I did it last December, on a rental Road King. I was (still am) pretty much a beginner. I actually did it twice, once at night, under a clear sky and full moon. Was just great. Nightime wasn't really an issue as I was in second gear most of the time, and the road is so twisty that I wouldn't have been able to see any farther in the daytime anyway. Went again the next day. Biggest hazard was the knee draggers passing me, but I just took it easy and waved them past. Definitely will go back, though I'd avoid busy weekend/holiday days.
The popular loop trip goes down skyline scenic byway, which isn't so twisty, but has nice vistas.
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