Painting Frame

[t mac]

I wanna paint my 01 rm125 frame but i'm not sure how to get into (what i need) thanks.

[Louis]

Wanna do it yourself or have it done? A good paint job depends on surface preparation first then paint quality (applying the paint more than the quality of the paint itself).

[t mac]

i was thinkin' of doin' it myself, what kind of paint to i need and where can i get it? thanks

[t mac]

hey, just realized your from hull, i'm right across the river in nepean!

[Louis]

A Nepean brother! Cool.

I'm no expert but any automotive paint should be good for painting a frame. As I said, preparation will either make or break the quality of the end result. If you want to have a professional and very durable finish, you might want to consider powder coating. However, you'd have to have this done. I know a good place (at least from word of mouth) in Ottawa for that.

[LayinLo]

Rough sand it with 180 grit. Then sand with 600-800 grit, maybe even wet sand it. The more sanding the better the final paint will turn out. Then go get your favorite color of Krylon Fusion from Walmart!

[stevie c]

Originally Posted by LayinLo

Rough sand it then smooth sand it with 180 grit. The more sanding the better the final paint will turn out. Then go get your favorite color of Krylon Fusion from Walmart!

If you sand it too smooth the paint won't have anything to anchor to,will it?

[LayinLo]

That last bit of sanding with the 800 grit (you can go rougher but I wouldn't get any smoother grit) will still give it enough "scuff" to adhere too.

The main thing is to get it really clean with the rougher sandpaper and finish it up with the smoother grit. Works the same for fairings too.

[Louis]

From my little experience in airbrushing/gun painting and what I read on the subject, 180 grit is extremely rough. For helmets and fairings, I'd do no less than 600 before the first coat of paint. But for a frame painted with spray paint, sure, 180 is enough.

Do some research on the net, I could be wrong.

[t mac]

Thanks. gonna look into all that.

[Hunter]

Make sure that you use a good primer first.

[LayinLo]

Louis, you are right, my friend. I got the numbers mixed up in my head.

So here's the correct run-down:
1.) Rough sand any road rash or scratches out with 180-200 grit.
2.) Use a smoother sandpaper (600-800 grit) to get it a lot smoother.
3.) If necessary use 1200 and then primer.
4.) Use your favorite rattle can brand or go rent a compressor or get some paint from a paint shop.


HTH

[t mac]

ya, i got a compressor

[timSZ]

This thread may already be dead, but since I just joined I'll go ahead and add a little in case anyone is still interested.

I spent 15 years doing custom paint work on just about anything on wheels and have learned a couple of things that are really important that others without the experience may not even think about.

One of them is to use the final sanding grit that goes along with the type of paint being used. The best thing to do is to just follow the instructions on the can if you're using an aerosol, or if you are using a product from a place that supplies the refinishing shops, get the product technical data sheets and follow it to the T - afterall nobody is really smarter than the manufacture who have chemists designing the stuff. Be sure to do a final prep before finishing with a good wax and grease remove. That's especially important if your product requires a final sanding with a really fine abrasive. Just a little oil from hands and fingers left on the sanded surface prior to finishing can either ruin the finish with what's known as "fish-eyes" or cause the finish to flake or peel later on. Finally, try to apply the finish in a dry and warm environment. Moisture can get trapped in the atomized spray between the can (or paint gun) on the way to the surface and cause either premature failing of the painted surface or problems that will be instantly obvious such as cloudy, milky, or even a dulled appearance.

I'll also add a word of caution for those using compressed air from a compressor. Even on a dry day, the air drawn into the compressor will have a certain amount of moisture in it. When the air is compressed and then sent into the tank the moisture can separate from the air and settle into the tank and then find it's way into your spray. Be sure to add a moisture trap on the line leaving your tank. Most compressors come with a regulator but few come with both a regulator and moisture/oil trap already installed.