[timSZ]

This thread may already be dead, but since I just joined I'll go ahead and add a little in case anyone is still interested.

I spent 15 years doing custom paint work on just about anything on wheels and have learned a couple of things that are really important that others without the experience may not even think about.

One of them is to use the final sanding grit that goes along with the type of paint being used. The best thing to do is to just follow the instructions on the can if you're using an aerosol, or if you are using a product from a place that supplies the refinishing shops, get the product technical data sheets and follow it to the T - afterall nobody is really smarter than the manufacture who have chemists designing the stuff. Be sure to do a final prep before finishing with a good wax and grease remove. That's especially important if your product requires a final sanding with a really fine abrasive. Just a little oil from hands and fingers left on the sanded surface prior to finishing can either ruin the finish with what's known as "fish-eyes" or cause the finish to flake or peel later on. Finally, try to apply the finish in a dry and warm environment. Moisture can get trapped in the atomized spray between the can (or paint gun) on the way to the surface and cause either premature failing of the painted surface or problems that will be instantly obvious such as cloudy, milky, or even a dulled appearance.

I'll also add a word of caution for those using compressed air from a compressor. Even on a dry day, the air drawn into the compressor will have a certain amount of moisture in it. When the air is compressed and then sent into the tank the moisture can separate from the air and settle into the tank and then find it's way into your spray. Be sure to add a moisture trap on the line leaving your tank. Most compressors come with a regulator but few come with both a regulator and moisture/oil trap already installed.