? i never did. my bars came with the bumpy grip parts where they are supposed to be lined up with stock risers. mine did not match exact but nobody can see that. was about 1/2 inch towards center on each side. one thing you need to do is drill holes on the back side of bar on both sides for a pin that sticks into stock bar. which is located inside the signal and emergency housing. i think it's easier to just drill a hole rather than grind off the nubs in the housing cases. plus you'll get that extra stability. easier to drill if you first make a mark, then use center punch or drill bit and hammer a bit of a dent for bit to keep from "skating" around. hope this makes sense lol.
also might want to wrap electrical tape around the brake line L brackets coming out of the engine kill switch housing. will protect your tank a bit if you do forget and crank a right with bars. i hammered mine upward a bit to get more out of the way. still would like to get some nice chrome 6inch straight risers from Debrix when extra cash is kicking around.
__________________ Tom Poh @ Dreygunz Decalz Custom Stickers/ Banners
2006 silver *debadged* M50/ kury iso-grips ( with throttle boss, grip spikes, front & back pegs, clutch & brake covers)/ chrome accents (oil and brake cap)/ garmin Zumo 550 Gps/ Stock pipes (debaffled, demickey'd, blacked out header side)/ leather saddlebags & supports/ sissy bar & rack/ memphis fat 13" clear/ roadrunner cup holder/ HD fork pouch/ PC3/ 32" drag bar/ sidemount curved plate mount/ clear signals/ johnskit 3in lowering/ chrome rad cover/ Integrated signal back light kit/ removed OEM back signals and license housing/ Sickle Stem Lucifer Mirrors/ kury ultra tour bag/ JK's forward controls.
Coming soon: Hypercharger/ adaptor.
Last edited by dreygun; 09-07-2008 at 08:29 PM.
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