Sweet fab'd valve adjustment tool

[profane]

Jim, that very creative.

However,
Im sure the dealership has a tool specifically made to the job the same way that they would sell you at a much higher price!


How long did it take to the valves? I need to check mine, so I may plan for it next time the tank is off, but time is an issue for me. I'll be sure to give your creation a shot.

And brain surgery with a butter knife sounds like my kinda brain surgery, I mean we all know that most people don't need or use most if it any way.

[diamond_jim]

Originally Posted by profane

Jim, that very creative.

However,
Im sure the dealership has a tool specifically made to the job the same way that they would sell you at a much higher price!


How long did it take to the valves? I need to check mine, so I may plan for it next time the tank is off, but time is an issue for me. I'll be sure to give your creation a shot.

And brain surgery with a butter knife sounds like my kinda brain surgery, I mean we all know that most people don't need or use most if it any way.

I did it the first time and made them too loose. That was a learning experience. When I made the tool, it was a breeze. As far as time- after removing the tank, labeling and disconnecting wires and removing the throttle body, the actual adjustment part took maybe 20 minutes. It was so easy. I just loosened the adjusters, slid in the feeler gauge, snugged up the adjusters until I met resistance, tightened the nuts, rechecked clearance and done. Very easy.

Since you do a lot of shop work and work on your bike be careful whenever you remove the spark plugs. The spark plug cavity for the front plug had some metal shavings sitting on the bottom where the plug screws in. They must have fallen in there when I drilled the handlebar for the custom speedo mount or when I cut/grinded the bar ends to narrow them. I saw the shavings sitting there when I removed the plug. It looked like silver dirt. I took a magnetic retrieving tool, put it down the hole there and got the shaving out. Just an FYI.

[profane]

Originally Posted by diamond_jim

I did it the first time and made them too loose. That was a learning experience. When I made the tool, it was a breeze. As far as time- after removing the tank, labeling and disconnecting wires and removing the throttle body, the actual adjustment part took maybe 20 minutes. It was so easy. I just loosened the adjusters, slid in the feeler gauge, snugged up the adjusters until I met resistance, tightened the nuts, rechecked clearance and done. Very easy.

Since you do a lot of shop work and work on your bike be careful whenever you remove the spark plugs. The spark plug cavity for the front plug had some metal shavings sitting on the bottom where the plug screws in. They must have fallen in there when I drilled the handlebar for the custom speedo mount or when I cut/grinded the bar ends to narrow them. I saw the shavings sitting there when I removed the plug. It looked like silver dirt. I took a magnetic retrieving tool, put it down the hole there and got the shaving out. Just an FYI.

Oh yeah, good idea about the shavings. I welded and ground everything while it was still on the bike, usually after doing work the whole thing is cover in something till the wind blows it off or whatnot.

I will probably do it at some point while working on the tank. I don't think I need any adjustments, but it can't hurt to check.

[diamond_jim]

Originally Posted by profane

Oh yeah, good idea about the shavings. I welded and ground everything while it was still on the bike...

I figured so. When you take the spark plug boots off, shoot some compressed air in there before removing the plugs and then after removing the plugs do the magnetic tool trick.

I know you know this already but I like to be reminded on things from time to time since the ol' noggin ain't so sharp anymore. When you have the valve covers off and you are rotating the engine to get TDC, watch for the intake valves to be compressed and return. Once they return, catch the first TDC mark for the appropriate cylinder as it comes around. If you miss it do it again.

[07M50Limited]

Originally Posted by diamond_jim

I figured so. When you take the spark plug boots off, shoot some compressed air in there before removing the plugs and then do the magnetic tool trick.

I know you know this already but I like to be reminded on things from time to time since the ol' noggin ain't so sharp anymore. When you have the valve covers off and you are rotating the engine to get TDC, watch for the intake valves to be compressed and return. Once they return, catch the first TDC mark for the appropriate cylinder as it comes around. If you miss it do it again.

I will be doing mine for the 2nd time, did them at 600 miles...I dont hear any ticking, but Im gonna check them anyway, I forgot to pick one of those screws up...I might get lucky and find one laying around, thanks for the tips Jim, It will be much easier this time. I also picked up a set of those mini driving lights to play around with(walmart), only thing I dont like, is they didnt come with a relay, the switch is 16Amp, but for 2 50 watt lights, I will add a relay.

[diamond_jim]

Originally Posted by 07M50Limited

I will be doing mine for the 2nd time, did them at 600 miles...I dont hear any ticking, but Im gonna check them anyway, I forgot to pick one of those screws up...I might get lucky and find one laying around, thanks for the tips Jim, It will be much easier this time. I also picked up a set of those mini driving lights to play around with(walmart), only thing I dont like, is they didnt come with a relay, the switch is 16Amp, but for 2 50 watt lights, I will add a relay.

Post a pic of the lights so we kind of know what your working with. Someone may have already used them and figured out the relay and all.

About the valves, it seems when I did mine, some seemed too tight and a few were a little loose and causing the tapping noise. If they were that tight when the engines cold, I imagine they are even tighter when it's warmed up. I coudn't get the 0.004 feeler gauge in the exhaust space which is supposed to be 0.006 to 0.008. I was reading some valve adjustment posts on VR and it seems several of them mentioned the valves being too tight when they inspected theirs the first time. I wonder if they normally come from the factory too tight? It seems like there imight be a trend forming. Maybe this is why they rarely need adjusting at the 600 mile service.

[07M50Limited]

I didnt check, what there were at(when I did them at 600), I should of. I just broke them all loose and set them at .003-.004 and .007-.008. Im going to check them today, and see if they changed. as for the lights...look in the light bar thread, I fogot his name and have to get busy, but he posted pic's with them on at night, and yes they were only $15.97...I have them in the garage, and will take a few pic's...and of the TFI install, while I have it all tore down

[diamond_jim]

Originally Posted by 07M50Limited

I didnt check, what there were at(when I did them at 600), I should of. I just broke them all loose and set them at .003-.004 and .007-.008. Im going to check them today, and see if they changed. as for the lights...look in the light bar thread, I fogot his name and have to get busy, but he posted pic's with them on at night, and yes they were only $15.97...I have them in the garage, and will take a few pic's...and of the TFI install, while I have it all tore down

Dang, boy! You don't mess around!

[profane]

cool thanks for the advice.

[diamond_jim]

Anybody tried making this tool yet? Any problems?

[rogerl]

I made the tool when I redid my valves and it worked fine. I found that I had trouble holding onto the tool and geting the 8mm wrench in when tightening the nut. I had made the steel "open ended" wrench when I did the valves the first time and that worked good for holding the stem when tightening the nut.

Roger L

[diamond_jim]

Originally Posted by rogerl

I made the tool when I redid my valves and it worked fine. I found that I had trouble holding onto the tool and geting the 8mm wrench in when tightening the nut. I had made the steel "open ended" wrench when I did the valves the first time and that worked good for holding the stem when tightening the nut.

Roger L

Was the tool you made like a steel version of the credit card tool?

[rogerl]

Yes, it is the credit card tool made out of steel. I took a piece of steel and milled a 3mm slot in it. I then used it to hold the stem while I tightened the lock nut. Below is a link that shows the tool.

http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/fo...ghlight=valves

Thanks
Roger L

[diamond_jim]

Cool, Roger. I hadn't seen that thread before.

[old codger]

Great idea for an adjustment tool, you must have more room on an m50 than on an S50. I just adjusted my valves this evening, one was slightly loose, I made the tool but there is no room to use it.

I retired yesterday so I am getting my s50 ready to do some serious riding. I plan on working a few days a month, the place I worked has asked me to do some training when they hire a new person, paperwork and equipment on the truck and etc. I will be putting a new rear tire on the S50 next week, while I am doing that I will take the shaft out and lube the splines.

I enjoy reading the suggestions people post, some great ideas appear here.

Old Codger

[diamond_jim]

Originally Posted by old codger

Great idea for an adjustment tool, you must have more room on an m50 than on an S50. I just adjusted my valves this evening, one was slightly loose, I made the tool but there is no room to use it.

I retired yesterday so I am getting my s50 ready to do some serious riding. I plan on working a few days a month, the place I worked has asked me to do some training when they hire a new person, paperwork and equipment on the truck and etc. I will be putting a new rear tire on the S50 next week, while I am doing that I will take the shaft out and lube the splines.

I enjoy reading the suggestions people post, some great ideas appear here.

Old Codger

I did shorten the wire nut before putting the screw in as I mentioned on the earlier post.

[Davy]

Originally Posted by diamond_jim

Post a pic of the lights so we kind of know what your working with. Someone may have already used them and figured out the relay and all.

About the valves, it seems when I did mine, some seemed too tight and a few were a little loose and causing the tapping noise. If they were that tight when the engines cold, I imagine they are even tighter when it's warmed up. I coudn't get the 0.004 feeler gauge in the exhaust space which is supposed to be 0.006 to 0.008. I was reading some valve adjustment posts on VR and it seems several of them mentioned the valves being too tight when they inspected theirs the first time. I wonder if they normally come from the factory too tight? It seems like there imight be a trend forming. Maybe this is why they rarely need adjusting at the 600 mile service.

I know this is a month old thread but thought it was relevant. I was told by the mechanic at the stealership that the when the valves for the 50 get out of adjustment they actually tighten instead of loosen, as I initially thought. So when they tighten you don't get the full compression thus less efficiency results. Anyone else hear this?

[nice rides]

I agree I used your fabricated tool and it worked great, it also worked on my grandson's older honda 50. Thanks a lot

Don