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Old 06-19-2006, 11:02 PM   #1 (permalink)
C2W?
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Joined: Jan 2006
Bike: "Little" 6Fiddy
Location: Carlsbad (Not NM)
Posts: 127
Default 04 DL650. . . . . 2 Years & 22K later

It’s a few days past my 2 year 6Fiddy purchase anniversary. What strikes me the most in the last two years (after how much fun I have had) is the lack of having to “do stuff” to the bike beyond ride the crap out of it.

Yea I've adjusted the chain a few times & changed the oil & filter on a regular basis, threw some tires and an air filter and a chain at it and added the appropriate (for me) Farkles / necessities. Hell I even washed it a half a dozen or more times in two years.

But mostly I rode it whenever and wherever I felt like going. Pavement, Dirt, Gravel, Rain or Shine and unlike many of our geographically challenged members, year-round. Which, by the way, is why I bought it in the first place.

Based on my last Suzuki (T-500 Titan) I added to and supplemented the OE tool kit in the event of “breaking down” while riding. Wasted effort on my part. I bought some “spares” and on longer trips carried them with me. More wasted time on my part. The 6Fiddy is for riding, not fixing. People can postulate about “build quality” all they want. . . . Mine got screwed together correctly. Nothing has fallen off, nothing has gotten loose, nothing has failed........Nothing!

Idle is smooth, mileage is great, sufficient (as they say) power for the task(s) at hand. Comfortable for long trips or around town trips and cheap to keep.

Skill levels vary so much that I’m just not much into riding with groups....(no offense meant) and there is less than a handful of people I am really “comfortable” riding (at the pace I like) with or around. No problem for me and my trusty 6Fiddy. Never left me stranded (more than I can say for my K1100LT), never screwed me around.

Insert Key, pull clutch lever, push button Snick into gear and ZOOMZOOMZOOM! Isn’t that what it’s all about anyway? The riding! It is for me. Riding around town, riding in the foothills, the desert, the mountains. . . Wherever and whenever (as long as it’s not on a slab).

So there really isn’t much to tell in the way of “issues” or problems. Instead I’ll take a few minutes and go back over my changes to the bike and why.

IMPORTANT (To Me) STUFF I CHANGED or ADDED and WHY . . .

SEAT-Changed to a Gel Seat as the OE was only good for about 200 miles before level 3 monkey-butt set in. Would I like a custom fitted Corbin or Mayer, sure but to be honest for the $140 I spent (delivered to my door at that price) I really am very pleased with the seat. I have no problems doing 500+ mile day rides. I did have the opportunity to sit in Barry's (Bareman) custom seat during the Reno StromFest and started wondering what my 6Fiddy would feel like with a seat specifically tailored to my backside and riding position. Hmmmmmm.

WINDSCREEN-Changed to a WindStrom Manta within two or three months of the bike purchase. Based on the number of posts regarding windscreens I'd say I got real lucky first time out. The Manta in the lowest position and kicked out at the bottom 1/4" has proven to be perfect for my less than ergonomically perfect carcass. Not overly thrilled with the looks but the "utilitarian" side of my brain screams "IT WORKS. . . Just Shut Up and Ride the Dang Bike". I had a MP test unit on for a while (Thanks Devin & Paul) and found it to be every bit as good as the Manta (for me), but being the cheapscrew that I am I have put off buying one so that I don't have to find a place in the garage to store the Manta. Did the Manta change the way the bike feels in a strong cross-wind, yes a little bit but it's no better or worse than my K1100LT or other bikes I've owned and ridden. Actually the HT Panniers (mentioned later) helped with cross-winds "push". Having more sail area in the back of the bike even out the sail area (tupperware) in the front making the initial push more even. Without the HT's the initial push was always in the front.

TIRES-Had the bike delivered with the 607's installed and immediately took a "No-Slab" trip up the coast in the rain to Laguna Seca. The 607's proved to be less than formidable in the rain and when it came to telegraphing me their intentions at the limits of adhesion. So on went a set of 020 Bridgestones. I've ridden the 020s in a variety of different conditions including long days in driving rain and can't say enough good about them. I've gone thru 1.2 fronts and 3 rears in 22K miles. One of these days maybe I'll stop being lazy and try a set of the Michelin Pilot Roads for comparative purposes. I suspect I already know that I'm not going to be as happy with the front as I am with the 020 just based on the front tread design. I doubt seriously that the Michelin will be as precise on turn in and (again based on the tread design) not as effective in shedding water.

FRONT FORKS & SPRINGS-Changed to Wilburs progressive and thicker oil (I've tried a couple different viscosities so far). Better than OE by a big margin but I'm still finding that I have too much nosedive on really severe braking even with serious pre-load dialed in. I also added (recently) a Murph's forkbrace that made a dramatic improvement in the front end "feel" on rough, uneven, cobbly surfaces. I think I need to try a set of straight wound (constant rate) front springs. Thinking I'm gonna have to call Paul Thedes and talk to him about the front end before I do anything.

LUGGAGE-Marsee 15L expandable Teardrop Tankbag & Happy Trails Panniers. The Marsee tank bag is big enough to hold all my "gottaHave" stuff* plus my Nikon D70s without using the "expansion" capability (with all that "stuff" I'm hoping it helps the front/rear bias). And with the bike fully loaded and the rear pre-load set for the load (like it was for Reno) it doesn't handle too much different than without the luggage except when cranked way over at higher speeds. Takes a little getting used to but really not a big deal. I always thought that the aerodynamics of big square boxes on the side of the bike would slow it down more than it really does. I personally wouldn't want any wider bags (36" across if I remember correctly) than the 7.5 HTs. I might be tempted to cram more "stuff" in them. I use a series of smaller inner bags (appropriately packed hopefully) that are easy to extract at night if I don't need to de-mount the luggage. The HTs cost a "chunk" but IMO well worth the investment.

OTHER STUFF . . . Not so important but ride enhancing nonetheless.


REPLACEMENT HORN-Did a Griot's Red AirHorn install....Only had to use it a handful of times but each time it got the cager's attention before he could get me.

CHARGE SYSTEM INDICATOR-Forgot the brand but when the LED is steady green the system is functioning correctly. Boring.....It's always green!

THROTTLEMEISTER-Don't use it often (I try to stay off the slabs) but it's nice to have for those times you really need it.

MOTECH CENTER STAND-Had the stealer install it before I picked up the bike. Some people have issues with the MOTECH stand, not me. It doesn't drag leaned over, it works as a centerstand should and with the exception of a broken spring early on, it has been bulletproof. I've scraped it a few times off-road, no harm no foul.

SELF LOCKING REAR AXLE NUT-
Cause it works and it makes "spot on" rear wheel alignment easier.

BILLET OIL FILL PLUG-Cause plastic looks so "chintzy".

PENNYTECH PVC STORAGE TUBE-Great for Water, Maps, etc and fills that empty spot.

21W HALOGEN TURN SIGNAL BULBS-The stock bulbs with no reflector basically sucked visibility-wise. The 21W Halogen are noticeably brighter.

PHILLIPS VISION PLUS HEADLITE BULBS-As good as the Strom lights are, these are brighter, whiter and better.

STUFF I DIDN’T CHANGE (Yet) . . .

HANDLEBARS-I rotated them back and voila, they fit my ergonomically incorrect body perfect. I've never had any issues with handlebar vibration or hand numbing even on my longest rides.

REAR SHOCK-After some testing I found settings (rebound & spring preload) that "work for my style of riding. With my luck I'll change the front end per Paul and find the rear needs to be addressed.

BRAKE LINES-Just getting ready to order a Speigler set up as I need to change the brake fluid anyway.

BRAKE PADS-Probably find I am close to needing them when I do the brake lines.

MAINTENANCE

Little or none. Change the oil and filter every 2500-3000 miles (whatever is convenient). Check nuts and bolts every 5K miles. Checked the valves and the Throttle sync at 10K. Replaced the air filter at app. 10K. Adjusted the chain three times I think and finally replaced the chain at 18K.


*Tank Bag "Stuff"

Micro screwdriver set, Foldup scissors
Hanky, Motrin, Earplugs
Cordstops, Pen & Small Notebook
First Aid Kit, Insect repellent
Small hairbrush, Whistle & compass
Waterproof matches in case
Visine, Sunglasses, Sun screen
Reading glasses, Film can filled w/Quarters
$ 20 bill, Small Maglite, Spare Battery for Nikon
Copy of DL, Insurance, Registration
HandiWipes, Key # Tag, Spare Zen Batteries
Owners manual, 12V Female receptacle for Powerlet
Flashlite, yellow swivel head
Tinted Visor, Tire pressure gauge
Sunscreen, Side Stand Plate
Mosquito repellent, Chapstick


Now

Then


__________________
Experience is a hard teacher because the test is first, the lesson afterward.

Last edited by C2W?; 06-20-2006 at 12:31 AM.
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