Motorcycle-Journal Forums - View Single Post - GSX600 Tweaks, Improvements and General Suggestions

**87gsxrnut** · 02-23-2005, 10:06 PM

1. Rebuild your forks. While you are at it, get some different springs in there and set it up for your weight and riding style. Check for pitting and rust near the area where the slider enters the fork seal. Your bike is new enough it most likely doesn't have pitting and rust, but I have been surprised over the years at what I have found. While the forks are out, you might as well pull the triples out and regrease the bearings too.

2. Ditch that weak-*** stock shock and get an aftermarket fully-adjustable unit if it doesn't have one already. If it does have one, check the spring rate and get a new spring if the rate is too soft or too stiff for the weight of the bike and your weight/riding style etc. Also have it recharged w/nitrogen and new oil put in it.

3. Bleed all of your brake lines w/new DOT 4 fluid. Check brake pad wear indicators while you are at it. If they are really close to, or beyond the indicators, replace them. Check your lines for any deep gouges or other nicks, chips out of the rubber etc. If anything looks real suspicious, replace them w/steel braided lines. Inspect the rotors as well.

4. Pull your rear wheel off. Check the bearings. Do the same with the front. If the bearings are out of whack (not unusual for the rear) then put a new set in. If they are ok, regrease the non-sealed bearing(s) and reinstall.

5. Inspect the chain. Check for binding, excessive wear, worn out or missing O/X-rings. If it is real bad, replace the chain along with BOTH sprockets.

6. (This really should be #1) Check your tires. Not only to see if there is enough tread, uneven wear etc., but the date codes on the sides. If the date codes are more than two years old, I would replace them. Make sure you use some good STEEL valve stem covers. Not that lighted squidly BS.

7. Go through every bolt on that bike to ensure that they are torqued down correctly. Check the header bolts too.

8. Check your valves and do a valve adjustment if necessary. Also check the cam chain, to make sure that the chain isn't becoming too loose. These are notorious for having the cam-chain tensioners become weak in short order.

9. While you have the valve cover off, check the cams for abnormal wear as well.

10. Check, lube and adjust your throttle/clutch cables.

11. Synchronize your carbs. Install a fuel filter if it doesn't already have one. Use a METAL filter, not a plastic one.

12. Take notes and mark down the mileage.

BONUS: Check for leaks. Always check for leaks.

Now worry about how your bike looks.

- Nut

FYI: I don't think that neon lights have any practical safety value.

02-23-2005, 10:06 PM	#6 (permalink)
87gsxrnut Ho Dog Joined: Dec 2003 Bike: 867-5309 Location: Terror Lake Posts: 4,224	1. Rebuild your forks. While you are at it, get some different springs in there and set it up for your weight and riding style. Check for pitting and rust near the area where the slider enters the fork seal. Your bike is new enough it most likely doesn't have pitting and rust, but I have been surprised over the years at what I have found. While the forks are out, you might as well pull the triples out and regrease the bearings too. 2. Ditch that weak-*** stock shock and get an aftermarket fully-adjustable unit if it doesn't have one already. If it does have one, check the spring rate and get a new spring if the rate is too soft or too stiff for the weight of the bike and your weight/riding style etc. Also have it recharged w/nitrogen and new oil put in it. 3. Bleed all of your brake lines w/new DOT 4 fluid. Check brake pad wear indicators while you are at it. If they are really close to, or beyond the indicators, replace them. Check your lines for any deep gouges or other nicks, chips out of the rubber etc. If anything looks real suspicious, replace them w/steel braided lines. Inspect the rotors as well. 4. Pull your rear wheel off. Check the bearings. Do the same with the front. If the bearings are out of whack (not unusual for the rear) then put a new set in. If they are ok, regrease the non-sealed bearing(s) and reinstall. 5. Inspect the chain. Check for binding, excessive wear, worn out or missing O/X-rings. If it is real bad, replace the chain along with BOTH sprockets. 6. (This really should be #1) Check your tires. Not only to see if there is enough tread, uneven wear etc., but the date codes on the sides. If the date codes are more than two years old, I would replace them. Make sure you use some good STEEL valve stem covers. Not that lighted squidly BS. 7. Go through every bolt on that bike to ensure that they are torqued down correctly. Check the header bolts too. 8. Check your valves and do a valve adjustment if necessary. Also check the cam chain, to make sure that the chain isn't becoming too loose. These are notorious for having the cam-chain tensioners become weak in short order. 9. While you have the valve cover off, check the cams for abnormal wear as well. 10. Check, lube and adjust your throttle/clutch cables. 11. Synchronize your carbs. Install a fuel filter if it doesn't already have one. Use a METAL filter, not a plastic one. 12. Take notes and mark down the mileage. BONUS: Check for leaks. Always check for leaks. Now worry about how your bike looks. - Nut FYI: I don't think that neon lights have any practical safety value. __________________ Person or person's unknown.