$1500 Nighthawk 750 Good Deal?

[919Hooligan]

Originally Posted by SpeedCostsMoney

Ouch! Seems there are more issues with the bike I fear. The treatment did not take inside the fuel tank and the carburetors are completely shot. They all need to be completely rebuilt. To get it on the road I’m looking at the rebuilds and a completely new fuel tank.

This is starting to get a bit pricey.

Bummer. How much are the rebuild kits?

[SpeedCostsMoney]

I'm having Honda do the rebuilds because I don't have the facilities or the knowledge to adjusted 4 carburetors. The tank can be done myself but runs 700+ dollars new.

[omegajim]

The tank can be done myself but runs 700+ dollars new.

I remember not that long ago being in a similar situation, the dealer parts were mucho expensive. Fortunately, I found a bone yard (this, before the internet) and got the parts I needed for a FRACTION of the cost.

With a 750, you shouldn't have a problem getting a tank (albeit one that might have a dent in it) for probably $75. Usually the tanks get dinged when the bike gets dumped (or in an accident).

Check around the 'net and there should be a bike boneyard within a few miles and all boneyards are connected to the 'net, so once you find one decent boneyard, you are hooked into the network. You could order over the 'net yourself, but by going to the local boneyard you can learn a lot from people who work around bikes all day, every day.

BTW, although this is a little too late, you prolly could've gotten a set of carbs, too. Remarkably enough, a set of carbs is likely to be more readily available than a tank (when an engine seizes from say lack of a nitwit to refill the oil) the carbs are still good.

.......and one last note, when you get it running, i recommend semi - synthetic oil. Not nec. bike oil, semi- synthetic car oil works pretty well. Then you won't have to worry much about oil breakdown.

good luck.

[919Hooligan]

Originally Posted by omegajim

I remember not that long ago being in a similar situation, the dealer parts were mucho expensive. Fortunately, I found a bone yard (this, before the internet) and got the parts I needed for a FRACTION of the cost.

Boneyard boneyard boneyard, just what I was thinking. As well as the net, there are a number of ads in the back of cycle world magazine for some of the bigger boneyards.

Originally Posted by omegajim

.....and one last note, when you get it running, i recommend semi - synthetic oil. Not nec. bike oil, semi- synthetic car oil works pretty well. Then you won't have to worry much about oil breakdown.

good luck.

I have to speak up on this one. Automotive oil in general, not just synthetic oil, is designed with maximum lubricity and minimum friction among moving parts. That being the case, it can result in clutch slippage, especially in a bike with a not so new clutch to begin with. I've never had this problem with regular automotive oil, but I have been in a situation where I switched to synthetic auto (from regular auto) and all of a sudden had a bike that would barely move under it's own power due to clutch slippage. Same thing with oil additives. Motorcycle oil is formulated to protect moving parts yet still allow maximum clutch plate grip.

If you want you clutch to last as long as possible, 4 out of 5 dentists recommend that you stick with motorcycle oil.

[Clint]

And four out of five motorcyclists will tell you that there's no risk of clutch slippage if you stick with 10-40 weight or heavier, none of which fall in the "energy conserving" category. My 80 lbs-ft soaked in Mobil 1 15-50 make that point nicely.

[intimid8er]

Agree with above posters.

That bike had a hell of a production run....finding used parts should be a no-brainer.

[919Hooligan]

Originally Posted by RowdyRed94

And four out of five motorcyclists will tell you that there's no risk of clutch slippage if you stick with 10-40 weight or heavier, none of which fall in the "energy conserving" category. My 80 lbs-ft soaked in Mobil 1 15-50 make that point nicely.

I've never put anything less than 10w40 in any of my bikes unless they called for it, but I know for a fact that my 1981 GPZ1100 didn't have any clutch slipping problems until the exact moment I put Mobil 1 in it. It also never recovered and I had to replace the clutch plates. A newer bike with a clutch that is in great shape will handle it just fine, sure, but he doesn't know what shape his clutch is in, and in my opinion shouldn't risk it. It is plain fact that motorcycle oil is formulated differently with the clutch and transmission being taken into consideration. Here is another account of a man who had the same problem I did, just not to the point of having to replace his.
International CBX Owners Association Moto vs Auto Oil

I personally would not run the risk of shortening my clutch life by not using motorcycle specific oil. It's different for a reason.