Ignition Switch Be Careful

[amvince]

My M ignition switch decided to give up and its going to cost me almost $300.00 to fix. It actually "melted" inside according to my Mechanic. He told me he feels that there is too much voltage running throught the switch. I asked them if it could be because of the 2 lights I installed into the extra plug inside the headlight. Anybody with a light bar have a similar issue? My guess is the switch was faulty since Suzuki puts the extra connection in the headlight for the light bar but I think I'm going to be safe and wire in a relay.

[mfifyguy]

[quote=amvince;451899]My M ignition switch decided to give up and its going to cost me almost $300.00 to fix. It actually "melted" inside according to my Mechanic. He told me he feels that there is too much voltage running throught the switch. I asked them if it could be because of the 2 lights I installed into the extra plug inside the headlight. Anybody with a light bar have a similar issue? My guess is the switch was faulty since Suzuki puts the extra connection in the headlight for the light bar but I think I'm going to be safe and wire in a relay.[/QUOTE

hmmm. how are the lights wired? parrallel or in series?

[05HDRAM]

Doesn't sound right to me. I am pretty sure that the accessory plug is already wired to a fuse, so it should blow the fuse before anything would get hot enough to melt. I would tend to think there may have been a short in the ingition switch, I can't see how else it would get hot enough to melt.

[amvince]

Originally Posted by 05HDRAM

Doesn't sound right to me. I am pretty sure that the accessory plug is already wired to a fuse, so it should blow the fuse before anything would get hot enough to melt. I would tend to think there may have been a short in the ingition switch, I can't see how else it would get hot enough to melt.

I feel the same way but I did see some light bars that had a relay kit with them. I may wire the relay in just to be sure.

[Ray Nielsen]

On the Intruder Alert and Volusia Riders web sites several people have had ignition switch failure and in these cases had added running lights powered by the extra connector in the headlight shell. This connector was intended for a "pilot" lamp of low wattage, not the higher wattage of running lights, and is used as such on foreign models.

Any switched power connection, like the white connector in the headlight shell, goes through the ignition switch and adds to the current draw. In my opinion, all extra high current comsuming devices should be wired through a relay to prevent this problem. Just my two bits worth on the subject.

Ray Nielsen, in Minneapolis and going for a ride today.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by mfifyguy

hmmm. how are the lights wired? parrallel or in series?

What ???

In series with what?

Lights are always in parallel with each other and in series with the switch.

(Well, some people do wierd stuff but almost always!)

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Ray Nielsen

Any switched power connection, like the white connector in the headlight shell, goes through the ignition switch and adds to the current draw. In my opinion, all extra high current comsuming devices should be wired through a relay to prevent this problem. Just my two bits worth on the subject.

Worth a lot more than 2 bits.

A BIG......

[05HDRAM]

I don't buy it, that plug is on a fused circuit. There is no way they would design it any other way. If the draw was too big, the fuse would blow not melt the ingition wiring. While I agree a relay should be used, I am not convinced this is the cause. There have been many issues posted that are not common with every bike, only a limited number.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by 05HDRAM

I don't buy it, that plug is on a fused circuit. There is no way they would design it any other way.

Oh, and engineers never make a mistake?
And they always properly anticipate every dumb thing that people will do?
And the production line never makes a mistake with the wrong size fuse......due to a clerical error in making the prints?

OK, if we assume that is true, then what is the next most likely cause?
Other than a manufacturing defect with the switch itself, I don't see one.

The only information that matters is: That connector was not designed to carry that much load. If you do it anyway, the ignition switch is likely to suffer. The reason doesn't matter.

[NCxM50]

You know, I realize you're bike is an '07, but it doesn't strike anyone as odd that there was a recall for this exact issue on '05/'06 models??

http://www.suzukicycles.com/Recalls/...33_Website.pdf

I realize it doesn't say that the wires actually melt, but it does say they rub enough to case a short circuit. An if the juice is enough, I've seen shorts melt the insulation on a wire easily enough.

I would bet that your bike got a left over '06 ignition switch... just my thought.

[amvince]

Well I checked with another Mechanic and it seems that the connector can't handle that much wattage on a regular basis. I would say its my fault so I've learned my lesson. I will now be changing the routing on wires next weekend when I get the bike back. I have also seen several light kits that recommend a relay. time to add a relay. Live. learn and go broke is my motto.



Kuryakyn Driving Light Bar

Important Information:
To avoid overloading existing circuits, we recommend using our wiring and relay kit, P/N 2328, when connecting the silver bullets. L.E.D. auxiliary turn signals are not D.O.T. approved and may require load equalizer, sold separately.

[old new biker]

I am running a pair of PILOT NV-501W 55W Driving Lights that are wired together, and directly into the plug in the headlight bucket.

It seems that I had better get a relay wired into this system ASAP.

I am not electrically inclined, so can anyone recommend a good basic relay, that maybe I can pick up at a local auto parts store, and give instructions on how to wire it into the bike, along with how and where to rout the wires?

Thanks in advance for helping me to correct a probable ignition issue.
Oldie........Standing by........

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by old new biker

I am not electrically inclined, so can anyone recommend a good basic relay, that maybe I can pick up at a local auto parts store, and give instructions on how to wire it into the bike, along with how and where to rout the wires?

First it would appear that not everybody with extra lights will have the problem. Can you get your hand on the ignition switch? If so, and it doesn't feel hot, no reason to panic. If it does feel hot, stilll no reason to panic; just disconnect the extra lights until you get a relay.

Most (I'm guessing all) major auto parts stores and bike shops and custom truck shops will have or can get a basic 12V aux. lighting relay. It should come with basic instructions. If you place it inside the pod, there won't be but a few inches of wiring to do.

[old new biker]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

First it would appear that not everybody with extra lights will have the problem. Can you get your hand on the ignition switch? If so, and it doesn't feel hot, no reason to panic. If it does feel hot, stilll no reason to panic; just disconnect the extra lights until you get a relay.

Most (I'm guessing all) major auto parts stores and bike shops and custom truck shops will have or can get a basic 12V aux. lighting relay. It should come with basic instructions. If you place it inside the pod, there won't be but a few inches of wiring to do.

Thanks Easy,

I am not panicking, because I can, as you say, disconnect the lights until I can get a relay installed. I just don't like riding without them. Being seen during the day, and being able to see at night are important.

I guess it will be a good project for tomorrow. I will get my manual out tonight and study up on the wiring for that plug. It is awful tight in that housing though.

Thanks again for the info.

[old new biker]

OK I got out the box of leftovers from the installation of my running lights, and checked the supplied fuse, (which I did not use since I wired directly into the fused accessory connector in the Headlight Pod). The supplied fuse is a 15 amp fuse.
I also got out the M50 Owners Manual, found the main wiring diagram, and traced the wires from the component in the Headlight Pod named Option.
This might be overkill, but here goes. They are connected to many components, several 10amp fuses, and one 15amp fuse as follows:

Wire 1) B/W goes to Fuse - 10amp - (No. 6. Power Source 10A)
WIre 2) O/Bl goes everywhere as follows:

Speedometer Module
Headlight
Pilot Lamp
Fuel Pump
ECM Module (2 plcs)
Regulator Rectifier (2 plcs)
Into Non Labeled Module (5ea.Wires Labeled "B")
Out From Non Labeled Module as follows:
1a ) Fuse Box to small non labeled component
1b ) Fuse - 15amp - labeled (4. Ignition 15A)
1c ) Ignition Switch
1d ) Starter Safety Relay
2a ) Fuel Pump Relay
2b ) Pair Solenoid
2c ) HO2 Sensor
2d ) Ignition Coils (R) and (F)
2e ) Engine Stop / Starter Button / Front Brake Switch - Module
3 ) ECM
4a ) Fuel Pump Relay
4b ) ECM
4c ) Headlight
4d ) Fuse 10amp labeled (1. Head Hi 10A)

As I stated above, I am electronically challenged, but it seems to me that this circuit is heavily fused, and since my running lights are designed for only 15amps, and are fused directly with a 10amp fuse, it should be OK.

Am I right or am I all wet and simply giving into wishful thinking?

If I do end up needing to install a relay, I prefer that these lights still turn on and off with the Ignition Switch, so that I don't forget to turn them off and kill the battery. I will need guidance as to exactly which wires to use, to get into the ignition switch, and were to find them, and am in hopes that someone out there knows how to do this and has the patience to help me through the process.

Thanks,
Oldie......Standing By......

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by old new biker

Am I right or am I all wet and simply giving into wishful thinking?

No, you are wrong.......but only because there appears to be an engineering problem somewhere along the way. Either the fuse feeding that connector and the associated lights is WAY too big or......the contacts in the switch are WAY too small or have insufficient tension.

Your looking at the specs and drawings and concluding that things are OK is the same mistake that lots of others have made..........including, apparently, some folks at the factory.

You won't need any wires back to the switch; those are present in the connector already. What you will need is a fairly heavy wire back to the fuse box or directly to the battery with an inline fuse. If done right, the aux. lights will function exactly as they do now.

And once more with feeling: Have you considered FEELING the switch after it's been running a good while to see if you even HAVE a problem ????

[old new biker]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

You won't need any wires back to the switch; those are present in the connector already. What you will need is a fairly heavy wire back to the fuse box or directly to the battery with an inline fuse. If done right, the aux. lights will function exactly as they do now.

And once more with feeling: Have you considered FEELING the switch after it's been running a good while to see if you even HAVE a problem ????

No I have the seat over at MeanCityCycles getting the double decker mod, and the JK Forwards are apart for installation of an engine guard, for which I need to shorten the front spacer and make a couple of adapters and can't do that till I get to work on Tuesday. Long story short, I will not be able to ride the bike until next weekend.

OK, I found a very small 40amp relay that should fit in the headlight pod, and I think I understand how to wire it up. Check me out on this.

1) Wire the two connectors front the "OPTION" connector through the control switch in the relay.
2) Run the hot wire from the running lights through the power side of the relay, then through the 15 amp fuse, and then back to the battery.
3) Ground the other wire from the running lights to the frame of the bike, and if so would it work to ground to the triple tree on the fork or should I go to the main frame beyond the triple tree?

OK, now do I have this correct or am I still missing something still?
If I have this correct, I have some questions regarding the relay (Duralast 19B08).

1) Control side designations are 30 and 87. Which is the hot side?
2) Power side designations are 85 and 86. Which is the hot side?

The man at Auto Zone said that the higher number is always the hot side. Is this correct?

[Easy Rider]

(Note: Too lazy to make this look "purdy" so my comments added will start with ER:

1) Wire the two connectors front the "OPTION" connector through the control switch in the relay.

ER: If you mean control WINDING, then yes.

2) Run the hot wire from the running lights through the power side of the relay, then through the 15 amp fuse, and then back to the battery.

ER: I think that's right. From lights to one power contact pin on relay. Other power contact pin to a NEW (previously unused) 15 amp fuse. If this is an inline fuse you install yourself, it needs to be as close to the battery as you can manage. No more than a couple of inches.

3) Ground the other wire from the running lights to the frame of the bike, and if so would it work to ground to the triple tree on the fork or should I go to the main frame beyond the triple tree?

ER: Trace the ground wires from the rest of the front lights. Attach yours nearby where they are attached. It is usually not a good idea to connect forward of the head bearings.

1) Control side designations are 30 and 87. Which is the hot side?

ER: Don't know. Put power to one and ground to the other. If it goes CLICK then it's right. Reversing won't hurt anything; it just won't operate. You can test this with a battery charger ahead of time.

2) Power side designations are 85 and 96. Which is the hot side?

ER: Doesn't make any difference. The switch contacts are not polarity sensitive.

Good luck! Hope you actually get to ride again soon!

[old new biker]

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Good luck! Hope you actually get to ride again soon!

Hey there Easy,

Thanks for the clarification of my plans, and for the hopes that I will ride again soon. I will ride again in about a week, when my seat is back and on my bike.

I found a nice small Duralast 40 amp relay at Auto Zone that I think will fit in the headlight bucket, and I am confident that, thanks to your patience and support, I know exactly how to wire this up. I will, of course, have to diagram it out so that I can follow it, but I understand the principle.

This is why I love this forum. It is made up of people who love to ride, and who love to help others keep riding. There is rarely any flaming, or insults because someone does not know how to do something that someone else thinks should be duck soup.

Thanks again EasyRider,
I will keep you posted as to how it goes for this electronic neophyte.

Oldie out...........

[Hotform]

Keep us posted Old New Biker on how you get this all wired up. My driving lights are wired the same as yours off of your plans several months ago when we were all making light bars.
So far though, I have not noticed anything with the ignition switch even getting slightly warm to the touch, much less hot.