also, check the fuse and see if it looks like it got cooked or if it's just a tiny crack... tiny crack = vibration damage, big gaping hole = burned out

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by womper

also, check the fuse and see if it looks like it got cooked or if it's just a tiny crack... tiny crack = vibration damage, big gaping hole = burned out

While that sounds logical, if the tiny crack develops while the circuit is under load, the tiny crack arcs and becomes a "big gaping hole".

[07M50zAllDaWay]

Well, cheap lesson learned, never leave home w/o tools and spare fuses. At least t didn't cost me a tow. I've put about 250 miles on since the breakdown with no trouble, so I'm starting to think the fuse just broke. If it repeats I'll start checking for short to ground, but I don't think there is a problem.

[omegajim]

variations in the manufacturing process seem to be at work, because, not all fuses will be made alike and then in combination with the harsh environment on a motorcycle, it will be testament to how well anything is made.

I mean really, isn't it amazing these darn things hold together at all, much less after 80 - 90 k?

[07M50zAllDaWay]

Well it happened again, bump bump bleh. Guess I need to pull the tank and find the short. I'm at 7k right now, so I may toss a spare pack of fuses in my bag and roll for another week, then tear her down this weekend to do the valves and plugs.

[womper]

ouch...
good luck with that...

hmm.. could it be the PCIII processor maybe?
i'd be looking at anything added on aftermarket first...

[burnchassis]

What he said ^^^
From my experience...I would suggest you start with anything you have done.
Replaced any lights?
added any power points?
CS

[07M50zAllDaWay]

Originally Posted by burnchassis

What he said ^^^
From my experience...I would suggest you start with anything you have done.
Replaced any lights?
added any power points?
CS

I've added lights, but nothing tied into fuse #3's circuit. I prefer an overhead projector to power point, call me old school.

[Paper Plane]

could it be the wires under the rear wheelwell? i think i read somewhere that a fellow biker shredded the wires under the rear wheel well after a porthole incident.

[womper]

Originally Posted by 07M50zAllDaWay

I've added lights, but nothing tied into fuse #3's circuit. I prefer an overhead projector to power point, call me old school.

my guess is the power commander...

other than that, check the wiring diagram and you'll see what wires could be affected by a short to ground
the bike is dying but start up again... that's the odd part...


does your clock reset as well?

odd problem... if it were me, i would be checking every wire and connection twice over... there's a problem somewhere...

could also be a CONTACT and not a wire... ie: something is live when it should be grounded and when you hit a bump, it shorts it out...

let us know when you find it... hope it'll be an easy find.

[07M50zAllDaWay]

Originally Posted by womper

my guess is the power commander...

other than that, check the wiring diagram and you'll see what wires could be affected by a short to ground
the bike is dying but start up again... that's the odd part...


does your clock reset as well?

odd problem... if it were me, i would be checking every wire and connection twice over... there's a problem somewhere...

could also be a CONTACT and not a wire... ie: something is live when it should be grounded and when you hit a bump, it shorts it out...

let us know when you find it... hope it'll be an easy find.

I doubt it is the PC. The problem started several thousand miles after it was installed. Also, I don't believe the PC3 draws off of that circuit. I am going to find something to wrap the USB cable with just in case. The biggest thing is, the bike ran almost 1000 miles before the problem showed back up. I'll find it this weekend though, for sure