M50 stock straight pipes how-to - Motorcycle-Journal Forums

Whiskey_williams · 10-01-2007, 10:04 PM

Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your motorcycle or its exhaust pipes. This thread is simply a HOW TO if one wanted to know how removing the plates from the exhaust would be done. I am not encouraging you to do this, I am merely telling you one of the many methods of doing it.

OK, this thread is for people wanting to know if it's possible to convert M50 pipes into straight pipes AFTER HAVING ALREADY REMOVED THE BAFFLES, how, and what it sounds like. I searched all over to get my info to do mine, now I'll try to combine them all into one thread to minimize people's searching. This is also the poor man's way of doing it! If you have hole saws and stuff, there are other threads for that method. I used the poor man's method and it worked fine..

I found a super easy method to do it:

tools
1.Sledge Hammer (can be small, just make sure it's meaner than a ball peen)

2.1 to 1.25 inch in diameter pipe about 2-3 feet long. Make sure it is strong enough to not bend from the sledge's force. We will call this pipe a "cheater bar".

3.Pair of Channel Locks or vice grips. (channel locks are better)

4.Small, strong piece of metal wire similar to what chain link fences are made of. (make sure it's straight, and about 2 feet long.)

5.A flashlight unless it's light enough to see all the way down your exhaust pipe.

6.Your keys and a helmet (optional), oh and eye protection is recommened obviously.

How To
1. Take your keys and start your bike, then go for a ride. Make it about 10-15 minutes worth of riding, and make sure the pipes warm up real good. Don't stop riding until your pipes are really hot, which shouldn't take too long.

2.After the ride, take the cheater bar, insert it into whichever exhaust pipe you want to start with, and try to hang it on one of the holes. People call it the "mickey plate" because there are 3 holes that sort of resemble Mickey Mouse's head. Those holes are actually small pipes sticking into that part of the exhaust pipe. It's like an exhuast pipe inside an exhaust pipe. You can get your cheater bar to hang on the mini-exhaust pipes, which will make it easier to keep it steady and flush with the plate while you hammer.

3. Take your sledge, think about something that makes you mad, then start hammering away at the cheater bar, nice and steady, and try to make sure the cheater bar isn't bouncing off the plate every time. You want it to be pushing through. It make take a few hits to starts to push it through, so don't give up. Every once in awhile look down the exhaust pipe to see your progress, or see where you may can get a new grip and single out a particular weld to attack. Since the plates are hot from the riding, it shouldn't take too long.

4. After the plate breaks free from the welds, it will probably look kinda mangled. This is the hard part. Take your channel locks and bend your metal wire into a hook shape at the end. Look at the plate to see how you should form the hook. Mine was just a nice curvy hook, like a U shape just at the end of the wire. Now reach in and hook the plate and drag it out. This part caused me to panic alittle. Don't yank on the plate because it will dig itself into the mesh-like-inside of the exhaust pipe. If that happens, take your cheater bar and push it back. If you have to, use your cheater bar and sledge and try to bend the plate into more of a "taco" shape. Look at the plate and see it's shaped, and how the inside of the exhaust is. You may have to use your hook to turn it to dodge the welds you broke on the way out.

5.Once you get the plate out, congratulations, you have removed the mickey plate! The mickey plate is the second plate, if you want to go all out straight pipes, you can hammer the 3rd plate out using the same process, and it's actually the easiest to do.

************************************************** ********

If you are still not sure about what these plates are, I'll explain:
AFTER the baffles have been taken out, there are 2 more plates in 1 single exhaust pipe. The first plate after the baffles is the "mickey plate". The plate after that is what I call the "3rd plate". So in total, not counting your baffles, there are 4 plates in your exhaust pipes. This HOW TO is on removing those 4 plates to turn your M50 stock exhaust into straight pipes.

************************************************** ********

Is it worth it? If you have already debaffled and you still want it to be louder, YES IT'S WORTH IT. After I did mine, I was a little worried it would be TOO loud, or it would sound completely different. Well, it sounds pretty much the same, just ALOT louder when you give it some gas. It also seemed alittle bit more powerful, but that may just be in my head. You can actually hear it idle now, kind of a low rumble, not like a Harley, but like a louder M50, and then when you give it gas, people will turn their heads and say "Whoa! What kind of monster machine is that?!" Then they will see you and say "Ohh, it's an really angry Suzuki Boulevard M50, wow, that sounds great!"
And they will be correct.
************************************************** ********
Will it damage my bike or will I have to buy an FI unit or anything? From the research I've done, no. From what I've researched, the only time you need an FI unit is if you mess with the air intake or the filter. I will personally be riding mine with straight pipes to see if it messes anything up, and if it does, I will update this thread telling how, why, or what happened. I don't think it will, though. I've herd of other people doing this, and I haven't heard any complaints, only praise.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
NOTE:I will be adding pics of the step by step process, then I will upload a video of whatthe pipes sound like, probably tomorrow after work.

digitalbroccoli · 10-01-2007, 10:33 PM

I like the way you wrote it up,. but this method is just asking for damage from a slip with the bar or the hammer. I'd personally spend the 12 bucks on the hole saw attachment for a drill.

Whiskey_williams · 10-01-2007, 10:51 PM

Yea i popped myself once, but that's why the cheater bar is long, so you have room to miss. I missed the cheater bar a few times with a full force swing but full force really isn't that much. I guess if you swung and let the sledge slip out of your hand you could mess something up, but if you have any experience with a hammer yo should be OK. Plus, for me it would have been 12 bucks for an attachment, then however much a good drill costs

.

JohnnyFriend · 10-02-2007, 04:55 AM

Nice write up.

I have the hole saw from when I de-baffeled the first plate.
How would I use it to take out the mickey plate?

Did you take out all the plates or did you leave the last one in?
I want to make mine louder but not wake up the neighborhood loud

IndianJim · 10-02-2007, 01:45 PM

I did this a few months ago Whiskey, and I'm very happy with the results. I had the hardest time with the plate all the way in the front of the slip on. I actually knocked it out from the front end with a cold chisel. I have tried V&H on the bike, but this is by far the best way to go in my opinion.

SNAFU · 10-02-2007, 02:45 PM

What, no the you tube video?

I'll be waiting.....

Whiskey_williams · 10-02-2007, 06:55 PM

OK, here's the pics:

The tools

Beating the Mickey plate out

Hooking the plate

Bingo

Dead Mickey Plate

And here's the video. Sorry, my camera doesn't to the sound justice, seriously:
YouTube - M50 Stock Straight Pipes!

Whiskey_williams · 10-02-2007, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnnyFriend

Nice write up.

I have the hole saw from when I de-baffeled the first plate.
How would I use it to take out the mickey plate?

Did you take out all the plates or did you leave the last one in?
I want to make mine louder but not wake up the neighborhood loud

I took all of the plates out. After I took the Mickey plate out I started the bike and it was a little bit louder. The change in sound from no baffles to no mickey plate isn't much, but the change from no mickey plates to nothing is a prety big difference! The mickey plate and 3rd plate are just plates of metal with short pipes in them, so if you have the hole saw attachment, you could just cut the hole through and you're done! There would be no "donut making" with the plate, just one clean cut to take the plate out. I just don't have a drill so I did it the other way. My neighboorhood's speed limit is only 20 miles an hour, so I don't really wake people up with the straight pipes. It's not super loud just rolling along, IMO it souds perfect. Now when you get on it, it might wake them up lol. Just don't drive it like you stole it til you get on the main roads.

JohnnyFriend · 10-02-2007, 07:56 PM

Thanks--but I never drive like I stole it

I drive like i'm being chased by someone that wants to steal it!!

Nice write up--it should be a sticky

Whiskey_williams · 10-02-2007, 08:06 PM

[quote=JohnnyFriend;366817]

I drive like i'm being chased by someone that wants to steal it!!

QUOTE]

Haha! I like that, ever consider going into the bumper sticker business?

SNAFU · 10-02-2007, 10:20 PM

Hey? My kill switch doesn't make a "poop" sound.

I'm glad you're happy with it.

Alex13 · 10-03-2007, 09:25 PM

How did you go about getting the baffles out without a hole saw? I am sure you didn't beat those to pieces too? I know how to do it, I was just wondering how you did?

Whiskey_williams · 10-03-2007, 10:02 PM

I used just a large drill bit, drilled abunch of holes close together in a circle, and then used tin-snips to cut the metal in-between the holes (I was able to take my bike to my work's tool shop at the time). After that, I just put a broom stick in the baffle and moved it around until it was weak enough to be removed.

srt03 · 10-04-2007, 02:24 PM

I like this idea. I might just have to try this. When using the hole saw do you just need to use the wider one or both like when removing the baffles?

Whiskey_williams · 10-04-2007, 10:20 PM

just the wider one, because there's no baffle behind the pate, just holes pretty much.

JohnnyFriend · 10-06-2007, 08:26 PM

OK I took the "mickey" plates out today--it sounds the same to me,maby just a hair louder but now the bike blows a little black smoke and smells rich.
I already de-baffeled and have a thunder intake with the fi2000 and it ran good with no smoke. I want to take the last baffel out but want to stop the smoking first--which pot on the fi2000 needs to be adjusted for this?

JohnnyFriend · 10-07-2007, 07:31 PM

Ok I took the last baffel's out and now I don't have to buy pipes

It definitly sounds alot better--louder--&meaner

Forget my previous post about the black smoke--it was just the soot that I knocked loose from all the banging. It stopped after a few minutes

usmcdevildog · 10-28-2007, 01:41 PM

Ok I took out these two plates and now it seems like the bike slows down a lot faster when I let off the throttle. I can bring it to a stop without using the brakes. Has anyone else noticed this??

dreygun · 08-18-2008, 07:02 PM

so the mickey has the three little pipes running into it. do these come out too with the plate or are they not attached to anything behind the plate?

nicocorea · 08-18-2008, 10:42 PM

Here's a pic of the 2 mickeys and the 2 cyclopses (after removal). There are only two little tubes running through the mickey, and they're part of the plate.

http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/fo...1-img-2953.jpg

10-01-2007, 10:04 PM	#1 (permalink)
Whiskey_williams Puddle Runner Joined: Feb 2007 Bike: Suzuki Boulevard M50 Location: Stationed in FL currently Posts: 382	M50 stock straight pipes how-to Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your motorcycle or its exhaust pipes. This thread is simply a HOW TO if one wanted to know how removing the plates from the exhaust would be done. I am not encouraging you to do this, I am merely telling you one of the many methods of doing it. OK, this thread is for people wanting to know if it's possible to convert M50 pipes into straight pipes AFTER HAVING ALREADY REMOVED THE BAFFLES, how, and what it sounds like. I searched all over to get my info to do mine, now I'll try to combine them all into one thread to minimize people's searching. This is also the poor man's way of doing it! If you have hole saws and stuff, there are other threads for that method. I used the poor man's method and it worked fine.. I found a super easy method to do it: tools 1.Sledge Hammer (can be small, just make sure it's meaner than a ball peen) 2.1 to 1.25 inch in diameter pipe about 2-3 feet long. Make sure it is strong enough to not bend from the sledge's force. We will call this pipe a "cheater bar". 3.Pair of Channel Locks or vice grips. (channel locks are better) 4.Small, strong piece of metal wire similar to what chain link fences are made of. (make sure it's straight, and about 2 feet long.) 5.A flashlight unless it's light enough to see all the way down your exhaust pipe. 6.Your keys and a helmet (optional), oh and eye protection is recommened obviously. How To 1. Take your keys and start your bike, then go for a ride. Make it about 10-15 minutes worth of riding, and make sure the pipes warm up real good. Don't stop riding until your pipes are really hot, which shouldn't take too long. 2.After the ride, take the cheater bar, insert it into whichever exhaust pipe you want to start with, and try to hang it on one of the holes. People call it the "mickey plate" because there are 3 holes that sort of resemble Mickey Mouse's head. Those holes are actually small pipes sticking into that part of the exhaust pipe. It's like an exhuast pipe inside an exhaust pipe. You can get your cheater bar to hang on the mini-exhaust pipes, which will make it easier to keep it steady and flush with the plate while you hammer. 3. Take your sledge, think about something that makes you mad, then start hammering away at the cheater bar, nice and steady, and try to make sure the cheater bar isn't bouncing off the plate every time. You want it to be pushing through. It make take a few hits to starts to push it through, so don't give up. Every once in awhile look down the exhaust pipe to see your progress, or see where you may can get a new grip and single out a particular weld to attack. Since the plates are hot from the riding, it shouldn't take too long. 4. After the plate breaks free from the welds, it will probably look kinda mangled. This is the hard part. Take your channel locks and bend your metal wire into a hook shape at the end. Look at the plate to see how you should form the hook. Mine was just a nice curvy hook, like a U shape just at the end of the wire. Now reach in and hook the plate and drag it out. This part caused me to panic alittle. Don't yank on the plate because it will dig itself into the mesh-like-inside of the exhaust pipe. If that happens, take your cheater bar and push it back. If you have to, use your cheater bar and sledge and try to bend the plate into more of a "taco" shape. Look at the plate and see it's shaped, and how the inside of the exhaust is. You may have to use your hook to turn it to dodge the welds you broke on the way out. 5.Once you get the plate out, congratulations, you have removed the mickey plate! The mickey plate is the second plate, if you want to go all out straight pipes, you can hammer the 3rd plate out using the same process, and it's actually the easiest to do. ************************************************ **** If you are still not sure about what these plates are, I'll explain: AFTER the baffles have been taken out, there are 2 more plates in 1 single exhaust pipe. The first plate after the baffles is the "mickey plate". The plate after that is what I call the "3rd plate". So in total, not counting your baffles, there are 4 plates in your exhaust pipes. This HOW TO is on removing those 4 plates to turn your M50 stock exhaust into straight pipes. ********************************************** **** Is it worth it? If you have already debaffled and you still want it to be louder, YES IT'S WORTH IT. After I did mine, I was a little worried it would be TOO loud, or it would sound completely different. Well, it sounds pretty much the same, just ALOT louder when you give it some gas. It also seemed alittle bit more powerful, but that may just be in my head. You can actually hear it idle now, kind of a low rumble, not like a Harley, but like a louder M50, and then when you give it gas, people will turn their heads and say "Whoa! What kind of monster machine is that?!" Then they will see you and say "Ohh, it's an really angry Suzuki Boulevard M50, wow, that sounds great!" And they will be correct. ********************************************** **** Will it damage my bike or will I have to buy an FI unit or anything?** From the research I've done, no. From what I've researched, the only time you need an FI unit is if you mess with the air intake or the filter. I will personally be riding mine with straight pipes to see if it messes anything up, and if it does, I will update this thread telling how, why, or what happened. I don't think it will, though. I've herd of other people doing this, and I haven't heard any complaints, only praise. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ NOTE:I will be adding pics of the step by step process, then I will upload a video of whatthe pipes sound like, probably tomorrow after work. __________________ "Some day you too will know my pain, and smile it's black tooth grin!" 07 Black M50, ISO handgrips, stiletto end caps, debadged and de-stickered, debaffled stock pipes, Hellcat windshield.

10-01-2007, 10:33 PM	#2 (permalink)
digitalbroccoli U.B's LoveChild Joined: Jan 2007 Bike: 06 M50 in Bluuuuuuuuue Location: Sodus, NY Posts: 1,059	I like the way you wrote it up,. but this method is just asking for damage from a slip with the bar or the hammer. I'd personally spend the 12 bucks on the hole saw attachment for a drill. __________________ 06 Blue M50 - tattoo profiler and bags, pciii, hypercharger, cruzers, drag bars, lots of other goodies. 99 black bandit - winter project. mwahahaha.

10-01-2007, 10:51 PM	#3 (permalink)
Whiskey_williams Puddle Runner Joined: Feb 2007 Bike: Suzuki Boulevard M50 Location: Stationed in FL currently Posts: 382	Yea i popped myself once, but that's why the cheater bar is long, so you have room to miss. I missed the cheater bar a few times with a full force swing but full force really isn't that much. I guess if you swung and let the sledge slip out of your hand you could mess something up, but if you have any experience with a hammer yo should be OK. Plus, for me it would have been 12 bucks for an attachment, then however much a good drill costs . __________________ "Some day you too will know my pain, and smile it's black tooth grin!" 07 Black M50, ISO handgrips, stiletto end caps, debadged and de-stickered, debaffled stock pipes, Hellcat windshield.

10-02-2007, 04:55 AM	#4 (permalink)
JohnnyFriend Ditch Magnet Joined: May 2007 Bike: 06 M50 Location: Nassau,Long Island Posts: 186	Nice write up. I have the hole saw from when I de-baffeled the first plate. How would I use it to take out the mickey plate? Did you take out all the plates or did you leave the last one in? I want to make mine louder but not wake up the neighborhood loud __________________

10-02-2007, 02:45 PM	#6 (permalink)
SNAFU Just Won't Go Away ! Joined: Mar 2006 Bike: '06 M50 Black Location: Winnipeg, Canada Posts: 5,006	What, no the you tube video? I'll be waiting..... __________________

10-02-2007, 01:45 PM	#5 (permalink)
IndianJim Newbie Joined: Jun 2007 Bike: 2002 Indian Spirit, 2007 Suzuki M50 Location: Newark, DE Posts: 18	I did this a few months ago Whiskey, and I'm very happy with the results. I had the hardest time with the plate all the way in the front of the slip on. I actually knocked it out from the front end with a cold chisel. I have tried V&H on the bike, but this is by far the best way to go in my opinion.

10-02-2007, 06:55 PM	#7 (permalink)
Whiskey_williams Puddle Runner Joined: Feb 2007 Bike: Suzuki Boulevard M50 Location: Stationed in FL currently Posts: 382	OK, here's the pics: The tools Beating the Mickey plate out Hooking the plate Bingo Dead Mickey Plate And here's the video. Sorry, my camera doesn't to the sound justice, seriously: YouTube - M50 Stock Straight Pipes! __________________ "Some day you too will know my pain, and smile it's black tooth grin!" 07 Black M50, ISO handgrips, stiletto end caps, debadged and de-stickered, debaffled stock pipes, Hellcat windshield.

10-02-2007, 07:56 PM	#9 (permalink)
JohnnyFriend Ditch Magnet Joined: May 2007 Bike: 06 M50 Location: Nassau,Long Island Posts: 186	Thanks--but I never drive like I stole it I drive like i'm being chased by someone that wants to steal it!! Nice write up--it should be a sticky __________________

10-02-2007, 08:06 PM	#10 (permalink)
Whiskey_williams Puddle Runner Joined: Feb 2007 Bike: Suzuki Boulevard M50 Location: Stationed in FL currently Posts: 382	[quote=JohnnyFriend;366817] I drive like i'm being chased by someone that wants to steal it!! QUOTE] Haha! I like that, ever consider going into the bumper sticker business? __________________ "Some day you too will know my pain, and smile it's black tooth grin!" 07 Black M50, ISO handgrips, stiletto end caps, debadged and de-stickered, debaffled stock pipes, Hellcat windshield.

10-02-2007, 10:20 PM	#11 (permalink)
SNAFU Just Won't Go Away ! Joined: Mar 2006 Bike: '06 M50 Black Location: Winnipeg, Canada Posts: 5,006	Hey? My kill switch doesn't make a "poop" sound. I'm glad you're happy with it. __________________

10-03-2007, 09:25 PM	#12 (permalink)
Alex13 Third gear and cruising Joined: Sep 2007 Bike: 2007 Boulevard M50 (Black) Location: Stockbridge, GA Posts: 481	How did you go about getting the baffles out without a hole saw? I am sure you didn't beat those to pieces too? I know how to do it, I was just wondering how you did?

10-03-2007, 10:02 PM	#13 (permalink)
Whiskey_williams Puddle Runner Joined: Feb 2007 Bike: Suzuki Boulevard M50 Location: Stationed in FL currently Posts: 382	I used just a large drill bit, drilled abunch of holes close together in a circle, and then used tin-snips to cut the metal in-between the holes (I was able to take my bike to my work's tool shop at the time). After that, I just put a broom stick in the baffle and moved it around until it was weak enough to be removed. __________________ "Some day you too will know my pain, and smile it's black tooth grin!" 07 Black M50, ISO handgrips, stiletto end caps, debadged and de-stickered, debaffled stock pipes, Hellcat windshield.

10-04-2007, 02:24 PM	#14 (permalink)
srt03 Seat Tester Joined: Apr 2007 Bike: 2006 M50 Black Location: Redmond, Wa Posts: 66	I like this idea. I might just have to try this. When using the hole saw do you just need to use the wider one or both like when removing the baffles? __________________ 2006 M50 Black Debaffled Sissy Bar w/rack Corbin Dual Tour Seat John's Kit's forward controls 2004 M6 GTO Flowmaster Catback w/resonator delete 8000k HID kit Predator tuner K&N CAI 318whp and 337wtq (before tune)

10-04-2007, 10:20 PM	#15 (permalink)
Whiskey_williams Puddle Runner Joined: Feb 2007 Bike: Suzuki Boulevard M50 Location: Stationed in FL currently Posts: 382	just the wider one, because there's no baffle behind the pate, just holes pretty much. __________________ "Some day you too will know my pain, and smile it's black tooth grin!" 07 Black M50, ISO handgrips, stiletto end caps, debadged and de-stickered, debaffled stock pipes, Hellcat windshield.

10-06-2007, 08:26 PM	#16 (permalink)
JohnnyFriend Ditch Magnet Joined: May 2007 Bike: 06 M50 Location: Nassau,Long Island Posts: 186	OK I took the "mickey" plates out today--it sounds the same to me,maby just a hair louder but now the bike blows a little black smoke and smells rich. I already de-baffeled and have a thunder intake with the fi2000 and it ran good with no smoke. I want to take the last baffel out but want to stop the smoking first--which pot on the fi2000 needs to be adjusted for this? __________________

08-18-2008, 07:02 PM	#19 (permalink)
dreygun Found second gear by accident Joined: Aug 2008 Bike: 2006 silver M50 Location: barrie, ontario, canada Posts: 305	so the mickey has the three little pipes running into it. do these come out too with the plate or are they not attached to anything behind the plate? __________________ Tom Poh @ Dreygunz Decalz Custom Stickers/ Banners 2006 silver debadged M50/ kury iso-grips ( with throttle boss, grip spikes, front & back pegs, clutch & brake covers)/ chrome accents (oil and brake cap)/ garmin Zumo 550 Gps/ Stock pipes (debaffled, demickey'd, blacked out header side)/ leather saddlebags & supports/ sissy bar & rack/ memphis fat 13" clear/ roadrunner cup holder/ HD fork pouch/ PC3/ 32" drag bar/ sidemount curved plate mount/ clear signals/ johnskit 3in lowering/ chrome rad cover/ Integrated signal back light kit/ removed OEM back signals and license housing/ Sickle Stem Lucifer Mirrors/ kury ultra tour bag/ JK's forward controls. Coming soon: Hypercharger/ adaptor.

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10-07-2007, 07:31 PM	#17 (permalink)
JohnnyFriend Ditch Magnet Joined: May 2007 Bike: 06 M50 Location: Nassau,Long Island Posts: 186	Ok I took the last baffel's out and now I don't have to buy pipes It definitly sounds alot better--louder--&meaner Forget my previous post about the black smoke--it was just the soot that I knocked loose from all the banging. It stopped after a few minutes __________________

10-28-2007, 01:41 PM	#18 (permalink)
usmcdevildog Newbie Joined: May 2007 Bike: Suzuki M50 Location: Twin Cities, MN Posts: 22	Ok I took out these two plates and now it seems like the bike slows down a lot faster when I let off the throttle. I can bring it to a stop without using the brakes. Has anyone else noticed this??

08-18-2008, 10:42 PM	#20 (permalink)
nicocorea Found second gear by accident Joined: Apr 2008 Bike: 2008 VZ800/Z Black Location: Albuquerque NM Posts: 319	Here's a pic of the 2 mickeys and the 2 cyclopses (after removal). There are only two little tubes running through the mickey, and they're part of the plate. http://www.motorcycle-journal.com/fo...1-img-2953.jpg Last edited by nicocorea; 08-18-2008 at 10:46 PM.

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