This is part 2 of how to rebaffle M50 stock pipes with fiberglass. See the accompanying post #1 (just above or below this post, depending on how your posting time/dates are set) for the first 5 steps.
Continued...
6. Find a piece of 2" PVC pipe that's about 8-10" long. It works better if you have some kind of flange or fitting on one end. I'll explain later.
Wow... I just happen to have a piece laying around...
7. Now you are going to roll the wire mesh a little tighter. Roll it nicely around the PVC pipe just like you did on the paint can.
8. Let it overlap about 1/2" and trim off the extra.
9. Now wrap your wire mesh around the PVC again and then wrap the fiberglass muffler packing around the wire mesh and trim it so that it looks like this:
The PVC pipe will not remain in the muffler. It is used only to mold the wire mesh shape and as a tool to help place the fiberglass and mesh in the exhaust.
10. While holding the fiberglass/wire mesh tightly around the PVC, slide it into the debaffled pipes.
11. Slide it in several inches. This is were the flange or fitting on the PVC pipe helps to slide the fiberglass,wire mesh in the exhaust pipe.
Once in, pull the PVC pipe out. The spring tension in the wire mesh presses outward against the fiberglass and holds it tightly in place. In the above pic, the fiberglass is slid about an inch so that the camera could capture it. Slide it in further than this though.
Now do the other pipe the same way.
Be sure to use the paint can then PVC to roll the wire mesh. If you go straight to the PVC it's more likely to bend the wire as you try to roll it. Don't skip this step.
This has made my debaffled pipes sound much better. The fiberglass absorbs the valve noises, air velocity noise and resonance of the pipes. Now I have a deeper growl that is just awesome. It costs about $10-15 dollars and works like a charm for me.