New M50 with lots of questions.

[burnchassis]

Hello everyone!
I just purchased a used 2005 M50 with 13k miles.
I got a good deal (i think)at $4000 cash.

1.Checking the oil....I bought a haynes manual it states "Lean the bike onto its sidestand to check it,however it also says 3.2 quarts with no filter change.
I added 3.5 quarts,and couldnt see any oil in the window...everyone tells me it has to be straight up to check it.
So whats the proper way to check the oil? Bike leaning down or standing up?

2.Whats the rear gear oil? Book states 90 weight..but as you all know 90 comes in 75w90 up to 140w90.
Whats the correct rear gear oil?

3.My clutch my be slipping under hard power...Are there any adjustments I can make to the clutch before I replace it that may help me from slipping?

4.The fan comes on almost at each stop...the temp light doesn't come on,but it seems hot(could be the pipes?)

5.In the event the light does come on...How can you tell if it is the oil pressure or the temp?(before breakdown lol)

6.I read somewhere someone added a 6th gear to their M50..Is this plausable? Has anyone done it ?Whats involved?

If anyone can help me I would be very greatful!
Thanks
Attached are a couple pics
CS

[Hotform]

1. Check the oil with the bike standing straight up and down. Some guys put a piece of 2X4 under the kickstand to get it close and then just balance it a little while checking the sight glass. DO NOT USE MOTOR OIL MADE FOR CARS! This is very important and may be the reason your clutch is slipping. I recommend you drain all the oil out, put on a new filter and put in 10W-40 MOTORCYCLE OIL. Ask for it at your auto parts store. WalMart doesn't carry motorcycle oil, at least not in my town. This is very important. Car oil has additives that make it slipperier for improving mileage. If it says energy conserving on the label, it has the additives. I had all kinds of trouble with the clutch on my used dirt bike until I simply changed the oil. Shifts like a dream now.
2. 90W is what the rear end calls for. I put a synthetic 75W-90 in mine that I got at AutoZone, which I might add was right next to the motorcycle oil, and I have had no problems.
3. Change the oil as above before making any adjustments to the clutch. The clutch adjustments are in the owners manual if needed.
4. The coolant is suppose to be changed after two years. Change it out first before anything else. Is the coolant level full? Maybe not, and maybe that is why your fan is coming on as you are right on the verge of overheating.
5. Change the oil and the coolant first, then worry about whether you are getting a light. If everything is right, you should never get a light. I think there is a light for each thing.
6. You'll have to read up on the 6th gear. Every bike always needs one more gear, at least we think so.

[burnchassis]

Coolant is full and dont look to bad....the lights never came on,just the fan,I was just wondering...on the 2005 how can you tell,because its all 1 light.
As soon as I got the bike I changed to 10w40 motorcycle oil from vavoline.
I have since changed the oil again, and the filter..it still slips.ive put 2000 miles on it since Ive had it.
I have had this bike for about 2 weeks.
thanks for your assistance!
CS

[Hotform]

I would still drain the coolant and flush the system and refill it.
The clutch adjustment section is in the owners manual.

[burnchassis]

I bought it used...there was no manual... I wouldn't be here asking for this help.
The haynes manual I bought seems to be a bit sketchy.
I will drain the fluid ,and the extra .3 quarts from the engine,and see if that helps.
CS

[Trilithon]

Others have answered your questions .... I have one.

I seen an Armor-All bottle in your pics ... you using that where on the bike?

The first time, and last time, I used that on a bike seat it wasn't a pretty sight during a hard stop ...

I wasn't thinking at the time I used it, many years ago. I also did the pegs - another bad idea on my part.

[davecrash]

here's a link to the service manual.
http://copronymous.com/images/M50-MANUAL.pdf

[Hotform]

Dave,
Do you also have a link to the owners manual for download?
I use the downloaded PDF. version of the service manual all the time. I usually plug my laptop into speakers in the garage and keep the PDF. at hand for any questions. Looking things up with it is a whole lot faster than my hard manual.

[Clint]

Originally Posted by Hotform

DO NOT USE MOTOR OIL MADE FOR CARS! This is very important and may be the reason your clutch is slipping.

Boloney. This has been debunked time and again. You do need to use the oil of the correct weight, though, which ensures that you don't get oil with friction modifiers (which can cause slipping).

[Don M50limited]

And....no 6th gear. Some, a couple here now I think, have done a swap of the shaft drive that in effect creates higher gearing ratio to the rear.
http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/fo...t=%2ADJ%2A

[tdurham]

Originally Posted by Hotform

Dave,
Do you also have a link to the owners manual for download?

The link above IS FOR DOWNLOAD. If you want to save a copy to your local pooter, then just click on FILE, SAVE PAGE AS, and vwala, it will save the 20MB file to your local drive

I ordered a repair manual for mine from Repair Manuals - Car, Motorcycle, Truck, Tractor, Boat, Outbaord Motor, Bicycle, more . I have not received it yet so can't tell you if it is any good or not.

TD

[Burnt]

Originally Posted by Clint

Boloney. This has been debunked time and again. You do need to use the oil of the correct weight, though, which ensures that you don't get oil with friction modifiers (which can cause slipping).

Dude, I disagree with your description. For our motorcycle you should not use oil that has "ENERGY CONSERVING" indicated on the label. This information would be found inside the API doughnut mark on the bottle or label. So yes you can use automotive oil as long as it does not say the above on the label and yes the correct weight is important but not as important as the above information.

[Trigger1985]

I found SF oil at Walmart, it was there cheapo stuff and labled "For cars made prior to 1988" It was 1.46 a bottle, but I'm switching to the Auto-Zone stuff that says its made for wet clutch motorcycles. They only had two bottles when I was there last time, hope they have more... I wasn't able to get the damn filter off last time, tried to take it to my stealer, they were going to charge me 175 bucks to do 600 mile service, and then said that I could either leave my bike and they would get to it at some point or make an appointment for July 18 (this was June 20 btw) This was of course after I called and they told me to go ahead and bring it in... heading out to get the stuff i need, and a better wrench.

[phil.dye]

Burn, nice looking bike. Sounds like you really enjoy riding it (2000 miles in 2 weeks). Anyway, just to further develop part of your questions...isn't it true if you have to thin of an oil you bike will run a little hot? The oil would get to thin and not be able to transfer any heat to help cool the motor. Jut seems like you are having some lube problems and that may be tied into your fan/heat problem.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Burnt

Dude, I disagree with your description.

DUDE.....Friction modifiers = Energy Conserving. Same thing. Chill !

The original statement that you made: DO NOT USE MOTOR OIL MADE FOR CARS! is simply not true. MOST of the motor oil made for cars is perfectly fine for bikes too.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Trigger1985

I found SF oil at Walmart, it was there cheapo stuff and labled "For cars made prior to 1988" It was 1.46 a bottle,

OK, I give up. WHY would you do that in the first place ??

Those spec's listed in the manual are MINIMUM requirements......not a recommendation.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by phil.dye

.isn't it true if you have to thin of an oil you bike will run a little hot?

No. Not unless it gets about as thin as kerosene.....which ain't gonna happen......under any normal circumstances.

[Hotform]

The link above IS FOR DOWNLOAD. If you want to save a copy to your local pooter, then just click on FILE, SAVE PAGE AS, and vwala, it will save the 20MB file to your local drive

Thanks Tdurham, I do understand what download that is and I already have the service manual download thank you. I am looking for the OWNERS MANUAL for download. DO YOU UNDERSTAND OR MUST I DRAW A PICTURE?
I do know it is a stretch, but people actually let me fix their computers and I do about a hundred a year, so I may be able to handle the download instructions.
To repeat, looking for an OWNERS MANUAL, not the service manual which I already have.

[phil.dye]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

No. Not unless it gets about as thin as kerosene.....which ain't gonna happen......under any normal circumstances.

Okie Dokie

[geeker]

for those of you who would like the oil chart for future reference without searching through the manual.