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Marauder M50 Secret Hideaway It's for Marauder M50 owners!

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Old 10-01-2007, 10:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
Puddle Runner
 
Whiskey_williams's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Bike: Suzuki Boulevard M50
Location: Stationed in FL currently
Posts: 382
Default M50 stock straight pipes how-to

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your motorcycle or its exhaust pipes. This thread is simply a HOW TO if one wanted to know how removing the plates from the exhaust would be done. I am not encouraging you to do this, I am merely telling you one of the many methods of doing it.



OK, this thread is for people wanting to know if it's possible to convert M50 pipes into straight pipes AFTER HAVING ALREADY REMOVED THE BAFFLES, how, and what it sounds like. I searched all over to get my info to do mine, now I'll try to combine them all into one thread to minimize people's searching. This is also the poor man's way of doing it! If you have hole saws and stuff, there are other threads for that method. I used the poor man's method and it worked fine..

I found a super easy method to do it:

tools
1.Sledge Hammer (can be small, just make sure it's meaner than a ball peen)

2.1 to 1.25 inch in diameter pipe about 2-3 feet long. Make sure it is strong enough to not bend from the sledge's force. We will call this pipe a "cheater bar".

3.Pair of Channel Locks or vice grips. (channel locks are better)

4.Small, strong piece of metal wire similar to what chain link fences are made of. (make sure it's straight, and about 2 feet long.)

5.A flashlight unless it's light enough to see all the way down your exhaust pipe.

6.Your keys and a helmet (optional), oh and eye protection is recommened obviously.

How To
1. Take your keys and start your bike, then go for a ride. Make it about 10-15 minutes worth of riding, and make sure the pipes warm up real good. Don't stop riding until your pipes are really hot, which shouldn't take too long.

2.After the ride, take the cheater bar, insert it into whichever exhaust pipe you want to start with, and try to hang it on one of the holes. People call it the "mickey plate" because there are 3 holes that sort of resemble Mickey Mouse's head. Those holes are actually small pipes sticking into that part of the exhaust pipe. It's like an exhuast pipe inside an exhaust pipe. You can get your cheater bar to hang on the mini-exhaust pipes, which will make it easier to keep it steady and flush with the plate while you hammer.

3. Take your sledge, think about something that makes you mad, then start hammering away at the cheater bar, nice and steady, and try to make sure the cheater bar isn't bouncing off the plate every time. You want it to be pushing through. It make take a few hits to starts to push it through, so don't give up. Every once in awhile look down the exhaust pipe to see your progress, or see where you may can get a new grip and single out a particular weld to attack. Since the plates are hot from the riding, it shouldn't take too long.

4. After the plate breaks free from the welds, it will probably look kinda mangled. This is the hard part. Take your channel locks and bend your metal wire into a hook shape at the end. Look at the plate to see how you should form the hook. Mine was just a nice curvy hook, like a U shape just at the end of the wire. Now reach in and hook the plate and drag it out. This part caused me to panic alittle. Don't yank on the plate because it will dig itself into the mesh-like-inside of the exhaust pipe. If that happens, take your cheater bar and push it back. If you have to, use your cheater bar and sledge and try to bend the plate into more of a "taco" shape. Look at the plate and see it's shaped, and how the inside of the exhaust is. You may have to use your hook to turn it to dodge the welds you broke on the way out.

5.Once you get the plate out, congratulations, you have removed the mickey plate! The mickey plate is the second plate, if you want to go all out straight pipes, you can hammer the 3rd plate out using the same process, and it's actually the easiest to do.

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If you are still not sure about what these plates are, I'll explain:
AFTER the baffles have been taken out, there are 2 more plates in 1 single exhaust pipe. The first plate after the baffles is the "mickey plate". The plate after that is what I call the "3rd plate". So in total, not counting your baffles, there are 4 plates in your exhaust pipes. This HOW TO is on removing those 4 plates to turn your M50 stock exhaust into straight pipes.

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Is it worth it? If you have already debaffled and you still want it to be louder, YES IT'S WORTH IT. After I did mine, I was a little worried it would be TOO loud, or it would sound completely different. Well, it sounds pretty much the same, just ALOT louder when you give it some gas. It also seemed alittle bit more powerful, but that may just be in my head. You can actually hear it idle now, kind of a low rumble, not like a Harley, but like a louder M50, and then when you give it gas, people will turn their heads and say "Whoa! What kind of monster machine is that?!" Then they will see you and say "Ohh, it's an really angry Suzuki Boulevard M50, wow, that sounds great!"
And they will be correct.
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Will it damage my bike or will I have to buy an FI unit or anything? From the research I've done, no. From what I've researched, the only time you need an FI unit is if you mess with the air intake or the filter. I will personally be riding mine with straight pipes to see if it messes anything up, and if it does, I will update this thread telling how, why, or what happened. I don't think it will, though. I've herd of other people doing this, and I haven't heard any complaints, only praise.

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NOTE:I will be adding pics of the step by step process, then I will upload a video of whatthe pipes sound like, probably tomorrow after work.