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| Marauder M50 Secret Hideaway It's for Marauder M50 owners! |
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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Ditch Magnet ![]() Joined: Apr 2007
Bike: Suzuki 05' Boulevard M50 Black
Location: Carthage, Missouri.
Posts: 172
| Alrighty, I have an 05 M50 with roughly 18,000mi on it. Just finished up the 18,000mi service a few days ago.... Well for the last couple of days I've noticed something fairly alarming.... Sort of difficult to explain... I'll try... The problem occurs in the midrange rpms through second, third and fourth gears.. During somewhat hard accelleration through these gears when I'm approacing the midrange rpms in each respective gear it feels like there is something slipping, (well there is definatly something slipping somewhere) There is a noticable slip about midway through the each gear.. Good accelleration, good accelleration then VRRRROOMMM in the middle of the gear and the rpms increase significantly (audibly) and then it seems to catch back up in the higher end of the rpms and does fine... It doesnt slip oput completely because there is not an ENTIRE powerloss, but there is definatly a slip in the middle which causes a slight powerloss, and you can hear/feel the rpms jump up a move around in the middle of the gears under somewhat hard accelleration.... I have never experienced anything like this on this or any other bike before..... Kinda worries me a bit... I'm thinkin' oh man the clutch is going out on me or something's wrong with the shaft drive... I really don't know and I havent called my mechanic yet so I figured I'd get as much advice from you guys before I started calling people. Sorry for the crappy explaination, but hopefully someone could shed some light on this... Thanks!!!!!
__________________ You must consider everything, before you can consider anything. |
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| | #4 (permalink) | ||
| Ditch Magnet ![]() Joined: Apr 2007
Bike: Suzuki 05' Boulevard M50 Black
Location: Carthage, Missouri.
Posts: 172
| Quote:
Quote:
__________________ You must consider everything, before you can consider anything. | ||
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| | #5 (permalink) | ||||||
| Et cetera ad nauseum ![]() Joined: Dec 2003
Bike: 2002 Bandit 1200 S
Location: St. Cloud, MN, USA
Posts: 18,315
| Transmissions don't "slip". They clunk, or bang, or grind, or lock up, but they don't slip. Either you gained a little power during your tuneup or you have the clutch cable too tight. Fresh oil can cause slipping, too, which isn't an indication of an oil problem but of worn clutch plates or tired springs.
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| Ditch Magnet ![]() Joined: Apr 2007
Bike: Suzuki 05' Boulevard M50 Black
Location: Carthage, Missouri.
Posts: 172
| Thanks Clint, always a wealth of information. Well it certainly isnt the transmission then because there is no effect remotely similar to what you described. Unfortunatly this isnt any sort of power increase. I'll be checking the clutch cable before I take another ride later today. There is fresh oil in it as a result of the service and so I'm interrested in checking the clutch plates and the springs, any advice on how I'd go about this, or should I just go ahead and take her down to the shop???
__________________ You must consider everything, before you can consider anything. |
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| | #7 (permalink) | |
| Ditch Magnet ![]() Joined: Apr 2007
Bike: Suzuki 05' Boulevard M50 Black
Location: Carthage, Missouri.
Posts: 172
| Quote:
__________________ You must consider everything, before you can consider anything. | |
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| | #8 (permalink) | ||||||
| Et cetera ad nauseum ![]() Joined: Dec 2003
Bike: 2002 Bandit 1200 S
Location: St. Cloud, MN, USA
Posts: 18,315
| Clutch replacement is generally considered fairly easy for shadetree type, but it's your call. I don't know the specifics for your bike, but I seem to recall seeing a thread on it. I'd get a Clymer and go to town, but I have more time than money.
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| TurtleWax Taster ![]() Joined: Jun 2007 Location: Ft. Worth, TX
Posts: 591
| Another vote for clutch slipping. A test I read about recently--get on a nice long patch of empty road. Run your bike up to 5th gear, then let the bike decelerate to 35-40mph while still in 5th. Whack the throttle wide open. If the revs go up quickly, your clutch is slipping--the engine *should* stay bogged down with almost no acceleration. Like others said above, your clutch could be out of adjustment or it could be failing. I've never done a clutch replacement, but from what I read the hardest part is getting the clutch cover off without damaging anything and making sure you put all the new clutch plates in the same way the old ones came out.
__________________ Current Mods/Accessories: OEM short sissy bar, MC Enterprises engine guard, Mustang Vintage Wide Touring seat, Kuryakyn Dually Iso highway pegs + Longhorn mounts, Highway Hawk floorboards, Tsukayu Corner hard bags |
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| | #12 (permalink) |
| In Training ![]() | There are three points of adjustment for the clutch, the handlebar perch, the cables where they enter the engine cover and under the engine side cover. The owner's manual thoroughly describes the correct procedure and I'd strongly suggest following that or the service manual's instruction. To access the engine side adjustment you need to remove the rear left engine cover, then the left side middle cover. Loosen the cable adjusters at the handlebars AND at the cable fittings on the engine left side cover, THEN and only THEN adjust the screw and locknut under the side cover. Loosen the lock nut and turn the screw outward a couple of turns, then turn it in until it contacts the pushrod to the clutch. You'll feel it as it touches. Loosen the screw 1/4 turn and tighten the locknut firmly. Then adjust the cable fittings. I'd suggest modifying the manual instructions by adjusting the handlebar adjuster first to achieve a few threads showing on the adjuster, then tighten the lock nut. Finally adjust the cable nuts above the left side engine cover to get about 1/2 - 3/4" of slack at the ball end of the clutch lever. If this doesn't help you may have to replace clutch parts. It's my experience that Jap bikes use very poor quality clutch springs and maybe that's all that needs replacement. If you remove the springs you can measure the free length to determine if they're below specs. The usually are after 15k miles or more. Buy better quality replacements from either EBC, Barnett Engineering or Clutch Factory. These springs are silicon steel and don't sack as the Japanese music wire springs do. Ray Nielsen, in Minneapolis and went for a ride today! |
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