S50 squealing front brakes

[Kehau D.]

Anyone else having a problem with this? I've read a few reviews from various websites and it seems to be a problem with many. But I want to know how to fix it!! Hubby seems to think it may just be Suzuki's brake pads and that perhaps we should take it in and haven them change the brake pads to something non-Suzuki. Advice please.

[ChicsterMG]

Yeah, I get the squealing on the C50 fronts too. I think this may have been brought up once or twice before. Seems to be in the 400 to 900 mile range.
It has decreased considerably since it started.

[Kehau D.]

Originally Posted by ChicsterMG

Yeah, I get the squealing on the C50 fronts too. I think this may have been brought up once or twice before. Seems to be in the 400 to 900 mile range.
It has decreased considerably since it started.

I'm at almost 3K miles and it seems to be getting considerably worst...ugh. It's been doing it since I first got it almost 6 months ago, they even filed/shaved the brakes a bit at the 600 mile maintenance and that didn't help any. I'm starting to get really annoyed with it.

[simplegame]

It seems like the brake noise has gotten worse with the cold weather starting.
My S50 is really cold blooded now. It takes twice as long for it to warm up so it doesn't hesitate while leaving a stop light. And now the brake noise is more noticable. It might be that a new set of pads from a company other than Suzuki might fix the problem. I have been told that the pads are easy to change.? I doubt if they cost too much. Might be worth a try.
A post suggested that we don't use the front brake enough and the pads are glazed. I have been using the front brake a little more for about a week and it did not seem to have any effect.

[stp1971]

My 1500LC's rear brake pads squeal also upon stopping. Alot of the brake squeal you hear on cars and vehicles (bikes included) are from the higher amounts of carbon and metallics used to increase durability and extend the lifespan of the pads and shoes.

On days of the past the brake shoes and pads used asbestos in them. What that was for was it helped to reduce the heat buildup while still allowing the pads to transfer the heat across the caliper, backing plates, etc. away from the rotor or drum to help reduce brake fade. Brake fade is where the brakes get so hot that they can no longer maintain their friction capabilities,, thus over heating and brakes go away. Another serious problem with too much heat in braking systems is that if you do not change your brake fluid regularly then it may absorb moisture. Brake fluid is Hydroscopic (it is like a sponge). When it absorbs moisture it builds up in the brake system and when too much heat is built up the moisture basically boils in the lines causing brake pressure loss.

The asbestos that they used to use worked fairly well in preventing alot of braking problems and helped to maintain the integrity of the brakes,,BUT,,, as we all know asbestos is hazardous. It causes cancer in the lungs and the people working around it were severly prone to getting lung cancer. That is one of the reasons why you could still find the original drums and rotors of the cars from the fifties, sixties, and the seventies still on them and serviceable. This brake burning is the smell you smell coming off of a hill or a mountain when you have been riding your brakes. You can also smell it when following a tractor trailer and they have to ride their brakes.

What the automotive industry started doing was phasing out the asbestos and using metallic fibers instead. The metallic fibers helped the integrity of the pads to stay together and to help with friction,, but they also accelerate the wear of the rotors and drums also. High metallic pads and shoes rapidly chew up rotors and drums. They also can have excessivley high heat build up causing warped rotors and drums. The pads last longer,, but the higher dollar items do not. That is why you hear alot more today about the need to constantly turn down the rotors and drums and there is so much more warpage that you have to turn them even more. Turning them even more takes away metal and eventually you have to replace the drum or rotor.

The next thing they went to was carbon. The carbon is a high durability material as well. Unfortunately they do not transfer the heat away from the braking surface very
quickly. In fact they are alot more resistant to wearing down but they do build alot of heat. Thus more warpage and reduced braking grip. They happy medium is finding a carbon metallic pad that will allow for a longer lifespan but will also not chew the rotors and drums as quickly.

Personally myself I use just plain semi-metallic pads. They wear quicker but they stop good as well. I would rather change the pads more often that the rotors and drums.

What is probably happening is that your braking surface has been glazed over by the heat build up of the pads. What can be done???? I don't know if the rotors/drums can be turned or not to break the glaze off. New pads will help but if the rotors are severly glazed then it won't be long before the new pads will be also. That is why you ALWAYS turn rotors and drums when installing new pads or shoes.

I would check with the dealership and see if there is a procedure for turning the rotors or do they have a way to break the glaze off and then put new pads on.

One note though,, when you install new pads you have to properly break them in just like a tire or a new bike. Improper break in will result in glazed over pads/shoes and the rotors/drums. The pads/shoes have to be seasoned. Light braking,, not riding them, and no sudden stops should be the way to ride them for the first 200 miles,, some say 100 miles,, but I have always had better luck with 200 miles.

I have gone 8000 miles with my bike and just in the last 1000 miles the rear pads have started to squeal.

Oh yeah,, the squeal could also be worn out pads,, but that squeal is a higher pitched squeal and it usually is a grinding squeal also. If you still have material on the pads then it is probably just glaze.

[tlwisner]

I don't know how the pads are on S50, but S40s and GZ250s have really crappy pads from the factory - they last about 4000 miles. I haven't seen this on my C50, 8500 miles and the front brakes are OK - although I still plan on changing to some EBC organic pads and a stainless steel line.

[oldgeezer]

Our Suzuki house carries ECM brand pads which are far superior to the OEM pads.

[Everett Keith]

I spray my rotors and pads down with contact cleaner every 500 mile or so to stop the build up of dust. NO NOISE

[neighborscomplaint]

I had a VS1400 and pulled the front pads every 250 miles. Cleaned 'em wiuth barke cleaner and popped 'em back in. Good for 250 miles.

[ChicsterMG]

Sean, you ever think writing a book?

I was going to haze you for the long post (again), but it was actually interesting.
Good info. Where do you get this stuff?

[Sam Atsu]

I asked this question on the 18th. Here is the link
http://www.suzuki-bikes.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=10043

[Mavman]

+1 Sam.....The multiple threads concerning the same subject are becoming an issue.

http://www.suzuki-bikes.com/forum/sh...?t=9348&page=2

Read post #25 please.

[stp1971]

Originally Posted by ChicsterMG

Sean, you ever think writing a book?
Yes I have,, gonna be called "You Ain't Gonna Believe This Sh*t."
I was going to haze you for the long post (again), but it was actually interesting.
Good info. Where do you get this stuff?

I have an ASE Rating in Parts (P2). Spent years working in the Automotive industry selling parts, painting vehicles, working on them, and went to any school I could suck up pertaining to products. Alot of it came from manufacturers who sent reps around to teach about their products as well as the industry.

[Kehau D.]

Originally Posted by stp1971

I have an ASE Rating in Parts (P2). Spent years working in the Automotive industry selling parts, painting vehicles, working on them, and went to any school I could suck up pertaining to products. Alot of it came from manufacturers who sent reps around to teach about their products as well as the industry.

Sean, why couldn't you post that the first time. Perhaps then I wouldn't have felt to ask again and apparently upset a couple of people.

[stp1971]

Originally Posted by Kehau D.

Sean, why couldn't you post that the first time. Perhaps then I wouldn't have felt to ask again and apparently upset a couple of people.

Sometimes I don't see all the threads on here. If I had seen that first thread I would've posted that response. As far as the repost topic Kehau you are still learning as ALOT of us are. Therefore I am not that bothered about someone who gets on here and asks a question for the second time. I always try to use the search function when I can. I have even tried using the search function to locate topics that I KNOW I have posted about to see if I can pull it up that way. Doesn't always work.

Not complaining about the search function,, I think it is a great function but it is not always able to find the responses you are looking for. Plus if you do not word it correct or do not know what the wording is you may not be able to find the answers. Finding out answers is part of the reason MOST people enjoy this site plus the fact that they are helped with their questions.

So it may be frustrating to some at times that there is a repost,, but instead of slapping their wee wee how about helping that person,, remind them of the search function,, maybe post the link to that thread,, pm them or email them what the answer is versus slamming them in public,, and do what people expect from this site which is be nice, respectful, and helpful.

If memory is an issue then couldn't the duplicate thread be deleted once the answer is given??? Or maybe combine the two threads as I have seen several times before????

Kehau I am glad you want to learn more about your bike. I am glad you are here and if you have any questions feel free to email me or pm me and if I do not know the answer maybe I might be able to find it for you.

[Mavman]

Originally Posted by Kehau D.

Sean, why couldn't you post that the first time. Perhaps then I wouldn't have felt to ask again and apparently upset a couple of people.

And I'll apologize in public.....I'm Sorry...seriously.

You didn't upset me Kehau and I certainly didn't mean to upset you, but rather than repeat what Rowdy said in a pm-(which I realize now I should have done)...I just wanted to direct you to his post to get a better understanding of the problem-I did say please, I myself will use better judgement the next time.

again.....sorry.

[Kehau D.]

Originally Posted by Mavman

And I'll apologize in public.....I'm Sorry...seriously.

You didn't upset me Kehau and I certainly didn't mean to upset you, but rather than repeat what Rowdy said in a pm-(which I realize now I should have done)...I just wanted to direct you to his post to get a better understanding of the problem-I did say please, I myself will use better judgement the next time.

again.....sorry.

Nah nah nah...figured the wink would've shown I was kidding. But kidding aside, I can understand some's frustration at redundancy. But look at the other thread and look at the thread I posted. Yeah, same topic but as you can see, it went a different direction. The answers I got were much more to the point of the problem whereas the other thread, it was veering off to a 6th degree of separation. I've learned over the years of posting on forums that a reposting of the topic is sometimes needed to keep it on topic. Redundant...yes but when a thread veers off and there's more than 2 posters involved, it doesn't always get back on track.

[ChicsterMG]

Originally Posted by Kehau D.

whereas the other thread, it was veering off to a 6th degree of separation. I've learned over the years of posting on forums that a reposting of the topic is sometimes needed to keep it on topic. Redundant...yes but when a thread veers off and there's more than 2 posters involved, it doesn't always get back on track.

Hmmm....I think I just read a few current threads fitting this discription.

You GO!

[Ziggnutt]

Hello there. This is my first post and I'm looking forward to visiting with all the motor heads out there. Happy cycling.

Ziggnutt.

[DrBob]

Intruder 800s/ S50s are notorious for front brake squeal- we call it the 'Intruder mating call.' Swap to aftermarket pads (I use EBC non-sintered for quiet operation, or EBC HH-sintered for max braking power with a little noise) when your stockers wear out, use some brake pad glue on the back of the pads, and put a small drop of high-temp brake grease on the pins that the pads slide back and forth on. They will be fine for the next 10,000 miles or so.