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| | #1 (permalink) |
| Newbie Joined: Jan 2004 Location: Panama City Beach, Fl
Posts: 16
| A friend with a 1400 Intruder (like mine) with only 2000 miles has exhaust pipe discoloration (yellowish) on the left pipe. The dealer advised him that the bike has been set lean due to emission standards and the problem is unavoidable. He suggested re-jetting as a possible solution, although it would not remedy existing discoloration, it might prevent any more from occuring. My bike is still new (300 miles) and so far, no problem. How can I prevent my luscious chrome from turning yellow, and also any suggestions for removing from my friends pipe? I searched site and did not see a previous post on this. Is this common on these bikes? This bike has been out for years and I would think there is probably a "fix" for this by now. Bike is doing well and I hope to keep it looking new for years to come. Thanks for your help!! Beachbiker
__________________ Ride with Others as You Would Have Them Ride With You. |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Site Admin & Squeegee Boy ![]() Joined: Dec 1969
Bike: 2003 Volusia SE
Location: Montréal, Québec, Canada
Posts: 107
| It's just the nature of the beast, keep it well tuned and don't let it overheat or leave it idling for long periods and it should be minimal.
__________________ Yadda yadda yadda, whatever, they ain't going to listen anyway. |
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| | #4 (permalink) |
| Newbie Joined: Feb 2004 Location: Nashvegas, TN
Posts: 8
| I think if you find something that works you will be a very rich person. Ive tried about everything over the years and yet to find anything worth a crap. A lot of products will clean your pipes but they dull them at the same time. I've just kind of resolved to live with it.
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| Newbie Joined: Feb 2004 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 6
| Have you tried any of the following products? -KREEM BLUE SHIELD PIPE BLUEING PROTECTANT -DYNO-KOTE PIPE BLUEING PREVENTATIVE -CHROME-GUARD THERMAL PIPE LINING ---------------------------------------------------------------------- As for discoloration removal, I have had outstanding success with "BLUE JOB" powder on 2 Harleys with straight pipes and lots of blueing. Later, Bill
__________________ Go Navy, it truly is an adventure! |
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| | #6 (permalink) |
| In Training ![]() Joined: Jan 2004 Location: Bel Air Maryland
Posts: 115
| Chrome is acidic by nature. Acidic compuonds are subceptible to ionic compounds, and weathering. High temps can cause negative ions to adhear to the chrome faster. Static charge can cause positive ions to adhear to the chrome faster. Negetive ions cause yellowing. Positive ions cause blueing. Too rich of fuel mixture cause stitic charge to form in the pipes where moist unbuned fuel is flowing. Anytime you have moistour flowing in a pipe that is hot you gt this ionic convergence. On chrome it turns blue. By adjusting your fuel mixture you can reduce this affect. Sorry if I lost anyone.
__________________ VS800 Intuder Not the biggest bike on the street but the biggest one I have ever had. And I love it. |
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| | #7 (permalink) |
| Clunked into first gear ![]() Joined: Jan 2004 Location: dallas,tx
Posts: 221
| I lived in a compound with some yellow people and some blue people who were very acidic and leary by nature. We had one of those ionic breeze things, which came in handy whenever there was moisture flowing in one of the pipes. But, if you keep tuned, you may become a minimalist.
__________________ vol01jim |
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| | #8 (permalink) |
| Site Wrench Head ![]() | there is only one way to guarente against discoloration, it's really near impossable to do and it makes no sence to me. Simple but it didn't work for me. Don't ride it. LMAO
__________________ A truly wise man asks more questions than he answers, I think I must be retarted |
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| Newbie Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12
| Well, I've tried Blue Job etc. and after 30 minutes of riding I'm right back to where I've started. So forget about it. Here is an interesting and insightful test. Hold a sewing needle with needle-nose pliers and place the needle over a candle flame. You will see a wonderful array of colors from a white tip, to cherry red to straw and blue. (this is the essence of tempering steel). Note the colors of the needle after this test. If you choose to hold the needle in your fingers, rather than needle-nose pliers, then you will have at least a steralized needle to pop the blisters.
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| Newbie Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 19
| I have V&H slash cuts on my 98 LC1500. The original pipes started to blue a little where they came out of the cylinder. It appears that the V&H pipes have an additional layer/shield of outer pipe which keeps the blue problem under this protective cover. Probably designed that way from prior complaints. After 3 years, no sign on blue/yellow.
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| | #11 (permalink) |
| Site Admin & Squeegee Boy ![]() Joined: Dec 1969
Bike: 2003 Volusia SE
Location: Montréal, Québec, Canada
Posts: 107
| I remember seeing or reading about a product that you could coat the inside of your pipes with that would prevent bluing. Can't seem to remember exactly what it was called. Does this ring a bell with anybody?
__________________ Yadda yadda yadda, whatever, they ain't going to listen anyway. |
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| | #12 (permalink) | |
| Newbie Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24
| Quote:
I have read this term at several places and little confuse. I have 2004 Savage, which I picked up on Apr 2. I have about 750 miles on it and pipe is getting yellow color near the engine. When I picked up my bike, its idel speed was little high. I didn't realize it at first, but when I took the bike back for loude noise during shifting to 1st gear, a mechanic point it out and reduce the idel speed. I am wondering if the discoloration is due to high idel speed. I had already ridden 650 miles by that time. I am thinking high idel speed brings more fuel into a carburator at a time, causing rich fuel and pipe discoloration. Please provide any info on this matter. Deo
__________________ Deoveer | |
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| | #13 (permalink) |
| Seat Tester Joined: Jan 2004
Bike: Savage Thumper
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 77
| Deo An internal combustion engine runs on a mixture of fuel and air. The aim is to run on a perfect mixture that is a fuel to air ratio of approx. 1 to 14 bij WEIGHT. At a given throttle opening the amount of air going into the engine is fixed and the amount of fuel can be varried by the mainjet or the needle in the dilution jet. Hence you can either allow to little or too much fuel to enter the carburator and you end up with e lean or rich mixture. For more information how a carburator works check www.howstuffworks.com Regards Kropatchek
__________________ Never ask your bike to scream before her throat is good and warm. |
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| | #14 (permalink) | |
| Newbie Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 24
| Quote:
Thanks,
__________________ Deoveer | |
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| | #15 (permalink) |
| Site Admin & Squeegee Boy ![]() Joined: Dec 1969
Bike: 2003 Volusia SE
Location: Montréal, Québec, Canada
Posts: 107
| Not quite, the air fuel ration is the mix needed for one cycle of combustion, reducung idle does not alter that figure. Reducing idle reduces the amount or cycles ( rpms) but every cycle uses the same amount of fuel and air ( or there abouts ).
__________________ Yadda yadda yadda, whatever, they ain't going to listen anyway. |
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