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| Cruisers Lots of chrome and an open road. Talk about it here! |
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| | #21 (permalink) | |
| Sprocket Pilot ![]() Join Date: Nov 2005
Bike: 2006 C50 Silver and Gray
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 851
| Quote:
I have one of those wife tools too. Comes in handy when changing the oil and gear oil. I use mine to keep the bike staight when putting in the oil. I'm getting my bags and sissy bar in on Tuesday. Sounds like I will have to get the wife out the tool box again.
__________________ 2006 C50 Silver and gray, Cobra Tall Sissy Bar, K&N Air filter, Suzuki bags, Custom Driver's Back Rest, Memphis Fats 19" windshield with lowers, added a 2nd horn, Power Commander PC3 USB, and Cobra Freeway bars. Mitch | |
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| | #22 (permalink) | |
| Fourth gear and illegal ![]() Join Date: Oct 2005
Bike: 05 Red M50
Location: Iowa, riding in the Rain!
Posts: 782
| Quote:
Cajun: wife's are a great help when they want to go riding and your bike is holding up the show.
__________________ . "Grow up, what a waste of a good time, if Peter Pan can do it so can we............... " 05 Red M50 (mine) 97 Yellow Honda Rebel (her's) | |
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| | #23 (permalink) |
| In Training ![]() Join Date: Jun 2006
Bike: Kawasaki Voyager
Location: Tampa FL
Posts: 104
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Has anyone ever tried to replace the bolts with studs? While I have never had my saddle bags off, it sounds like the nut is permanently attached to the fender (so there's no chance of simply reversing the bolt so the threaded end winds up inside the saddlebag). For those who have done this assembly: would it be possible to replace the bolts with studs -- that is, bolts threaded on both ends? Then you would have a threaded end inside the saddlebag, and saddlebag removal would only require removing the nuts, taking off the saddlebag, and then replacing the nuts (and perhaps some chrome end covers). Would this be do-able?
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| | #24 (permalink) |
| Fifth gear streak ![]() Join Date: May 2005
Bike: M50
Location: SE Missouri
Posts: 1,375
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Oh it'd definately be doable. The biggest concern though would be bag strength. Without a bracket (like Ghost or EZ) on a soft bag, you'd have to put a plate or board, etc inside the bag. Without it, between the wind and weight of stuff in the bag, I'd give it less than a week to rip off.
__________________ I ate Chinese last night..........should of seen her struggle when i put her in the van. Доверя́й, но проверя́й. |
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| | #25 (permalink) | ||||
| U.B's LoveChild ![]() Join Date: Sep 2005
Bike: '06 HD Road King with sum stuff on it
Location: Knoxville, TN
Posts: 1,292
| Quote:
The reason I don’t use the stud idea for the backrest is that you can’t get the brackets over the studs, especially the rear ones. I have it naked (nothing but the drivers seat) right now with some bolts holding everything.
__________________
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| | #26 (permalink) |
| In Training ![]() Join Date: Jun 2006
Bike: Kawasaki Voyager
Location: Tampa FL
Posts: 104
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Jerryzuki, That sounds like what I was trying to describe. I had imagined a setup where the backrest stays on, but that allows the saddlebags to pull straight off once the nuts were off. I'm assuming you can get allthread stock at hardware stores, etc., and in metric (do you know the thread size and pitch for those?). Please let us see some pics when you're done and let us know how it works. |
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| | #27 (permalink) |
| Sit speling cheker ![]() Join Date: Jun 2006
Bike: Suzuki C90T
Location: Chandler Arizona
Posts: 1,868
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One thing you might want to do when you put the saddle bags on is to buy or make the easy off saddlebag kit at moccs place. http://www.moccsplace.com/images/bagkit/easyoff.htm That way you can remove the saddlebags with a simple wing nut when you need to clean your rear wheel, check the air, drain the final gear oil. I'm going to be putting that on mine in the near future. He'll sell you all the parts for 25 bucks or you can go to the hardware store and for about 5 bucks, get everything you need to do it yourself (he tells you how)
__________________ -------------------------------------------------- I don't care if it's the unholy four, John Wayne and Dorothy Lamour I just don't wanna talk to him now...... |
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| | #28 (permalink) |
| Newbie Join Date: Dec 2008
Bike: Suzuki Boulevard C50T
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2
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Ok i have read all the comments on putting them on, how do i take them off. And not have the bolts sticking out inside of the fender. Is there a certain way that i should do this to make sure that i get it right the first time. Because unlike the other great C50T owners i will by all mean shoot the dang thing if i can't get it right the first time.
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| | #29 (permalink) |
| Newbie Join Date: Jun 2009
Bike: 2006 M50
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 6
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Crap, I wish I read this thread before removing my saddle holders from my newly purchased (used) bike. I messed with one bolt for about 30minutes (the one closer to the seat) and still no luck. I will have to dedicate some more time to this damn bolt. Thanks for the advices.. atleast I know that the thing is not stripped.
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| | #30 (permalink) | |
| Forensic Bug Splatter Analyst ![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Bike: '07 C90T, '76 MT250, smashed up '91 GSX1100g
Location: St. Cloud, MN 3rd house NW of the Depot
Posts: 4,152
| Quote:
__________________ Sam 3/7/09 Rest in peace my good friend. | |
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| | #31 (permalink) |
| Newbie Join Date: Jun 2008
Bike: VL800TK8, '78 GL1000
Location: Midwest
Posts: 6
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Just noticed this same thing myself today and can't help but chime in to this 3 year old thread... After discovering it was difficult to replace the bolts, I got eye-level with it and peered through the hole. Saw I needed to push the fender up a bit too, and the bolts went right in. Maybe shining a light through would help if it's too hard to see... |
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