Ignition switch melted.

[Sgt Mike]

Never had a problem with any of the electrical system. Monday I took my bike in to the dealer to have the cluch rod return spring replaced, they found it was broken during the 7K service. I took the key in with the info. About an hour later I got a call from the service manager asking me if I had any concerns with starting the bike because when they went to bring it in it wouldn't start, in fact the entire electrical system was dead. After some diagnosis they found that the ignition switch and the wiring harness plug were melted, they're not quite sure what caused the failure. Here's an approximate cost: Ignition switch with coded key/lock cylinder $275.00, wiring harness $460.00, labor $350.00, clutch return spring $4.00, labor $45.00. Fortunately both repairs are covered under my Extended Warranty. I'm glad that I got the EW now, it just paid for itself and then some.
I'm wondering if any of you had a similar problem with your C50?

[robertc729]

Never had a problem with mine, sucks about the failure though.

[wildwolf]

If it was working fine when you dropped it off....it almost sounds like some tech screwed up and fried it....and/or they are just generating business. They get paid for warranty work as well.

[Sgt Mike]

I don't beleive that's the case. Twigg Cycles has a great service reputation and I've known the owner Mike Twigg for quite a few years, because of his character and ethics Mike wouldn't put with that kind of business approach, and this time of year they don't need to create work, they have more work than they can handle. As you know failures can and often happen at anytime. Check 'em out on line at Maryland Honda Yamaha Motorcycle ATV Dealer - Twigg Cycles - Kawasaki Suzuki Polaris Power Equipment Scooter Watercraft Utility-vehicle Sport Boat Jet Boat Snowblower Generator Tractor Pump

Originally Posted by wildwolf

If it was working fine when you dropped it off....it almost sounds like some tech screwed up and fried it....and/or they are just generating business. They get paid for warranty work as well.

[blackie1491]

The ignition and wiring harness were the areas responsible for the recalls on the 05's. There were 2 service slips issued for them. My bike was checked and found to be okay. Was yours an early production 06?

Extended warranty sure paid off in your case.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Sgt Mike

After some diagnosis they found that the ignition switch and the wiring harness plug were melted, they're not quite sure what caused the failure.

Have you added any extra lights?
There's another thread about fried ignition switches but that may be a different model ???

Memory?.....I don't remember what memory IS!

[Sgt Mike]

I did add a Suzuki light bar and wired it as per the provided instructions.

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Have you added any extra lights?
There's another thread about fried ignition switches but that may be a different model ???

Memory?.....I don't remember what memory IS!

[Sgt Mike]

I bought it in march of 06 so it propably was built in late 05 or early 06.

Originally Posted by blackie1491

The ignition and wiring harness were the areas responsible for the recalls on the 05's. There were 2 service slips issued for them. My bike was checked and found to be okay. Was yours an early production 06?

Extended warranty sure paid off in your case.

[Easy Rider]

Originally Posted by Sgt Mike

I did add a Suzuki light bar and wired it as per the provided instructions.

Did that include an aux. relay?
If not, I'd seriously consider re-wiring.
If it happens again, it's likely YOU will have to pay.

[Sgt Mike]

No, the kit didn't include a relay. I'll check into that. Do you have any info on the wiring to the relay?

Originally Posted by Easy Rider

Did that include an aux. relay?
If not, I'd seriously consider re-wiring.
If it happens again, it's likely YOU will have to pay.

[ww4cash]

Do a search on Light bar wiring diagram on suzuki sites. I found it there. If you still need it today, send me an e-mail, and I will send it. Generally ther are 4 wire. Two go to the battery, one goes to the Aux wire and the last goes to the light bar. There are 5 wires, there is a choice if you want it to make up or disconnect the light bar when it sees power on the Aux. So you only use 4 of the wires. The way it works, is, the Aux fires a electromagnetic switch that makes up the connection between the hot wire on the battery to the Light bar. So the power does not go through the ignition switch, like designed. The switch only supports enough power to send a signal to the relay, not the full 70 - 80 Watts the lights pull. So the tax on the Ignition Switch goes up slightly over not having a light bar, but not as much as the power required by the light bar, keeping the switch from heating up as much. If you pull out your key after having the light bar on for a while, and the key is hot, you are a candidate for a relay. It is much safer to put all added electronics on a relay, and in Suzuki's case, even when you add a factory light bar. If someone knows how to post a diagram, let me know, I will send it. I don't know the guy that first posted it, so I cannot give him credit, sorry.

[ww4cash]

Guys, This is a link to a diagram on how to wire your light bar to a relay, instead of letting it draw power through the ignition switch. It is over complicated. The reason is the light bar already has an off/on switch, so the wires you run are to it, and not to the lights themselves. What is important to understand is what each wire does that comes out of the relay. If you understand that, you can wire it. There are 5 lugs (or wires if you buy one with wires or a plug with wires). You need to understand what each are for, and the diagram tells you that. You only need 4 of these wires, the one labeled 87 is if you want the relay to turn something on. The one labeled 87a is if you want the relay to turn something off. So you only need one of these. Two of the wires go to your battery, one to the positive through a fuse of the same rating as the relay. I use a 30 amp relay, which I am sure someone will say is too big. If you figure that dividing the 70 wall (2 35 watt bulbs) divided by 12 volts, the amps would be 6. Again, someone may take issue with this. The other two wires are the wire that gets made up by the relay to the positive wire from the battery to the thing to be powered. The other wire is where do I get my signal to turn the relay on or off. That wire gets plugged to the positive side of the AUX wire in the headlight.

Read this entire link and you will know more than you ever wanted. I am sure the folks on this post are smarter than me. Also, the diagram on this post is more complicated than the one I can't find at the moment.

VolusiaRiders.com :: View topic - HOW TO: Wiring new accessories through a RELAY

[old codger]

Look at the date of the post you are replying to, also check the status of Sgt Mike as well.
Still this is good information, always use a relay when adding anything with a large current draw to your cycle.

Old Codger