What to buy, what to buy... - Page 3 - Motorcycle-Journal Forums

Dave Nadeau · 02-27-2007, 02:04 PM

Hey Jackalope,
Have you signed up for the Riders Safety course yet. 30 years is a long time. Even though for me, 34 years, I picked up where I left off it was a great refresher. And fun. Why dent up your new machine when you can drop theirs.

Rickster · 02-27-2007, 02:10 PM

There is a few different ways to lower the back of a bike.

The first is to either reposition, or shorten up the shocks. This will result in less travel for the rear wheel, but doesnt effect the ground clearance. This is the method you need to use if your bike has two shocks, one on either side of the rear wheel.

Another method is to put on longer "dog bones" for some bikes with under frame mounted shocks. With this method, you still have the same amount of wheel travel, but less ground clearance. There is also more leverage on the shock, so you will need to increase the spring pre-load.

The last method is also for bikes that have under frame mounted shocks, but don't have a linkage system. On these bikes the only thing you can do, is put on shorter travel shocks. Again, as in the first method, you don't loose ground clearance, but you do lose wheel travel.

Any bike with shocks on it can be lowered, some times, as with the longer "dog bones" it's pretty cheep, about $35, if you don't have to replace the stock springs. Other times you have to buy new, aftermarket shocks, and that can cost two, to three hundred dollars. In all cases, you lowed the seat height, some times at a cost of ground clearance, some times at a cost of wheel travel.

Any time you lower the back , and not the front of a bike, you also change the steering geometry. The bike will steer slightly slower. Usually not a big deal, but I always try to lower the front, the same amount as the back. On a lot of bikes you can just slip the triple clamps down a little, on the forks. This will not decrease your travel. Don't go so far, as to alow your tire to hit something on the bike.

If that's not possible, you have to have your forks rebuilt, with different length internal spacers. With shipping, this can also run you two, to three hundred dollars. This will decrease your travel.

Anyway Jackalope, I hope this helps. As you can see, this could open up your options a lot more, as to how many bikes will fit your needs. Do a Google search for suspension lowering, there's a ton of info on this out there.

kstateskier · 02-27-2007, 04:49 PM

I looked at the C50 and the one thing I could not get over was the radiator mounted behind the front forks right in plane view. I know its a liquid cooled engine and requires this sort of thing, Honda's have it too... Just personal preference I suppse but everytime I thought I'd want the Shadow or the C50 I'd see a VStar and immediately remember why I wanted one of those instead!

Just a thought... We keep talking about power, etc... but look is important too...

wildwolf · 02-28-2007, 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jackalope

That would be a great solution Sgt. Mike, if any of the dealers near me offered a test ride. All of them tell me that they don't have bikes to test ride. Seems that they want you to buy one before you'll find out if it's what you want or not. Bummer.

Be a bit of a drive for you, but Sloan's Motorcycles (Sloans Motorcycle&ampATV Supercenter - Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Polaris, Victory, United Motors, Bushtech, Champion, Motortrike) offers demo rides most Saturdays in better weather. You get there early enough, you can sign up to ride the bike that interests you the most. They've also let me test ride the M109 and encouraged me to take it up I-840 to see how it performed.

You'll just need to have a valid motorcycle endorsed license and proof of insurance (on something..doesn't have to be a bike).

For touring, you'd probably like the C50T more...as it has bags & shield already on it. You might "feel" slightly faster/quicker on the M50, though.

I sat on the new 1300 Vstar at a dealer a couple weeks ago. While the write-ups look great, the bike 'felt' horrible to my riding style. Felt like the 1300 VTX...like my arms were thrown wide and would make me very nervous doing any canyon carving. I've not sat on the C50 in a while to compare, but have the M50...and the M50 felt much better than the 1300 Vstar.

Let us know what you do pick...(and try used to save $) and show us some pics.

Jackalope · 03-04-2007, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wildwolf

Be a bit of a drive for you, but Sloan's Motorcycles (Sloans Motorcycle&ampATV Supercenter - Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Polaris, Victory, United Motors, Bushtech, Champion, Motortrike) offers demo rides most Saturdays in better weather. You get there early enough, you can sign up to ride the bike that interests you the most. They've also let me test ride the M109 and encouraged me to take it up I-840 to see how it performed.

You'll just need to have a valid motorcycle endorsed license and proof of insurance (on something..doesn't have to be a bike).

Now that is some information I can really use. It'll be worth it to drive up there to find out what it really rides like before I buy. Wonder how the wife will feel about driving the Vette back by herself?

wildwolf · 03-07-2007, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jackalope

Now that is some information I can really use. It'll be worth it to drive up there to find out what it really rides like before I buy. Wonder how the wife will feel about driving the Vette back by herself?

If that's an issue, just swing by & pick me up. I'll have no problem driving it back by myself.

For what it's worth though, none of the dealers local to me yet (Huntsville, AL area now) have been willing to let my wife test ride a new bike.

Thus, when we do purchase a new M109R, I'll be making the drive to Sloan's for that...

dcstrng · 03-09-2007, 07:03 AM

Sounds like you’ve gotten a wide variety of reasonable guidance... clearly, almost anything you buy will be better than you’ve got now... and any modern bike you get (including Sportsters – probably the most maligned bike on the planet) will be far better than the bikes you remember. Don’t worry too much about seats or saddle height, both are changeable and changed regularly... Some bikes fit some riders some of the time, but no bike fits all (whether Wing, Kawasusahooki, Hardley-David or whatever...), indeed few fit most riders once the mileage begins to accumulate -- assuming it does. Forget the bikin' theory... Find a dealer you like, leave your checkbook at home and find the bike you think like, then walk away and take a weekend MSF course or equivalent – then go back to your dealer checkbook in hand, and look again... Few bikes for returning riders survive the first year without being dropped somewhere... Tupperware – ouch, crash-bars, Hmmmm... New – ouch, low-mileage garage-queens (love those real riders with high-mileage trailers) Hmmm... plastic, ouch, steel, Hmmmm...

BIKER44 · 04-04-2007, 09:27 AM

You Are Right About The Sportsters, The Dynas Are Ok And You Can Find Used Ones For Under $10k, But A C50?? Why Are There So Many Out There For Sale? I Think People Buy Them For The Low Price And Find Out They Are Low Powered.

texrider · 04-04-2007, 09:43 AM

I'd not consider a C50 or M50 underpowered. I had a blast with my M50's eager to rev 805 cc's! Handling was responsive, and it topped out about 110 actual. The M50 went two up through the desert and mountains without complaint, and drew admiring compliments everywhere.

AzC50 · 05-27-2007, 11:27 PM

I have an 06 C50Black- it is a great bike, If I could have gotten a C50T without the studs I would. I read somewhere that it is geared a little higher in 5th for the highway.

I added a Switchblade screen, and light bar. Best purchase ever. I can do eighty before the dotted lines start to look solid. I also added a rack in place of the rear pillion seat. Looks Awesome. I have the easy brackets for the saddlebags (still looking for an affordable hard bag) and the studs are perfect for hooking the bungies to.

BTW, with the windsheild and lightbar, I can park next to our Harley Road Kings at the PD and only the motors guys know its not one of the patrol bikes.

Only two complaints, 1. a cricket chirp in the headlight area, 2. not quite loud enough to sound like the police patrol bikes.

Lots of power for the mountains in AZ, even two up and in the heat.

DR-Z125L · 05-28-2007, 04:39 AM

jackalope..you talked about the bikes from yesteryear....why not get one from yesteryear....check ebay and stuff

02-27-2007, 02:04 PM	#41 (permalink)
Dave Nadeau TurtleWax Taster Joined: Mar 2006 Bike: 08 ElectraGlide ( IN Vivid Black)!!!!!!!!!! Location: Bridgewater, Ma Posts: 579	Hey Jackalope, Have you signed up for the Riders Safety course yet. 30 years is a long time. Even though for me, 34 years, I picked up where I left off it was a great refresher. And fun. Why dent up your new machine when you can drop theirs. __________________ The faster I go the behinder I get..... US Navy 68-72 Amphibs, Little Creek, Va. "The Old Man"

02-27-2007, 02:10 PM	#42 (permalink)
Rickster Bridal Boutique Manager Joined: Oct 2005 Location: St Paul Mn Posts: 2,914	There is a few different ways to lower the back of a bike. The first is to either reposition, or shorten up the shocks. This will result in less travel for the rear wheel, but doesnt effect the ground clearance. This is the method you need to use if your bike has two shocks, one on either side of the rear wheel. Another method is to put on longer "dog bones" for some bikes with under frame mounted shocks. With this method, you still have the same amount of wheel travel, but less ground clearance. There is also more leverage on the shock, so you will need to increase the spring pre-load. The last method is also for bikes that have under frame mounted shocks, but don't have a linkage system. On these bikes the only thing you can do, is put on shorter travel shocks. Again, as in the first method, you don't loose ground clearance, but you do lose wheel travel. Any bike with shocks on it can be lowered, some times, as with the longer "dog bones" it's pretty cheep, about $35, if you don't have to replace the stock springs. Other times you have to buy new, aftermarket shocks, and that can cost two, to three hundred dollars. In all cases, you lowed the seat height, some times at a cost of ground clearance, some times at a cost of wheel travel. Any time you lower the back , and not the front of a bike, you also change the steering geometry. The bike will steer slightly slower. Usually not a big deal, but I always try to lower the front, the same amount as the back. On a lot of bikes you can just slip the triple clamps down a little, on the forks. This will not decrease your travel. Don't go so far, as to alow your tire to hit something on the bike. If that's not possible, you have to have your forks rebuilt, with different length internal spacers. With shipping, this can also run you two, to three hundred dollars. This will decrease your travel. Anyway Jackalope, I hope this helps. As you can see, this could open up your options a lot more, as to how many bikes will fit your needs. Do a Google search for suspension lowering, there's a ton of info on this out there. __________________ Ever notice that the person telling you to calm down, is the same one that got you worked up in the first place. 2008 1250 Bandit ABS 2008 DR 650 2006 HD Road King 2005 DL1000 V Strom (sold) 2004 Twin Peaks 700 2003 KTM 525 EX/C (for sale) 2005 Santa Cruz Heckler Last edited by Rickster; 02-27-2007 at 02:14 PM.

02-27-2007, 04:49 PM	#43 (permalink)
kstateskier In Training Joined: Feb 2007 Bike: 2006 Yamaha V Star Classic Silverado Location: Springfield, Missouri Posts: 115	I looked at the C50 and the one thing I could not get over was the radiator mounted behind the front forks right in plane view. I know its a liquid cooled engine and requires this sort of thing, Honda's have it too... Just personal preference I suppse but everytime I thought I'd want the Shadow or the C50 I'd see a VStar and immediately remember why I wanted one of those instead! Just a thought... We keep talking about power, etc... but look is important too... __________________ KstateSkier - Springfield, MO - 2006 Yamaha VStar 650

03-09-2007, 07:03 AM	#47 (permalink)
dcstrng Ditch Magnet Joined: Jun 2006 Bike: `99 Nomad`96 FLHT Location: Colonial Beach, VA Posts: 181	Sounds like you’ve gotten a wide variety of reasonable guidance... clearly, almost anything you buy will be better than you’ve got now... and any modern bike you get (including Sportsters – probably the most maligned bike on the planet) will be far better than the bikes you remember. Don’t worry too much about seats or saddle height, both are changeable and changed regularly... Some bikes fit some riders some of the time, but no bike fits all (whether Wing, Kawasusahooki, Hardley-David or whatever...), indeed few fit most riders once the mileage begins to accumulate -- assuming it does. Forget the bikin' theory... Find a dealer you like, leave your checkbook at home and find the bike you think like, then walk away and take a weekend MSF course or equivalent – then go back to your dealer checkbook in hand, and look again... Few bikes for returning riders survive the first year without being dropped somewhere... Tupperware – ouch, crash-bars, Hmmmm... New – ouch, low-mileage garage-queens (love those real riders with high-mileage trailers) Hmmm... plastic, ouch, steel, Hmmmm... __________________ Larry VROC -- IBA Milwaukee & Metric

04-04-2007, 09:43 AM	#49 (permalink)
texrider Sprocket Pilot Joined: Mar 2006 Bike: '04 Vulcan 2000, '05 VTX1800 Location: Arlington, Texas Posts: 855	I'd not consider a C50 or M50 underpowered. I had a blast with my M50's eager to rev 805 cc's! Handling was responsive, and it topped out about 110 actual. The M50 went two up through the desert and mountains without complaint, and drew admiring compliments everywhere. __________________ "Sprocket to me, baby!"

04-04-2007, 09:27 AM	#48 (permalink)
BIKER44 Newbie Joined: Mar 2007 Bike: 2004 SUZUKI INTRUDER 1500 Location: FULTON, N.Y. Posts: 15	You Are Right About The Sportsters, The Dynas Are Ok And You Can Find Used Ones For Under $10k, But A C50?? Why Are There So Many Out There For Sale? I Think People Buy Them For The Low Price And Find Out They Are Low Powered.

05-27-2007, 11:27 PM	#50 (permalink)
AzC50 Newbie Joined: May 2007 Bike: Suzuki C50 Location: AZ Posts: 2	I have an 06 C50Black- it is a great bike, If I could have gotten a C50T without the studs I would. I read somewhere that it is geared a little higher in 5th for the highway. I added a Switchblade screen, and light bar. Best purchase ever. I can do eighty before the dotted lines start to look solid. I also added a rack in place of the rear pillion seat. Looks Awesome. I have the easy brackets for the saddlebags (still looking for an affordable hard bag) and the studs are perfect for hooking the bungies to. BTW, with the windsheild and lightbar, I can park next to our Harley Road Kings at the PD and only the motors guys know its not one of the patrol bikes. Only two complaints, 1. a cricket chirp in the headlight area, 2. not quite loud enough to sound like the police patrol bikes. Lots of power for the mountains in AZ, even two up and in the heat.

05-28-2007, 04:39 AM	#51 (permalink)
DR-Z125L Special/Abusive Title Joined: Apr 2007 Posts: 1,364	jackalope..you talked about the bikes from yesteryear....why not get one from yesteryear....check ebay and stuff

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