1995 rm125?'s - Motorcycle-Journal Forums

sparkysakitas · 08-29-2005, 05:46 PM

hey newbie here i just bought a 95 rm125 took it out sun for first time
problem is bike wants to bog out around 1/4 to half throttle seem to have to feather clutch and throttle to keep rpms up
any suggestions on where to start to remedy this problem
doesnt matter if its hot or cold
ty gordon

Dave2122 · 08-29-2005, 06:34 PM

Start with the basics

Fresh Premix
New Plug
Clean the air filter
Check the compression anything under 100 and its time for a rebuild.
Clean and degunk the powervalves.

Once you do all that then start with cleaning the carb and setting the float height.
Also would be a good idea to get a shop manual for it.

sparkysakitas · 08-29-2005, 06:58 PM

first on the list is manual
then on to others ty for reply
going to do the basics this week put the fresh pre mix in it noticed little better response
ty gordon

Knoc · 08-31-2005, 08:57 PM

my guess would be reeds, 2nd guess would be the main jet. Any clue which jets in it? (Most stock is 330)

sparkysakitas · 08-31-2005, 09:56 PM

would assume stock
going to do the reeds on sat then clean the carb and adjust the floats
suz shop sugg trying colder plug also did that saw some improvement
so im going with the little things first guess its trial and error

but will get it eventually

Knoc · 09-01-2005, 09:47 PM

Worth checkin the reeds out. Make sure there flush and tight, and not lifted. If that looks good, Id go to the main jet screw. That would be my guess.

Dave2122 · 09-01-2005, 10:07 PM

I have my money on gummed up powervalves. Once they get gummed up with old unburned oil, it will impeed the valves operation. The Powervlaves should be cleaned every season.

sparkysakitas · 09-03-2005, 05:41 AM

ok i cant get my hands on a book yet and i am sort of new to to 2 strokes power valves is thatthe reed block ?
im mech inclined so getting them out and back shouldnt be a problem

Dave2122 · 09-04-2005, 11:17 AM

The powervlaves are located at the front of the cylinder above the exhaust port. The are designed to vary the size of the exaust port for better power at all RPM's.

Example:
Low rpm's the valves lower into the exhaust port making it smaller for better Low rpm power.
As you increase the throttle the valves open more and more until at wide open throttle the valves are fully open making the exhaust port flow the most gases for the best top end power.

Now if they are loaded with carbon and oil residue that will cause them not to function smoothly or to not function at all. also it will cause them to wear prematurly, and they are not cheap so I recommend cleaning them at least once every season. also run the best premix oil you can afford to prevent carbon and sludge build up.

sparkysakitas · 09-04-2005, 02:18 PM

ok thanks dave

Knoc · 09-04-2005, 10:14 PM

Check out this site for Blueprints on your engine. its helped me ALOT of times.

http://216.37.204.206/Mcmart/Partsfinder.htm

sparkysakitas · 09-11-2005, 01:35 PM

thanks knoc this will help me with my current problem

stripped the splines on my sprocket shaft

Dave2122 · 09-12-2005, 05:37 PM

Jeez...the only luck your hving is Bad Luck

sparkysakitas · 09-14-2005, 03:33 PM

you know it wouldnt be right if things didnt happen like that for me get the bike running ok then bammmmmm stripped splines

but its all good got the motor out of bike going to clean frame up and maybee paint it and if i crack the cases to repair splines then i am going to get a whole new top end also so by the time im done it will be like having a whole new bike

Dave2122 · 09-14-2005, 04:12 PM

That is the true spirit of motorcyclist. Glad to see it is alive and well in you!

sparkysakitas · 09-14-2005, 04:28 PM

yeah it wasnt there when the bike broke the bat and torch where was going to burn it lol

sparkysakitas · 09-16-2005, 02:50 PM

hey dave here's a thought i stripped my front sprocket splines
whatdo you think about have the sprocket mig welded on i cant afford to pay 600 to have work done its only a 1990 so the cost of the wrk will almost exceed the cost of bike the seals are good and the welder i am going to have do it understands about not melting the seal think it would hold ?
figure if this works and i get another 6 months or more riding out of bike i can either fix it right way then or buy new bike and keep this on for a junker

Dave2122 · 09-16-2005, 06:02 PM

If you want to do it that way, YES it will work. As long as you don't cook the seal. Over the winter months I would split the cases and replace it with a new one. Do the work yourself and save the money. It isnt that hard as long as you have the manual.

sparkysakitas · 09-16-2005, 06:29 PM

cool no winter months here florida is good like that ride all year long

figure when time for a top end i will do the bottom to

sparkysakitas · 09-23-2005, 08:22 PM

well got the sprocket migged on took the bike for test ride
and i rode the crap out of it harder then i ever have so far
bike was running great
the carb clean and power valve cleaning helped with the bogging issue

was ripping up the small jumps there seeing if i could get the sprocket to break like before not even a flinch
dave i would like to say thanks for all your input on my issues with bike
gordon

08-29-2005, 05:46 PM	#1 (permalink)
sparkysakitas Where Am I ? Joined: Aug 2005 Bike: 1990 RM125 fmf gold series pipe +more to come but motor is in pieces Location: Dade City Florida Posts: 44	1995 rm125?'s hey newbie here i just bought a 95 rm125 took it out sun for first time problem is bike wants to bog out around 1/4 to half throttle seem to have to feather clutch and throttle to keep rpms up any suggestions on where to start to remedy this problem doesnt matter if its hot or cold ty gordon

08-31-2005, 08:57 PM	#4 (permalink)
Knoc Ditch Magnet Joined: Oct 2004 Bike: 2000 Bombadier Ds650, 1989 Suzuki Rm125 Location: Central Minnesota Posts: 185	my guess would be reeds, 2nd guess would be the main jet. Any clue which jets in it? (Most stock is 330) __________________ www.AndysGraphix.com For all your Vinyl graphic needs

09-01-2005, 09:47 PM	#6 (permalink)
Knoc Ditch Magnet Joined: Oct 2004 Bike: 2000 Bombadier Ds650, 1989 Suzuki Rm125 Location: Central Minnesota Posts: 185	Worth checkin the reeds out. Make sure there flush and tight, and not lifted. If that looks good, Id go to the main jet screw. That would be my guess. __________________ www.AndysGraphix.com For all your Vinyl graphic needs

09-01-2005, 10:07 PM	#7 (permalink)
Dave2122 Sprocket Pilot Joined: Sep 2004 Bike: Which one of the 9? Location: USA Posts: 887	I have my money on gummed up powervalves. Once they get gummed up with old unburned oil, it will impeed the valves operation. The Powervlaves should be cleaned every season. Last edited by Dave2122; 09-01-2005 at 10:10 PM.

09-04-2005, 10:14 PM	#11 (permalink)
Knoc Ditch Magnet Joined: Oct 2004 Bike: 2000 Bombadier Ds650, 1989 Suzuki Rm125 Location: Central Minnesota Posts: 185	Check out this site for Blueprints on your engine. its helped me ALOT of times. http://216.37.204.206/Mcmart/Partsfinder.htm __________________ www.AndysGraphix.com For all your Vinyl graphic needs

08-29-2005, 06:34 PM	#2 (permalink)
Dave2122 Sprocket Pilot Joined: Sep 2004 Bike: Which one of the 9? Location: USA Posts: 887	Start with the basics Fresh Premix New Plug Clean the air filter Check the compression anything under 100 and its time for a rebuild. Clean and degunk the powervalves. Once you do all that then start with cleaning the carb and setting the float height. Also would be a good idea to get a shop manual for it.

08-29-2005, 06:58 PM	#3 (permalink)
sparkysakitas Where Am I ? Joined: Aug 2005 Bike: 1990 RM125 fmf gold series pipe +more to come but motor is in pieces Location: Dade City Florida Posts: 44	first on the list is manual then on to others ty for reply going to do the basics this week put the fresh pre mix in it noticed little better response ty gordon

08-31-2005, 09:56 PM	#5 (permalink)
sparkysakitas Where Am I ? Joined: Aug 2005 Bike: 1990 RM125 fmf gold series pipe +more to come but motor is in pieces Location: Dade City Florida Posts: 44	would assume stock going to do the reeds on sat then clean the carb and adjust the floats suz shop sugg trying colder plug also did that saw some improvement so im going with the little things first guess its trial and error but will get it eventually

09-03-2005, 05:41 AM	#8 (permalink)
sparkysakitas Where Am I ? Joined: Aug 2005 Bike: 1990 RM125 fmf gold series pipe +more to come but motor is in pieces Location: Dade City Florida Posts: 44	ok i cant get my hands on a book yet and i am sort of new to to 2 strokes power valves is thatthe reed block ? im mech inclined so getting them out and back shouldnt be a problem

09-04-2005, 11:17 AM	#9 (permalink)
Dave2122 Sprocket Pilot Joined: Sep 2004 Bike: Which one of the 9? Location: USA Posts: 887	The powervlaves are located at the front of the cylinder above the exhaust port. The are designed to vary the size of the exaust port for better power at all RPM's. Example: Low rpm's the valves lower into the exhaust port making it smaller for better Low rpm power. As you increase the throttle the valves open more and more until at wide open throttle the valves are fully open making the exhaust port flow the most gases for the best top end power. Now if they are loaded with carbon and oil residue that will cause them not to function smoothly or to not function at all. also it will cause them to wear prematurly, and they are not cheap so I recommend cleaning them at least once every season. also run the best premix oil you can afford to prevent carbon and sludge build up.

09-04-2005, 02:18 PM	#10 (permalink)
sparkysakitas Where Am I ? Joined: Aug 2005 Bike: 1990 RM125 fmf gold series pipe +more to come but motor is in pieces Location: Dade City Florida Posts: 44	ok thanks dave

09-11-2005, 01:35 PM	#12 (permalink)
sparkysakitas Where Am I ? Joined: Aug 2005 Bike: 1990 RM125 fmf gold series pipe +more to come but motor is in pieces Location: Dade City Florida Posts: 44	thanks knoc this will help me with my current problem stripped the splines on my sprocket shaft

09-12-2005, 05:37 PM	#13 (permalink)
Dave2122 Sprocket Pilot Joined: Sep 2004 Bike: Which one of the 9? Location: USA Posts: 887	Jeez...the only luck your hving is Bad Luck

09-14-2005, 03:33 PM	#14 (permalink)
sparkysakitas Where Am I ? Joined: Aug 2005 Bike: 1990 RM125 fmf gold series pipe +more to come but motor is in pieces Location: Dade City Florida Posts: 44	you know it wouldnt be right if things didnt happen like that for me get the bike running ok then bammmmmm stripped splines but its all good got the motor out of bike going to clean frame up and maybee paint it and if i crack the cases to repair splines then i am going to get a whole new top end also so by the time im done it will be like having a whole new bike

09-14-2005, 04:12 PM	#15 (permalink)
Dave2122 Sprocket Pilot Joined: Sep 2004 Bike: Which one of the 9? Location: USA Posts: 887	That is the true spirit of motorcyclist. Glad to see it is alive and well in you!

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09-14-2005, 04:28 PM	#16 (permalink)
sparkysakitas Where Am I ? Joined: Aug 2005 Bike: 1990 RM125 fmf gold series pipe +more to come but motor is in pieces Location: Dade City Florida Posts: 44	yeah it wasnt there when the bike broke the bat and torch where was going to burn it lol

09-16-2005, 02:50 PM	#17 (permalink)
sparkysakitas Where Am I ? Joined: Aug 2005 Bike: 1990 RM125 fmf gold series pipe +more to come but motor is in pieces Location: Dade City Florida Posts: 44	hey dave here's a thought i stripped my front sprocket splines whatdo you think about have the sprocket mig welded on i cant afford to pay 600 to have work done its only a 1990 so the cost of the wrk will almost exceed the cost of bike the seals are good and the welder i am going to have do it understands about not melting the seal think it would hold ? figure if this works and i get another 6 months or more riding out of bike i can either fix it right way then or buy new bike and keep this on for a junker

09-16-2005, 06:02 PM	#18 (permalink)
Dave2122 Sprocket Pilot Joined: Sep 2004 Bike: Which one of the 9? Location: USA Posts: 887	If you want to do it that way, YES it will work. As long as you don't cook the seal. Over the winter months I would split the cases and replace it with a new one. Do the work yourself and save the money. It isnt that hard as long as you have the manual.

09-16-2005, 06:29 PM	#19 (permalink)
sparkysakitas Where Am I ? Joined: Aug 2005 Bike: 1990 RM125 fmf gold series pipe +more to come but motor is in pieces Location: Dade City Florida Posts: 44	cool no winter months here florida is good like that ride all year long figure when time for a top end i will do the bottom to

09-23-2005, 08:22 PM	#20 (permalink)
sparkysakitas Where Am I ? Joined: Aug 2005 Bike: 1990 RM125 fmf gold series pipe +more to come but motor is in pieces Location: Dade City Florida Posts: 44	well got the sprocket migged on took the bike for test ride and i rode the crap out of it harder then i ever have so far bike was running great the carb clean and power valve cleaning helped with the bogging issue was ripping up the small jumps there seeing if i could get the sprocket to break like before not even a flinch dave i would like to say thanks for all your input on my issues with bike gordon